Outer Limits 4x4 Board

heya all im curious what is the highest lift i can get for a fj40 how much and where from??
thanks

This ones got a reasonably big lift

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 76&pos=210

Spring over conversion is your best bang for buck when lifting a 40.

f..k that teff 40 is sweet!!!....
how would i go about a sprung over conversion...is their any sites?

yea dobbin's is the biggest 40 ive seen, but way out of most peoples price range and skills

prob go a spring over with some extended shackles i guess?

i think you can buy SOA kits but ive got no idea where from

John

How high are you wanting to go, and why.

Layto....

Personally, I would not run any extra lift if you go the SOA. 40s do not have the widest diffs to begin with and the more height you run the tippier the car will be. Dont lift it over an soa on flat springs or you will become unbalanced.

I ran SOA with two load bearing leaves (the shortest ones) removed and 35s and the car was tall. If i was to build a 40 again I would go 60 or 80s diffs and coils. 4-link rear, 3-link +phard front.

There's alot of stuff that has to be dead on when doing a springover too. pinion angle, caster, spring perch welds, steering, the list goes on. If you have no idea how to do one, research it till you know each and every step backwards before you start.
Done properly, they are an easy and effective mod. Done half-arsed they can turn into an expensive, unsafe, and pretty crappy setup quickly.

Just a note. If you are planning on running smaller than 35s you car will look retarded.

Mate, go springover, forget converting diffs if you don't have money, I've got SOA and I had 10" rims with custom 2" backspacing done, I'm now 1 inch wider than a 100 series, no problems with tipping over, unless you're an idiot. If you've got no budget limit, buy 80 series diffs, or GQ for front, and go coils. SICK

I have been looking into suspension upgrades for my 1969 fl40 for the last couple of weeks. I have found http://www.proffittscruisers.com I can't recommend their products yet, but the people are extremely helpful and know a lot about the 40 series. BTW I don't work for them, or owe them any money

if your doing it for tyres. i know of a bloke that can teach ya how to get it running 39s on standard springs.

he personaly runs 36s, and taught me how to get too that point( which is quite easy)


after that if you want clearance, a 2 inch lift should sufice.

if your doing it for looks, ither soa, or put in some coils and 80 series diffs.

Wambat wrote:if your doing it for tyres. i know of a bloke that can teach ya how to get it running 39s on standard springs.

he personaly runs 36s, and taught me how to get too that point( which is quite easy)


after that if you want clearance, a 2 inch lift should sufice.

if your doing it for looks, ither soa, or put in some coils and 80 series diffs.

Im not sure what you mean by that last sentance?

Are you implying that a properly done SOA is just for looks? Im sure that with guard chopping and offset rims you could run 36s no worries on a 40 but you would have very little flex and your scrub radius would probably be rooted too.

Not being critical, Im genuinely curious. Could you expand on your post?

39'S on standard??? Love to see it. I've just bought 38's, I've got Spring Over, have already cut heaps out of rear guards, and about to remove and absolute sh*tload more this weekend so expensive tyres don't scrub. I've had to cut off the front bumper ends as well, and will remove the outer lip on the front guards as well. I used to have 35's and they would rub on the chassis rail on the rears before I had custom rims made up. For the cost of a good SOA, you could buy 2 x 80 series diff's with all arms attached, and still have heaps of money to pay someone to do all the welding up..

what my last sentance ment was, i wouldnt do soa if it was going to be used in the bush, im just not a fan of massive lifts, well some look tops, but im more worryed about rolling( remenber i am looking at this from my own point of view with my own driving style)


and the 39s thing, 39s is just what i have been told. i havent done it yet. BUT the bloke that was telling me, always adds it in when any one askes about lifting there 40 to clear tyres.

howevr he did tell me how to clear 35/36s at standard hieght( not as much involved)

first part was the rear diff on the 40 is not mounted central on the leaf spring pack. its mounted an inch and a half forward, so first thing was reseting the diff, buy drilling a hole for the locator an inch and a half back from the one that is already there.

then the rest is mostly choping. he mentioned something about using lifted schocks, and removing some leaves. i am asuming the load carrying ones.

how ever. as i havent put this in practis yet. i dont know everything, but the fella that is running it thinks its pretty good.


also with the shorty to get the bigger tyres you end up with a longer wheel base.


but myself, i want a 45, so im more intrested in the front not the rear, as ill build my own tray to suit.


if you still have more questions as i have expelled all i know. ill tell you how to contact the fella that gave me my info. and you can decide for your self, if its a load ( as im taking his word for it)


cheers Alistair

not trying to flame you Alistair......but I dont like the idea of driling a leaf for the center bolt......It would be easier and safer to get longer springs with the offset center bolt and fit them (55's I think fit and suit well, not 100% sure)

cheers

Many ways to do many things.

The real question is what do you want it to do with it

matt.mcinnes wrote:Many ways to do many things.

The real question is what do you want it to do with it

Make it stand out in a car park

Only limit is your wallet:



Like matt said, it all depends what you want to do with the truck.

I have a 1975 FJ40 and last week i put 35's on it. They go on with no problems but i only had to trim around the rear gaurds so the back ones can fit. No structural modifying or the diff, i only trimed around the gaurds. Im not sure if 36's could fit as it would be touch and go with the rear structural beam. I have no problems with them only the front left rub when i am in a full lock turning a corner but spacers can fix that. And btw it hasnt been lifted at all.

TRELOS wrote:I have a 1975 FJ40 and last week i put 35's on it. They go on with no problems but i only had to trim around the rear gaurds so the back ones can fit. No structural modifying or the diff, i only trimed around the gaurds. Im not sure if 36's could fit as it would be touch and go with the rear structural beam. I have no problems with them only the front left rub when i am in a full lock turning a corner but spacers can fix that. And btw it hasnt been lifted at all.

you could turn the rear springs wich would move the diff rearward about 7-9cm the only thing is the wrapper will be at the shackle not the hanger

to fix you full lock prob adjust your full lock stops so turning will stop before the tyre hits anything.

full metal jacket - your correct, and i agree with you, but it was the way i was told. i wouldnt liek to drill the leaf ether, as the other hole, that was original to begin with would then become a weak point, and probably get stressed.


and as mentioned, it all depends on what you want to do with the truck.

my style of driving would probably require a lower truck with big tyres.

i love mud, rocky hill climbs, normal hill climbs, and just pretty much what ever you come across in the bush, i, absolutley killed my first 4wd, and had to sell it at a huge loss, and in doing so, have lernt that a 45,(or gq ute havent quite made up my mind but am leaning 80% to the 45) would suite my driving.


im thinking, or starting off with 36s, and eventualy running 38s, i might add 2 inchs of spring lift, just to get all the mechanicl stuff an extra 2 inchs away from the ground,

also full metal jakect, on the turning the rear springs around, i thougth the best place for the diff on leafs was in the center?? best for articualtion and all that???

also chances of running out of tailshaft length??

but the little add in wheel base( for a shorty anyways) would be welcome

wouldn't say this is the "biggest lift" by any means..
although this is what i have achieved by fiddling around with different springs and shackles and keeping it spring under..




They are 33"s under it.. it had no flex and was a rough ol ride.. i think i took it back that week to get the lift reduced cos it was just silly.

i think that measured around a 4" lift using mixed spring packs and relocated diffs and lengthned front/rear drive shafts..

it'd look cool.. but then god would kill a kitten :(

Make your choices early

I had a stocker, got a 2 inch lift, wasn't happy still, went SOA and 35's it looked the part but is too high, consequently laid it over.

If you want to go SOA do it on stock flogged out springs, a SOA is a huge lift on its own let alone new 2 inch springs. Then account for your tyres. You don't want to be too high as people have said.

Some are of the SUA some are the SOA, think about it take your time and work out how high you want to be and what tires you want to run. What sort of work you want to do. Do you need bigger than 33's? Do you want to tour, rock hop, go extreme?

If you are heading down the heavily customised path then you will end up SOA most likely, do it early do it right and work it out.

As busiboy said. If you do go the SOA route, then stock flat springs with the shortest load bearing leaf removed would IMO be the only way to do it.
Ive done a few SOA conversions and every time this has been the setup used. Its still one of the best mods for a SUA leaf truck according to me.

My current ride is sprung over and the only reason Im changing to coils is that I want to build a link system as I havent done that yet and it looks like fun. Otherwise I would keep the Soa setup as it works well.

v840 wrote:
My current ride is sprung over and the only reason Im changing to coils is that I want to build a link system as I havent done that yet and it looks like fun. Otherwise I would keep the Soa setup as it works well.

very interested in seeing that buildup!!

fullmetaljacket wrote:

v840 wrote:
My current ride is sprung over and the only reason Im changing to coils is that I want to build a link system as I havent done that yet and it looks like fun. Otherwise I would keep the Soa setup as it works well.

very interested in seeing that buildup!!

Not sure if this is going to be a dissapointment but Its going to be a zook, not a 40. Im nearly at the end of my parts gathering phase, only gears and steering to sort then its go time. I'll put it in members once I start.

David.T wrote:heya all im curious what is the highest lift i can get for a fj40 how much and where from??
thanks

you can raise it up 1,000,000 inches if you have the money

there are plenty of shops who would help

better off buying one already lifted by 1,000,000 inches though as the driveline is not cheap

this thread killed four domo-kuns

v840 wrote: Not sure if this is going to be a dissapointment but Its going to be a zook, not a 40. Im nearly at the end of my parts gathering phase, only gears and steering to sort then its go time. I'll put it in members once I start.

oh well......will still be interesting.....pitty it wasnt a 40