Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I just finished bleeding my brakes on my HJ60...again! The first push of the peddle is soft, then on the second the pressure is there and brakes work great.

This tells me there is still air in the line somewhere...correct?

In the manual it says something about bleeding the brake proportioning valve (which is located above the rear diff) but I cant find it. I have followed the brake lines from front to back and there is no such thing.

I have done all four corners (even though I only cracked the two front calipers).

Is it a case of just keep going until you get it right (never had this much drama doing it before)...or am I missing something.

I use the tube into a bottle of fluid technique when bleeding brakes, just so you know.

Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Mate , generally having to push brake pedal twice and the brakes works means your rear drums are not adjusted correctly and by pressing twice forces to shoes to touch drum. But if you didn,t touch the rear as it is a seperate system , you might have drained master cylinder and have to bleed it. When disconnecting brakes most , not all have a rubber lines betwween body and chassis , so youy clamp it lightly enough to stop fluid coming out so that the master cylinder doesn't empty. Did you gravity bleed the brakes by opening the bleeder nipple until fluid run out. Then close nipple , pump up brakes 3 to 4 times , then hold peddle , open and close nipple before pedal bottoms. Continue doing this until you are happy that there is no air in line , but don't let master cylinder run dry. Some callipers are not correctly orientated to allw all the air to be pushed out durin bleeding , especially rear disc brake conversions , so sometimes the calliper has to be loosened and orientated on the disc to allow bleeder to be at the top , then bled. Also a indicating factor that your rear shoes are not adjusted is the handbrake can be pulled out to maximum indicating worn or non adjusted shoes. There is one more thing that could be wrong and that is your master cylinder could be buggered , hope this helps , Cheers Paul.

hi bud.

usually i start from the shortest route from the front the to the other side, then proportioning valve then to the shortest route on the rear then the last line..


sorry i cant tell you if there is or where the proportioning valve is on a 60

G_loomis wrote:I just finished bleeding my brakes on my HJ60...again! The first push of the peddle is soft, then on the second the pressure is there and brakes work great.

This tells me there is still air in the line somewhere...correct?

In the manual it says something about bleeding the brake proportioning valve (which is located above the rear diff) but I cant find it. I have followed the brake lines from front to back and there is no such thing.

I have done all four corners (even though I only cracked the two front calipers).

Is it a case of just keep going until you get it right (never had this much drama doing it before)...or am I missing something.

I use the tube into a bottle of fluid technique when bleeding brakes, just so you know.

Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.

It could be your shoes /pads are past the wear thicknesses , requireing
the second pump to achieve enough fliud to ground them .

Make sure the drums are adjusted right , You might be able to do this just by hitting the brakes in reverse gear a few times , Depends on there design-

My Truck an Isuzu npr400 Turbo , AUTO goes thru brakes at an alarming rate when they are out of adjustment it takes two pumps to move the shoes to ground . This is a fortnightly adjustment for it !

Goodluck !

I just bled the brakes again....and pumped enough fluid through them to garauntee that there is no air in the system. The system is airtight (done a few tests that are mentioned in the manual) so I am leading towards the rear shoes.

I have had the truck for about 5 years now, and in that time the back brakes have never been adjusted/replaced. So its probably about time that they are looked at.

Flicking through the manual now to see if its an easy job, or one that can wait till I have more time.

I had a look at one of the rears, and the shoes are well and truely worn. In some places they are alright, but others are down to pretty much nothing.

So this would cause the sloppy feel, with the 2nd push of the peddle bringing good pressure?!?!

drum shoes will cost ya less than 50 bucks and will take you an hour or so to replace.. may as well do it sooner than later mate.
no leaks from wheel cylinders? i replaced my wheel cylinders and shoes all at once was easier once in there.

smileysmoke wrote:drum shoes will cost ya less than 50 bucks and will take you an hour or so to replace.. may as well do it sooner than later mate.
no leaks from wheel cylinders? i replaced my wheel cylinders and shoes all at once was easier once in there.

Will do them as soon as I have the time to do so...have a hectic week coming up, so it looks like its a next weekend job, or under lights job!

No leaks from the cylinders, but I like your theory about it being ewasier to do it that way.

AFAIK you bled the furtherest point first then work to the shortest!
I may be wrong tho
Cheers!

sounds like some one needs a disc brake conversion

giantracing wrote:sounds like some one needs a disc brake conversion

Problem solvered!

After searching through OL last night (when I had the time) I came out with a few solutions that may fix the problem. The first one I tried, was the one that fixed it.

Turns out that the wheel bearings were a little loose...not alot...but obviously just enough to make the rotor wobble around and push the brake caloper pistons out.

So thanks to OL for solving something that was causing me more problems then my ex wife.

P.S Could OL help me with the problems associated with my ex wife.

Gladly