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Turbo Oil & Water Lines

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 4:38 pm
by oondy
I can get some braided lines made up for oil & water connections to a turbo but the hose used is only 1/8th" or 3mm ID.

Is this large enough or do i need bigger?

They would be for a GT28RS on my TD42 if it makes any difference.

cheers

OONDY

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 6:47 pm
by Dzltec
No, not near big enough, water lines need to be same as heater hoses, roughly 5/8 in size.

Normal heater hose is ok, however doesnt look as good as braded hose, maybe have a look at earls website.

Andy

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 6:49 pm
by oondy
what about for the oil lines though?

cheers

OONDY

PS your diesel tec webpage no worky

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 9:44 pm
by PGS 4WD
MTQ Dandenong has the cheapest braided lines, order a set for a TD42 kit, you will need an adapter for the oil line, the fitting must be a JIC type into the turbo oil supply as the fitting locks the bearing cage, or else turbo failure.
I would suggest 3/8 to 1/2 inch water hose will be enough as that is what they supply in most kits, ensure the flow is adequate, the lines must go to pressure and suction (suction is usually at the water pump and pressure off the block or head) Personally I would only use braided teflon hose due to the heat, but my backgroung is petrol where exhaust temps can be 850-900 degrees.

Dont go massive in turbo oil supply line as the roller turbo requires a maximum oil flow of about 40 psi, check http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... s.html#t16
You may need to fit a restrictor as the text suggests or the turbo seals my become overloaded.

Joel

Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 9:44 am
by bazzle
Oil in shouldnt be a problem but ensure drain is large bore .

Bazzle

Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 11:18 am
by KiwiBacon
If you're plumbing your turbo for water, you need to have one line up and one line down. This is so the water will thermo-siphon when the engine is off.

Otherwise on a hot shutdown the water in the jacket will boil and vaporlock the housing. Doing nothing for cooling.

If it's a diesel, I wouldn't bother plumbing the turbo for water. But don't seal the ports completely either.

Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 11:31 am
by oondy
cheers for the replies dudes.

OONDY

Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 9:10 pm
by PGS 4WD
You cannot run a turbo unless the oil drain is within 7 degrees of straight down or the seals will fail. I have seen many a diesel turbo fail, the pre turbo exhaust temps are 750 degrees C and the two biggest causes of turbo failure are oil coke from heat and hot shut down and overboost related thrust failure. The oil return channels in a turbo core are very small, they block up with oil carbon and the pressure overpowers the seal and due to the oil not being able to return the fresh oil can't get in under the bearing where oil pressure supports the shaft like an engine bearing, hence the term fully floating bearing(rollers are different but still fail for the same reasons).

Joel

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:01 pm
by giacomo.m
PGS 4WD wrote:MTQ Dandenong has the cheapest braided lines, order a set for a TD42 kit, you will need an adapter for the oil line, the fitting must be a JIC type into the turbo oil supply as the fitting locks the bearing cage, or else turbo failure.
I would suggest 3/8 to 1/2 inch water hose will be enough as that is what they supply in most kits, ensure the flow is adequate, the lines must go to pressure and suction (suction is usually at the water pump and pressure off the block or head) Personally I would only use braided teflon hose due to the heat, but my backgroung is petrol where exhaust temps can be 850-900 degrees.

Dont go massive in turbo oil supply line as the roller turbo requires a maximum oil flow of about 40 psi, check http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... s.html#t16
You may need to fit a restrictor as the text suggests or the turbo seals my become overloaded.

Joel
Hi all.

what is " JIC " type ? not standard BSPT ? and MTQ Dandenong web site ?

Thank you.

Giacomo

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:26 pm
by KiwiBacon
giacomo.m wrote: Hi all.

what is " JIC " type ? not standard BSPT ? and MTQ Dandenong web site ?

Thank you.

Giacomo
JIC = Japanese Industrial Connector (?). It's a japanese standard with threads similar to BSP. But with a taper which locks into a flare in the other part.

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:41 pm
by giacomo.m
thank you KiwiBacon

but the tap and dies find theselves in Europe ?

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 8:55 pm
by PGS 4WD
Honestly sometimes its like getting blood from a stone there(MTQ), you won't find anything on their web site, they are National, find your nearest and go in and order what you need, they don't carry much on the shelf it all comes from Sydney. It does save a few bucks though. They aren't really geared for low volume retail sales but they will sell over the counter.

Joel

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:04 pm
by giacomo.m
PGS 4WD wrote:Honestly sometimes its like getting blood from a stone there(MTQ), you won't find anything on their web site, they are National, find your nearest and go in and order what you need, they don't carry much on the shelf it all comes from Sydney. It does save a few bucks though. They aren't really geared for low volume retail sales but they will sell over the counter.

Joel
thank you.

therefore where I can acquire the stainless steel braided turbo water lines in Australia ?

Giacomo

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:48 pm
by PGS 4WD
This is the site, sorry I didn't notice where you were from, try this http://www.mtqes.com.au/
Joel