Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive just finished a 2" body lift on my Discovery series 1. I have a few problems. Ive let the steering shaft go out a bit, but now steering feels lumpy and stiff. Is the bottom uni angle too much? Also how did u solve the problem with both gearsticks hitting the console - 2nd, 4th and reverse, and hirange? and thirdly how did u go about lifting the factory rear bar to suit? Anyone who has done ans experienced these problems, ideas would b greatly appreciated.

i could tell you matty

but u wont like it

(should of stuck with the pootrol)

I had some help when i did mine (read - i watched while they did it ) but steering is OK on mine. From memory we loosened both ends of the steering and adjusted while turning steering wheel to guage any binding. I think i have read that if you do not have enough length to adjust properly the Rangie shaft is longer so can be swapped in. Mine is an auto so had no problems with the gear shift but for the hi/low i had to cut some of the rubber out from under the leather boot. I also had to do the engine mounts and gearbox mounts as it became clear these needed doing once the body lift was done (from the position and movement of the hi/low once lifted). Hope this helps.

coilylux wrote:i could tell you matty

but u wont like it

(should of stuck with the pootrol)

Why u buy a toylux and put coils in it? Rovers come standard with coils!

matsmad wrote:

coilylux wrote:i could tell you matty

but u wont like it

(should of stuck with the pootrol)

Why u buy a toylux and put coils in it? Rovers come standard with coils!

i bet you my toylux will go further than the ugly limo

coilylux wrote:

matsmad wrote:

coilylux wrote:i could tell you matty

but u wont like it

(should of stuck with the pootrol)

Why u buy a toylux and put coils in it? Rovers come standard with coils!

i bet you my toylux will go further than the ugly limo

Careful Mark, u are on the ROVER forum!

I think you will find the steering uni's are rooted. The early steel ones were prone to siezure and there's nothing you can do to fix them. This normally shows up when you cause them to flex a bit more. Go to the wreckers and get a later alloy block type which fits straight on and don't sieze up.

Also, you will need to extend the gearsticks a bit. You can get away with just the transfer lever, extend by about 30mm, use a suitable nut and bolt say 35mm long, with the right thread, cut off the head and weld on a nut with the same thread to this end, leaving as much of the thread in the nut as possible, bend the rod slightly. The nut end will screw down on the existing lever, and the knob will screw onto the thread above it. You can do the gearstick the same way too.

I found that this cleared the plastic bits and stopped the levers clashing. You may need to trim some of the plasticky surrounds to get full movement back.

Lifting the rear bar requires 2 new brackets - just use some angle iron that bridges the gap between the existing mounts and where you want the bar to go - I think we used 35mm angle, with holes to suit which bolted to the original bracket/holes inside the bumper, and then sat on top of the chassis bracket (there's holes there too from memory) to which the bumper originally bolted. It all lined up OK with the sides etc

Will look into that. Thanks for the input. Will chase that later model steering uni cause mine feels like crap