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warn 8274 brake sharft spindle
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 10:06 am
by old tom
HI has any one had truble taping into the end of brake sharft? broken 3 taps any iders ?
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:34 am
by sootygu
Had the same problem. HSS would not touch it so ended up using carbide taps but even broke a couple of those, luckily they cost me nothing.
Carbide is probably your only option.
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 12:39 pm
by old tom
what would happen if i over drilled the hole and then mig the hole then taped into it would this work?
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 1:04 pm
by Bad JuJu
Cobalt tap - is apparently what you use.
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 1:55 pm
by GQ4.8coilcab
Me and the old man had trouble drilling it. What bit did you use? And yer, what tap do you use? Is it absolutely necessary? We gave up but havent fitted it yet so we can still do it. Any hints?
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 2:03 pm
by STIKA
i have had a bolt tig welded to mine
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 2:46 pm
by GQ4.8coilcab
STIKA wrote:i have had a bolt tig welded to mine
mmmmm good idea

Wouldn't be as strong as tapping a bolt but will hold it better then the circlip anyday
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 4:11 pm
by nzdarin
I've had a clamp made that fits over the circlip. To fit it you need to remove the circlip and the spring washers. It then fits where the spring washers were. You then put the circlip on and then the second part has a recess machined into it that the circlip fit into. There are 3 bolts that hold the 2 parts together.
A little bit more involved puttig it together BUT it will fit any standard winch without mods!
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:12 pm
by Zac Zec
any good machine shop should be able to drill and tap it. cost me 100 bucks to get my done(bolt and end cap machined out of 4140 included).
They drilled the hole with like a masonary drill bit(slighty different) then heated up to tap it, then treated it again to bring it back to strength.
Money well spent i rekon
Cheers
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:26 pm
by cloughy
Zac Zec wrote:
They drilled the hole with like a masonary drill bit
Cheers

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:32 pm
by jaspers joint
If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:23 pm
by awill4x4
jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
also, if you reverse sharpen a masonry bit and run it in reverse in a drill at slow speeds it will often drill out a snapped HSS tap that can't be removed normally.
Regards Andrew.
Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:58 pm
by Guy
I have used and abused a set of drill bit made by a german mob, they are labelled Allround Bohrer .. Picked them up from a 4x4 show years ago. After watching the guy turn a wiltshire file into swiss cheese with one bit (about 30 holes) and start on another as a demo I was convinced. I have never sharpened mine and they still bite well. Work as masonary bits as well ..
Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:48 am
by cloughy
jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
No shit, you sharpen the little endy bit as per normal drill bit

Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 11:39 am
by Guy
cloughy wrote:jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
No shit, you sharpen the little endy bit as per normal drill bit

Make sure that you have an aluminiom oxide stone or similar to sharpen it with, and that the bit is of good quality to begin with .. not all carbide tips are equal
Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:32 pm
by Zac Zec
You can buy special drill bits that look like a masonary bit just to drill high tensile and hardened steel.
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 12:08 am
by cloughy
Zac Zec wrote:You can buy special drill bits that look like a masonary bit just to drill high tensile and hardened steel.
Deadset?? not taking the piss, very curious indeed, do you have any links, pics??
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:05 am
by Zac Zec
Deadset

Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:39 am
by nastytroll
The brand I have used is ARTU drill have been using them for 12 years (not the same ones), they can be sharpened to an extent if you have a diamond lap/wheel. I used to use them for drilling upto 62 rockwell hardend alloy toolsteels and tungsten molibdenum high speed steels, A file is only 56-58 rockwell. They need to be kept cool or the silversolder will melt holding the carbide tip in and if they get exesive vibration the will chip.
ARTU drills are cheap bout $6 for a 10mm.
Back to topic highmount brake shafts are only case hardend so you can anneal the end to be tapped, The late model warn shafts have a deeper hardening and some I've tryed to tap were to hard so I drilled them oversize pressed in a hightensile slug and tig welded it in then tapped the slug. I've done prob 30 Highmount brake shafts and had no problems.
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 6:27 pm
by giantracing
easy job. 10mm hole 20 mm deep. $100 per sharft . done heaps of them never had one i couldn't do.
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 7:54 pm
by GQ4.8coilcab
giantracing wrote:easy job. 10mm hole 20 mm deep. $100 per sharft . done heaps of them never had one i couldn't do.
how do you do it

Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:07 pm
by giantracing
easy. deposit 100 in to an account. post to me, i do it, send it back. see easy for you
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:17 pm
by chpd 80
Anyone in Melbourne who does this???
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:11 pm
by hammey
chpd 80 wrote:Anyone in Melbourne who does this???
yeah mate, SG Leslie&sons ph 0394592859
19 Mologa rd West Hiedelberg
VIC 3081
The guys name is Malcom. cost me $80 and you get a bolt as well as the retaining cap, and maybe shims but cant remember.

Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 11:09 pm
by old tom
sent mine to malcom today
Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 2:43 pm
by chpd 80
Thanks guys, will send it to them today.