Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys just a quick question.....I am looking to get one of those air filters that you don't ever have to replace....What do you all recommend? I am looking at getting a K & N..

yeah go the K&N. Quality product. Just do a search on this forum for advice on fitting and brackets and what not. There are photos around of the mounting brackets etc.

Heath28 wrote:yeah go the K&N. Quality product. Just do a search on this forum for advice on fitting and brackets and what not. There are photos around of the mounting brackets etc.

Ok you can all call me stupid if you want after what I am about to ask...I don't mind.....Wouldn't the new filter just go in and replace the old one? Why would I have to be fitting brackets etc?

You are right QLDGAL, the new filter would go in place of the current one, unless they don't make one for the Feroza application, in which case you would need to go with a 'ram' style of filter (filters are conical shaped) and these require additional plumbing (ususally in the kit) and bracketry.

You've got the choice of either for the Feroza. A "drop in" factory replacement is made to suit the canister, plus a ram pod style filter can be fitted to the end of the inlet ducting.

The pod filter should give a more noticeable power gain.

Some related posts:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=1316

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=1569

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=4811

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... air+filter

Well I have the drop in K & N Filter. It is a noticeable improvement in power but then decided I would remove the hose that goes from the top of the filter box towards the front, behind the headlight and more power yet again. When I go off road I just put it back on to avoid too many nasties going in but it is much better that way.

Hope that helps but I believe the pod filter gives the best power increase.

QLDGAL wrote:

Heath28 wrote:yeah go the K&N. Quality product. Just do a search on this forum for advice on fitting and brackets and what not. There are photos around of the mounting brackets etc.

Ok you can all call me stupid if you want after what I am about to ask...I don't mind.....Wouldn't the new filter just go in and replace the old one? Why would I have to be fitting brackets etc?

Ohh sorry, I was relating to the RAM type filter. I would recommend going that option if your not putting in a snorkel (there is none commercially available for the Feroza, so a custom one needs to be made). Power gain is noticeale, and the induction noise is quite good too!!

I am selling mine, so I put a cheap RAM type filter on mine. Have to fab brackets and some piping to get it to fit.

FerociousFeroza wrote:Well I have the drop in K & N Filter. It is a noticeable improvement in power but then decided I would remove the hose that goes from the top of the filter box towards the front, behind the headlight and more power yet again. When I go off road I just put it back on to avoid too many nasties going in but it is much better that way.

Hope that helps but I believe the pod filter gives the best power increase.

Never happens unless you go deep water crossings, in which case regardless of where it is, you screwed. I had mine this way for years adn never had a problem.

Also, a nice way of getting induction noise is to simply remove the rear casing (the bit that is clipped in). Air flow is through the filter.

Heath28 wrote:Also, a nice way of getting induction noise is to simply remove the rear casing (the bit that is clipped in). Air flow is through the filter.

Hmmmm...... guess what I'm going to do when I get home tonight!!!!!!!!!

It is possible to fit the K&N pod filter without making a bracket up:

murcod wrote:It is possible to fit the K&N pod filter without making a bracket up:

woudl one of these be easy for someone like myself to put in?????

Anyone who can deftly wield a socket set should be able to do it in under fifteen minutes.

Compare the pic to your current under bonnet set up (ignore the dual battery set up). You need to remove the bolt that secures the air intake pipe to the support panel that runs along the top of the radiator (10mm bolt). Then undo the hose clamp on the flexible rubber hose that goes to the air filter canister outlet on the engine side (10mm socket again from memory). Then there are three 12mm bolts that secure the air filter canister to the body of the vehicle. Two are a bit hard to get to on the engine side and require a long socket extension to get access to them.

Once they're undone you should be able to lift the whole canister assembly out and be just left with the pipe work shown in the pic. Simply slide the K&N on the end of the pipe (it's a tight fit) and do up the hose clamp.

murcod wrote:Anyone who can deftly wield a socket set should be able to do it in under fifteen minutes.

Compare the pic to your current under bonnet set up (ignore the dual battery set up). You need to remove the bolt that secures the air intake pipe to the support panel that runs along the top of the radiator (10mm bolt). Then undo the hose clamp on the flexible rubber hose that goes to the air filter canister outlet on the engine side (10mm socket again from memory). Then there are three 12mm bolts that secure the air filter canister to the body of the vehicle. Two are a bit hard to get to on the engine side and require a long socket extension to get access to them.

Once they're undone you should be able to lift the whole canister assembly out and be just left with the pipe work shown in the pic. Simply slide the K&N on the end of the pipe (it's a tight fit) and do up the hose clamp.

In other words QLDGal... print this out, put 6 beers in the fridge, get your friend over for lunch with her husband and point him towards the car...

That's what my wife's friends do....

No, do it yourself. If you're keen, give it a go- it's the best way to learn.

You shouldn't have any problems if you've got a metric socket set. If you haven't got a longish socket extension you could probably do it by reaching down next to the exhaust manifold- things will just be a bit tight. And wait for the engine to cool. I use a 1/4" socket set to fit/ remove mine, but you will need a bigger set (3/8 or 1/2") to initially loosen the bolts that secure the canister to the body if they haven't been undone for a while.

Just print out the pic of mine so you know what bits you need to remove/ leave and you'll be fine. Don't be afraid to remove any extra inlet piping for better access to the bolts if you need to.

The part number for the filter is R-1380 and it should cost you around $80. It comes pre oiled ready to fit and complete with a hose clamp.

Go to it! We're here to help if you get stuck.

While you are on the topic - MRT rampod is illegal? what about the K&N rampod set up?
I put the MRT rampod on mine and I love it, slight increase in power, nice induction noise, but it is not legal in N.S.W?

Yes, I think they're illegal in most states.

I wouldn't be too concerned- you're more likely to get pinged for more visible things like oversize tyres etc. It's very easy to change the filter back to original if you ever need to get the vehicle inspected.

Can someone tell us why they are illegal? The only thing i can find on this is from Qld Vehicle Modifications booklet which says "Multiple and/or replacement carburettors may be fitted to
any motor vehicle provided the vehicle continues to comply
with the emission requirements of the Australian Design
Rules applicable at the time of the vehicle’s manufacture."

In SA I think it's got something to do with not modifying the inlet tract on post "some date" vehicles.

Most likely to do with noise pollution?

Can pick em up online at Autospeed.
http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?ecomsvr=&category=1750&product=1003142062


Ryan

The price looks good at $73.77 until the freight of $7 gets added on!

When I bought mine I was told the RRP is $82- so anything under that is a bonus.

It's also available on line here:

http://www.buy-asap.com/category147_3.htm#2639 price is $71.50 and freight looks like around $4.00 for Parcel Post Aus wide.

The part number for the drop in filter is KN38-9109 too.

murcod wrote:In SA I think it's got something to do with not modifying the inlet tract on post "some date" vehicles.

Most likely to do with noise pollution?

It's a noise pollution thing.... and I took the back lid off my filter box last night... sounds like a snooring buldog... iI love it...

So are there any noticeable power gains Paul?

I've found my K&N pod seems to give more top end power, but I'm a bit suspicious as to if there have been losses at lower revs(?)

murcod wrote:So are there any noticeable power gains Paul?

I've found my K&N pod seems to give more top end power, but I'm a bit suspicious as to if there have been losses at lower revs(?)

Definately more power at higher revs... as for the bottom end of the scale there's a bit of an increase but not as noticeable as at the top end. But there's been no loss in power. I am running 31's though and its always a bit sluggish off the mark.


On a different note I have discovered that Ferocious has a thermal fan fitted. Neat little unit in front of the radiator behind the grill. Was this standard perhaps with air con models??????

i dont know if they are standard.. but they prolly come with the ar con... jus a guess... cuz i have one! lol

The small electric thermo in front of the radiator is standard on aircon equipped Ferozas. It's to cool the aircon condensor.

Well that sort that out then....

FerociousFeroza wrote:

murcod wrote:So are there any noticeable power gains Paul?

I've found my K&N pod seems to give more top end power, but I'm a bit suspicious as to if there have been losses at lower revs(?)

Definately more power at higher revs... as for the bottom end of the scale there's a bit of an increase but not as noticeable as at the top end. But there's been no loss in power. I am running 31's though and its always a bit sluggish off the mark.


On a different note I have discovered that Ferocious has a thermal fan fitted. Neat little unit in front of the radiator behind the grill. Was this standard perhaps with air con models??????

Hmmmmmm maybe i should remove the cover on mine and test it out seing that i've got the standard tyres on it atm

I've got a group N unifilter air filter in my beast. It's a drop in replacement filter and totaly reusable
I bought it off MRT for around $60-70 from memory

This mod is a must do to any injected Feroza. I know it looks a bit of a bodge job but the gain in power, torque and revs more than make up for its ugly looks! Its just a bit of 3" ally pipe with 45 degree bend in it that tapers down to 2 1/4" where the rubber flex joint fits. Top it of with a $30 filter from KB Auto and the jobs a good'un. Now my 'Roza pulls hard to about 6000rpm! And you get old style MK1 Escort rally car induction noise!

Looking at all the pics I thought this way would have been one of the best as it gets rid of all the unnecesary piping. Would give the best results for power, if you were worried about water you could still use the stock filter but remove the chamber that sits over the engine and go straight to the throttle body couldn't you?

Snake