Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey fellas,
About 3 months ago i was stopped at the lights and went to take off, i heard a big clang from the drive line, it progressively got worst and worst to the point it was undrivable, i honed it down to the transfer box and ripped it out, pulled it apart and discovered the chain had about 2 in of play in it, although the gears appeared undamaged from the chain jumping, i priced a chain from suzuki......$450 supply, i also found a transfer case secondhand.....$295, three month warranty unknown history. my question is this, whilst the gears appear undamaged and the chain has streched alot, would i be better off buying a new chain, or the second hand transfer case.....or adapting an older case for the lower gearing, if so what am i looking at price wise?
thanks heaps for the advise.
warren

Ditch the chain driven case, go a gear driven case and get reduction gears , but it wont be the cheapest option, e.g. bout $1200 for gears, $300 for 2nd hand case, $? for re-build with new gears, and then the odds and ends like brackets etc to fit it into your coiler. BUT.......You will love the reduction

Layto....

buy aleaf sprung sierra..........

i went through this recently, i plan on keeping 30 inch tyres and i don't care to much for steep climbs and what not so gearing was fine for me so i just got a new chain now it drives perfect and is a lot quieter.

i originally tried the swapping for a geared case option but it was going to be to expensive and to much of a pin to find the case i needed. I had one from an early wide track and none of the flanges matched up and even if i swapped them from my transfer it would not have worked because of shaft lengths. I think i had another prob aswell.

I am pretty sure you need one out of a 95 leafy for it to work properly.

basically if you think your going to run 31's or over go the geared case from a late leafy.

but i am happy with my new chain, ask around different dealers i got mine for $360 with a bit of negotiation.

and just as a general forum thing the solution to coilys problems is not to buy a leafy i'm really over people saying that i have owned both and have spent the same amount modding both and my coily is a million times better so get over it.

SAM

No, you don't need a 95 case. However, as you found, you do need some extra parts that are not apparent.

Any leaf sierra case will work. Depending on the type of driving you do, a late 1.0 case "shift light" might be the best option.

The case is shorter from front to rear output. In a coiler, the front driveshaft is longer to allow for this, so a leaf front driveshaft is needed.

I can't recall exactly now, I had a feeling that coilers ran a NT flange or something funny (sould be wrong, it was years ago, but I still haev the coiler case at home). In any case, when I did the swap on a members car, there was some jiggerypokery with unis and flanges, but he then ran a late 1.0 case for a couple of years with around 30's, eventually stepping up to a S1 rockhopper when he went to 31 'pedes.

If I was trying to do it from scratch, when I bought the case I would also grab a jackshaft, 1/2 the rear driveshaft and the front shaft from the donor leaf car. this will mean you have all the possible parts you need to do the swap.

Have a look at the gearing on the low range gearset thread and punch some numbers into a converter such as the novak one, you might find that the stock 1.0 case gearing is all you need. If you go with a shift light case, you can fit low range gearsets no problems.

Steve

they are actually a larger flange the have threaded holes way bigger than 1 litre ones, i was not sure what case a needed or what was the go i just didn't have enough time to stuff around.

if i ever decide to do it gain i'll ask you for a list of parts

thanks SAM