GQ v8 wiring trouble

[Ryan]

Ok, see if any of you wiring techs can work this one out, car is a GQ patrol, ex 4.2 petrol, now has injected 5.0 v8, all worked well as far as guages etc, cab was removed and ute chopped then fitted to a wagon chassis (no wiring mods) everything i un plugged got re plugged, everything i cut was re joined & soldered. now the problem -

Turn ignition to "reds" and nothing happens, battery guage stays on 0 no warning lights come on. Start the engine, the reds on the dash come on very dull and stay this way, battery guage still does not work, nor does the temp or oil press, have checked all obvious things such as broken wires, fuses etc and cant find the problem,

i'm hoping someone out there has this same engine conversion and maybe has had this problem along the line somewhere?? if it helps at all its a marks conversion kit but as i said it all worked b4 the cab swap.

its driving me insane so any suggestions welcome

Cheers

Ryan

[MART]

Are all the earth's in place , Cheers Paul.

[Rhysta]

There is one black wire that comes strate of the postive battery terminal, if its unplugged the dash dont work, Might be loose or somehting playing up with that?

Keep us posted, as im doing this swap real soon too.

[Ryan]

Cheers for the replys guys, still having no luck but i've got most of the weekend to fiddle with wires so hopefully i can nut it out, will let you know if i have any luck

Cheers

Ryan

[Woop]

Are you using the original Nissan Alternator in the conversion? When you turn the key, check that you are getting battery Voltage at the 2 pin connector at the back of the Alternator-the wire white and Red tracer. Also remove the instrument cluster, and locate the connectors that plug into the back of the instrument cluster. On one of those connectors, there should be a yellow wire with a red tracer--this supplies volts to the warning lamps and meters and the Alternator when the ignition is switched on. It ends up back at the fuse box at one of the ignition switched fuses... iF you have no volts here, then none of the gauges will work or Alternator will charge.

Nick

[Rhysta]

Are you using the original Nissan Alternator in the conversion? When you turn the key, check that you are getting battery Voltage at the 2 pin connector at the back of the Alternator-the wire white and Red tracer. Also remove the instrument cluster, and locate the connectors that plug into the back of the instrument cluster. On one of those connectors, there should be a yellow wire with a red tracer--this supplies volts to the warning lamps and meters and the Alternator when the ignition is switched on. It ends up back at the fuse box at one of the ignition switched fuses... iF you have no volts here, then none of the gauges will work or Alternator will charge.

Nick

My alternator charges with out that plugged in..

Given its still on a nissan motor, same alternator but..

Im keen to see where you have gone wrong.. with the wiring or what it is that is playing up.

MY swap is slowing getting there, I have a motor now

[AC]

Hi ryan,
I am still trying to finish off a 5.0efi/t700 conversion with marks adapter, but I am not having the same issues as yourself, mine are more to do with the transmission wiring.

The fact that you have previously had it working before the chop I would definietly be lookig at the Main earth connection and possibly adding another for best measure.

I am assumin that no welding was done On the car with the ECU connected up to the battery? just wondering whether it may be an ECU problem, I am not an elec but I did have a glitch something simial and had to get the ECU checked, came back fine and just worked

Alan

[AC]

Ryan just one other thing totally off topic

what suspension are you running with your conversion?

I think I may have dented the sump on the axle the other day when it came down quite hard and I only am running 30mm body and 1.5 over standard(soon to be increased)

not really sure if it was the diff or a rock at toolangi

Alan

[Ryan]

sorry for late reply i've been offline for a while, still no luck with wiring, but thanks for the reply woop ill trace the wires you mentioned and get back to you asap this week. the alt is a holden alt, it came with the motor, and appeares to be charging but ill double check everything once i get back in the shed.
i was also thinking it might be an ecu issue, as there was welding done on the car, battery disconnected but the computer was still in the car, could this be the main cause for my 5 months of headache ?? lol i hope it is as a simple fix would be great !!

AC - to fix ur sump problem you need a rear sump i think they are called. the pickup is at the bellhousing end instead of the front, then it will clear ur diff


Cheers
Ryan

[Offroad-Events]

Sounds like there's an inline fuse gone. These look like standard wires and connect directly to the battery and the wiring loom. You can't see them gone looking at them. These little bastards are about 15cm long, so take your multimeter and see if you get 12V about 20cm behind the battery on ALL positive connected wires.

[Ryan]

will do mate ill have a go at it tomorrow after work and let you know if i have any success. theres a 6pk waiting for whoever has the winning answer lol

[SLOGQ]

Just a thought for you mate, did you use the orignal Alternator power wire (the one to the battery) or did you make your own?

The dash lights ect. seem to get their feed from the alt power wire, i found this out when i blew the fusable link for the alt power wire a few weeks ago.......

Its a big black wire comin from the positive battery terminal, the fusable link is only about 2 inches long max, with big spade terminals at each end.....

[chimpboy]

For what it's worth, I would say it is MUCH more likely to turn out to be a fuse or a bad connection somewhere (missing earth etc) than to be anything to do with the welding.

[Ryan]

hmm. seems i solved it
spent from 6am sunday in the shed, re wired the whole engine bay and 90% of the dash wiring.. pulled apart and cleaned alternator etc still with no luck. then i started from scratch again checking everything from start to finish, first thing i checked was the fuse box. found the fuse that does the dash (meter/reverse light 10amp) was blown..................... put a new fuse in, hit the key and it all works.. lol
am positive i checked this the first time but i guess i overlooked it.
pain in the a$$ but at least now i have all new wiring