Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone have any info on 1HZ Cam upgrades?

Thanx in advance!

Z()LTAN wrote:Anyone have any info on 1HZ Cam upgrades?

Thanx in advance!

I have never seen or heard of an off the shelf cam for one, but I have heard of a couple guys running high HP engines playing with them.

You could try advancing the timing a bit before you play around with the cam. Are you running a turbo?

planning on running a custom turbo setup, schwitzer or garrett t3, extractor manafold, custom intake manafold, custom 3" intake through POD filter into 4" snorkle with air ram.

Adjust fuel pump to suit, adjust boost compensator, run a boost controller with 13 psi standard and 15 psi overboost

Z()LTAN wrote:planning on running a custom turbo setup, schwitzer or garrett t3, extractor manafold, custom intake manafold, custom 3" intake through POD filter into 4" snorkle with air ram.

Adjust fuel pump to suit, adjust boost compensator, run a boost controller with 13 psi standard and 15 psi overboost

Why...r u trying to keep up to a std hdft?

dow50r wrote:

Z()LTAN wrote:planning on running a custom turbo setup, schwitzer or garrett t3, extractor manafold, custom intake manafold, custom 3" intake through POD filter into 4" snorkle with air ram.

Adjust fuel pump to suit, adjust boost compensator, run a boost controller with 13 psi standard and 15 psi overboost

Why...r u trying to keep up to a std hdft?

yeh, indirect injection is gonna klill you. Would be better to start with a 1HDFT block if yiou wanna make big power and your gonna spend that sorta cash.

wont cost me all that much as im manufacturing it all myself, the turbo itself and the dyno is all ill have to pay for... I already have a 1hz with 5k on the clock... perfect candidate... can never get a hdft for what i payed

Z()LTAN wrote:wont cost me all that much as im manufacturing it all myself, the turbo itself and the dyno is all ill have to pay for... I already have a 1hz with 5k on the clock... perfect candidate... can never get a hdft for what i payed

Your 1HZ-B won't like the sort of grunt I think you're talking about.

You could also look at the 1HD-T camshaft.

Shadow wrote:You could try advancing the timing a bit

is this left only for professionals or some mechanically minded person can do it?

ulises

udm wrote:

Shadow wrote:You could try advancing the timing a bit

is this left only for professionals or some mechanically minded person can do it?

ulises

If you know how to set the timing, you can advance it.

You really need to be careful though as it can cause your EGT's to skyrocket if you go to far. If you have a pyro, and watch the black smoke(unburnt fuel) out the back of your vehicle (to detect when youve gone too far) then you can advance the timing quite comfortably.

Theres really not much point advancing the timing on a turbo-less engine tho. YOu will get more power but it will cost you some economy.

Shadow wrote:

udm wrote:

Shadow wrote:You could try advancing the timing a bit

is this left only for professionals or some mechanically minded person can do it?

ulises

If you know how to set the timing, you can advance it.

You really need to be careful though as it can cause your EGT's to skyrocket if you go to far. If you have a pyro, and watch the black smoke(unburnt fuel) out the back of your vehicle (to detect when youve gone too far) then you can advance the timing quite comfortably.

Theres really not much point advancing the timing on a turbo-less engine tho. YOu will get more power but it will cost you some economy.

its a turboed 1hz, with pyro and boost gauges... so, you got any tips on how to play with the timing?

Ulissis
The bible has a measurement that you set the timing to with a dial gauge.

dow50r wrote:Ulissis
The bible has a measurement that you set the timing to with a dial gauge.

thanks andrew... off i go to checkout the bible ...

Z()LTAN wrote:planning on running a custom turbo setup, schwitzer or garrett t3, extractor manafold, custom intake manafold, custom 3" intake through POD filter into 4" snorkle with air ram.

Adjust fuel pump to suit, adjust boost compensator, run a boost controller with 13 psi standard and 15 psi overboost

extractor manifold is a waste of time, a 1HZ will never flow enough air for the benefit of an extractor manifold to show. It will probably make a measurable difference on the dyno but it is a lot of fabrication hassle to go to when all you really need to build is a 30mm adaptor with your turbo flance on one end and the standard manifold triangular flange on the other end.

the factory intake manifold is sufficient and has a 3" inlet.

pod filter is a waste of time and money, the factory filter and housing are excellent, use them. they are the same as for the factory turbo motors.

boost compensator is a LOT of $ to fit to your pump, you are better off looking for a 1HD-(F)T pump (or indeed a whole motor) if you plan to run that kind of boost. you will hit the indirect injection wall around 10 -11 psi, any more boost on a 1HZ tends to push the EGT's without releasing much more power - stuffing all that air through the tinly little precombustion chamber orifice generated a lot of heat. intercooling helps but the wall is still there. note that your fuel pump may be fitted with a high altitude compensator but that is NOT the same as a boost compensator.

you can custom turbo and make sensible power out of a 1HZ but the money and time you are talking about spending are not warranted on that engine. a quick, short adaptor off the stock manifold, feeding a fairly small turbo and boosting around 9 - 10psi makes a good whack of power especially for a lightweight 75 series cab/chassis.

cheers

DD

1hz-b???



Uhh your all such party poopers... Ya all need to try harder

Z()LTAN wrote:1hz-b???

I believe he be referring to the newer 1HZ engines with EGR and lighter pistons, that can not cope with boost as well as the earlier examples of the engine.

Z()LTAN wrote: Uhh your all such party poopers... Ya all need to try harder

everyone who has posted in reply has considerable knowledge and/or experience with these engines and squeezeing more power out of them. the reason forums like this exist is for the sharing of that knowledge! what you do with it is up to you.

I built a 1HZ in a 93 80, BB turbo, pump, aneroid 160 rwkw at 22 psi, big front mount, balanced engine and turbo pistons. 2nd Vic winch 05 4th Ateco 06.

Lasted 2 years and died due to sucking in oil up the crackcase breater, since rectified, a 1 HZ issue. Bearings were as new, bores were as new, pistons and rods us due to 8000 rpm having to be stalled running on oil.
If anyone want to know how to stop this oil issue PM me.
Joel

Zol the 1hz is a limo motor, but its hard to get them to produce lots of power due to their design in the head and piston. For a comparison, a 1hdt was bought by a lister herethe othr day for 4000 out of a running cruiser... a bigger turbo and intercooler can be bought off the shelf by safari, and will have it producing lots of power and torque without too much heat. Your motor as it sits is worth 2k...which would buy most of that...so its a bit like...do u wack a turbo on a 202 or buy an rb30et from a turbo vl running for $1500 and bolt that in....which is better...the motor that engineers have engineered to run a turbo, or the one you can build using alot of trial and error.

udm wrote:

dow50r wrote:Ulissis
The bible has a measurement that you set the timing to with a dial gauge.

thanks andrew... off i go to checkout the bible ...

Not sure what a 1hz is set at, but just did mine (hdft) and it was 1.37-1.43mm at TDC..now 1.43 is fully advanced spec, and im not sure if i could have set it further advanced...but to give you an idea....at 1.43, i was half a line away from being spot on...so it isnt much adjustment
Andrew

dow50r wrote:Zol the 1hz is a limo motor, but its hard to get them to produce lots of power due to their design in the head and piston. For a comparison, a 1hdt was bought by a lister herethe othr day for 4000 out of a running cruiser... a bigger turbo and intercooler can be bought off the shelf by safari, and will have it producing lots of power and torque without too much heat. Your motor as it sits is worth 2k...which would buy most of that...so its a bit like...do u wack a turbo on a 202 or buy an rb30et from a turbo vl running for $1500 and bolt that in....which is better...the motor that engineers have engineered to run a turbo, or the one you can build using alot of trial and error.

Have been tossing up between a factory TD and turboing a standard 1HZ for a while now. Would prefer the standard's live front axle. How hard is it to put the 1HD-FTE into a standard 100 series? Are many/any mods required to the standard's (manual) driveline? What else must be swapped across from the factory turbo vehicle for it to run in the standard?

Thanks in advance.

Z()LTAN wrote:1hz-b???

Uhh your all such party poopers... Ya all need to try harder

I believe the 1HZ's fitted with the EGR and TPS were called the 1HZ-B.

Well we can be party poopers, but you asked for the advice. Obviously you're into big but short lived parties?

PGS 4WD wrote:I built a 1HZ in a 93 80, BB turbo, pump, aneroid 160 rwkw at 22 psi, big front mount, balanced engine and turbo pistons. 2nd Vic winch 05 4th Ateco 06.

Lasted 2 years and died due to sucking in oil up the crackcase breater, since rectified, a 1 HZ issue. Bearings were as new, bores were as new, pistons and rods us due to 8000 rpm having to be stalled running on oil.
If anyone want to know how to stop this oil issue PM me.
Joel

Joel, would you have been at the 2nd 4x4 comp held at the Thunderdome by any chance? I remember seeing a grunty 1HZ there.

How did you run turbo pistons in the IDI 1HZ?

Dak Dak wrote:How hard is it to put the 1HD-FTE into a standard 100 series? Are many/any mods required to the standard's (manual) driveline? What else must be swapped across from the factory turbo vehicle for it to run in the standard?

Thanks in advance.

Physically it will fit, you need to change the 5 speed (and thus t/case too), and you'll need a sh*t load of wiring, sensors and electronics.

hdj105 wrote:
Physically it will fit, you need to change the 5 speed (and thus t/case too), and you'll need a sh*t load of wiring, sensors and electronics.

I new it sounded to easy! Was wondering why I hadn't heard of people doing it. I guess you'd need to transfer fuel pump etc over too. Would be rather $$$ and would be opening up a can of worms.

The other option is to buy a factory turbo and have the front end converted to live axle. I've heard Cheezy has done this on a few cruiser IFS's using an 80 series axle. Much cheaper option.

Dak Dak wrote:

hdj105 wrote:
Physically it will fit, you need to change the 5 speed (and thus t/case too), and you'll need a sh*t load of wiring, sensors and electronics.

I new it sounded to easy! Was wondering why I hadn't heard of people doing it. I guess you'd need to transfer fuel pump etc over too. Would be rather $$$ and would be opening up a can of worms.

The other option is to buy a factory turbo and have the front end converted to live axle. I've heard Cheezy has done this on a few cruiser IFS's using an 80 series axle. Much cheaper option.

Why use an 80series front axle, when you can get a 100 series.. and not have to run 2 different rim types

+dj_hansen+ wrote:

Dak Dak wrote:

hdj105 wrote:
Physically it will fit, you need to change the 5 speed (and thus t/case too), and you'll need a sh*t load of wiring, sensors and electronics.

I new it sounded to easy! Was wondering why I hadn't heard of people doing it. I guess you'd need to transfer fuel pump etc over too. Would be rather $$$ and would be opening up a can of worms.

The other option is to buy a factory turbo and have the front end converted to live axle. I've heard Cheezy has done this on a few cruiser IFS's using an 80 series axle. Much cheaper option.

Why use an 80series front axle, when you can get a 100 series.. and not have to run 2 different rim types

they are virtually the same AFAIK, 80 series would be cheaper, and you can fit 100series hubs to take the 5 stud rims.

Shadow wrote:

+dj_hansen+ wrote:

Dak Dak wrote:

hdj105 wrote:
Physically it will fit, you need to change the 5 speed (and thus t/case too), and you'll need a sh*t load of wiring, sensors and electronics.

I new it sounded to easy! Was wondering why I hadn't heard of people doing it. I guess you'd need to transfer fuel pump etc over too. Would be rather $$$ and would be opening up a can of worms.

The other option is to buy a factory turbo and have the front end converted to live axle. I've heard Cheezy has done this on a few cruiser IFS's using an 80 series axle. Much cheaper option.

Why use an 80series front axle, when you can get a 100 series.. and not have to run 2 different rim types

they are virtually the same AFAIK, 80 series would be cheaper, and you can fit 100series hubs to take the 5 stud rims.

the 80 series runs thesame ratio as the factory turbo, and there are 50 to every 1 100 diff...so only the hubs/discs/callipers need swapping.
There would be some magic fabrications going on....the chassis is different rfs to ifs 100

dow50r wrote:
the 80 series runs thesame ratio as the factory turbo, and there are 50 to every 1 100 diff...so only the hubs/discs/callipers need swapping.
There would be some magic fabrications going on....the chassis is different rfs to ifs 100

Yes, he said there was a bit involved to fabricate the mounting points. Still seemed a reasonably priced option to me.

So dow50r, the hubs/discs/callipers from the original factory TD IF can be swapped straight over onto the 80 series front no worries?