Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok so how do u wire the relay into the spotlights with the switch

can some one fill in the wires for me please

thanks
Luke

Hopefully the pic works. This is only going from memory on what the pins on the relays are too.

H/B = High Beam
Pk/Lt = parking lights
GND = ground (earth)
cct = circuit

cheers dood i'll have a crack at it tomorrow

yea, looks right, i dunno the numbers though?

im used to using 5 pinned relays..

but yea, if your numbers are correct so is the rest

Don't forget the fuse !

theres a fuse in the relay

cheers ..

i was just looking at it ... we want to switch the lights seperately from the high beam is that gonna work?

Show me, ive never seen one.

i don't have a digital

Kev get MSN

Terrafirma wrote:theres a fuse in the relay

Yes but note that you want a fuse as close as possible to the battery. If it's too far away, then a collision could lead to a short from the battery to the unfused wire.

This is considered bad. Things can catch fire.

Jason

if you connect the switchin wire to say the accessories instead of the high beam switch they will work as long as you have the key in the ACC position,

but do remember, if left on, youll be leaft with a dead battery

Shawn

Terrafirma wrote:i was just looking at it ... we want to switch the lights seperately from the high beam is that gonna work?

Run the other side of the switch to any +12V source you like. It can be something that's always on like the lighter, something that's on with accessories like the radio, or something that's on with ignition like... I dunno, something. All it's doing is tripping the relay so it won't be drawing significant current.



Technically I believe you're not meant to be able to switch on spotties without the headlights on already, however there's no electrical reason why you can't if you want to.

Jason

the easiest way to hook spot lits up witjh the h/b on is to tap into the hb behind the light and run to the relay and then the switch and eart it out beats looking around you steering colom for the h/b

Your better off keeping it legal by leaving it swiched to the high beam.

The last thing you want is to be fumbling looking for the spottie switch on the dash when a car is coming towards you.

Your fumbling & there blindness may contribute to a head on ect.

Its illegal for a reason !

Kev80 wrote:Your better off keeping it legal by leaving it swiched to the high beam.

The last thing you want is to be fumbling looking for the spottie switch on the dash when a car is coming towards you.

Your fumbling & there blindness may contribute to a head on ect.

Its illegal for a reason !

I don't disagree, but I didn't think the rule was tied to high beam, I just thought it was tied to headlights. I used the stock wiring on my other car and the spotlights can be activated alongside low or high.

Maybe that's wrong. Anyone know for sure?

Jason

The spotties should only be wired to come on with high beam, and also by law, must have a on/off switch inside the cabin too.

Here you go.

Trigger wire from headlamp to switch/switch to relay (85) can be 5amp cable, cable from battery/positive source/fuse/relay (30) must be 20amp or over (for 100w spots, 15amp for 55w driving lights) with matching fuse - get a blade fuse holder, the cheaps glass fuse holders are unreliable, have a tendency to overheat the contacts, melt the solder, and melt the plastic housing. Cable from relay (87) to spots can be the same 20 amp cable (or run them split - two cables from '87' can be 10amp each), relay earth (86) can be 5amp black, spotlight earth 10amp.

Added some additional features, which I feel are of some importance.

Thanks for looking.

bj on roids wrote:Added some additional features, which I feel are of some importance.

Thanks for looking.

BJ u have far to much time on ur hands ... HAHAHAHAHAHAHA


nice ...

area54 your right but if you your going to get your swtich power from behind the light to save wire and make it easier you go straight to the relay then to the switch and then to earth. makes it easier than runnig a wire up to the dash then back out to the engine bay again

Terrafirma wrote:i don't have a digital

Don't you have a one of them phone cameras ???:finger:

Terrafirma wrote:Kev get MSN

Why ???

phwoar ... i do have a phone camera! fancy that ... hahaha



so u can be cool like the rest of us

Why not put in a on/off/on switch then you can have the lights so that they go on/off with high beam or if in the other on postion they are on all the time.


with a on/off/on switch just run the centre pin to the relay then run one of the other pins to the highbeam then run the other pin to the battery.

Ruggers wrote:area54 your right but if you your going to get your swtich power from behind the light to save wire and make it easier you go straight to the relay then to the switch and then to earth. makes it easier than runnig a wire up to the dash then back out to the engine bay again

you only need one wire if your feed is from the dash.
if you were to run it from behind the headlight youd need to run 2 wires. one going to the switch, then one returning to the relay.
but if you wanna do it that way use figure 8 flex (speaker cable), coz you only have to run one wire with 2 cores. the switch doesnt need big wire coz its only drawing a tiny amount of current to pull the contactor in the relay.

Terrafirma wrote:so u can be cool like the rest of us

Whats cooler than being cool.......ice cold !

Find out if your headlamps are negative or positive switching cos it makes a difference to how the relay is wired.....

Area54.. can u tap into the existing earth in the headlight loom for the relay earth? or run a seperate earth wire directly to the chassis earth from the battery?

ahhhh
chunkz is so confused

i have:
1 x 4 pin relay with 30, 85, 86, 87
1 x on/off switch (light up one)
2 x spotties
1 x bullbar

i want:
i want to be able to turn the spotties on and off but only when the high beams are on....
can some one please tell me in dumb person terms where each wire on the relay goes...
and on the switch i have 3 pins...
gound/acc/power
where does each pin from that go...

well cheers
please remember in dumb person terms


p.s sorry for bringing up an old topic.... a very old topic

here are 2 drawings one for when you have positive switched headlights and one for when you have negative.

hope you know which one you have?

these drawings are drawn so you can turn on your driving lights without having your lights on so all you have to do is change where the 12v goes to the switch and change that with ground that is connected to the ground on the switch which is the -ve for the light in the switchn


Cheers
Simon

Wire Attachments Removed due to copyright infrigement.
Cheers - Carl