Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone know what the front and rear spline counts and stock pinion angle is for a 1996 X-90?

3

Go do something constructive.... like go and wind up your Noddy Mobile

Rears are 26 and I'm pretty sure '96 fronts should be 26 too. No idea on the pinion angle.

That equates to what I've half-worked out... thanks heaps CJ

ARRGH!!! Ok... rear are sorted at 26...

Getting conflicting info now... I'm now being told that they are definately a 22 on the front

not sure how different the x-90 is but i reckon the stock pinion angle on my 97 j20a vitara was around 6 degrees.

are you trying to dial the calmini heim joint in?

i had mine in & out a heaps times trying to find a happy medium between bent coils due to the spring perches rotating & working the uni joints overtime. i can count the threads showing from the lock nut if that helps?

i'll chuck in a set of replacement uni's in as they had done 83,000kms of normal use & are now been running new "groove" for 15,000kms due to the lift + they dont have grease nipples.

Thanks for that... a groove count would be good

That heim-joint is driving me nuts... that thing has been in and out more times than Paris Hilton has had one-night stands...

Any ideas on the front axle spline count? Was it the GeoTracker or Sidekick that's the X-90 driveline equivalent in the US? ....arrghh.... 10 bolt... 12 bolt... 22 spline... 26 spline....

Squik wrote:
Any ideas on the front axle spline count? Was it the GeoTracker or Sidekick that's the X-90 driveline equivalent in the US?

They're one and the same and the Tracker was also a GM amd a Chevrolet as well as a Geo and don't forget the Asuna Sunrunner too.

Squik wrote:

That heim-joint is driving me nuts... that thing has been in and out more times than Paris Hilton has had one-night stands...

Chuck it, use the original a-arm with the ball joint and make a spacer. The heim flogs out quickly so you'll be replacing it again and again.

So where is the spacer used?

Between your ears, Sqwark

Oh look... it's Bum-Zook!

He of the Holy Order of Pygmy Tram Drivers on Zoloft .... all hail

...so... which one of your relatives is sharing your bed tonight?

Kaziiiing..... Kazaaaaang.....Kapooooow! Three direct hits... home run... BOOYAH!

What the fork are you doing with a x-90 POS. Why you want to know the spline count, you already stripped a crown wheel or axle in th 4WDM carpark. you shoulda` known that suzuki running gear was made at a butter factory.

I'm a little more masculine than you so I can cope with such an... ahem... unusual vehicle

Nah... getting air lockers, need the count to order them ... you still trying to counteract gravity... have they changed your medication yet?... on that note... why are your hands untied?

SHIT! You've grown oposable thumb haven't you!!???

squik, bring it over, we'll sort it out.
(be warned that the first stage of sorting involves the calmini heim joint getting thrown onto our roof, where it'll be much more useful)

Liam wrote:squik, bring it over, we'll sort it out.
(be warned that the first stage of sorting involves the calmini heim joint getting thrown onto our roof, where it'll be much more useful)

hey liam can you shed some more light on throwing the heim joint on your roof, i'm in SA? i can post it to you if that helps....

i have seen technical drawings of a spacer for use with original A arm & ball joint. can the calmini A arm be modified/reused?

spacing the balljoint isn't the answer- it's part of the problem. Spacing it up is only going to make the upper arm fight the lowers.

Thanks Liam... but Professor Vella (aka Da Scat Doctor... oh... that sounds kinda wrong doesn't it?) is going to do a bumper to bumper Calmini toss for me ...

Heeey... you wouldn't know the front spline count on a HoaX-90 would you? As you can see by this thread...it's a toss up between 22 and 26

Liam wrote:spacing the balljoint isn't the answer- it's part of the problem. Spacing it up is only going to make the upper arm fight the lowers.

The problem if you don't space it up is that the when you lift the suspension and leave the balljoint unspaced, the balljoint starts to bind due to the angle it must now operate at and flogs out. Some also offset the balljoint at the same time as spacing up e.g. up 50mm and out 25mm.

Squik wrote:

Heeey... you wouldn't know the front spline count on a HoaX-90 would you? As you can see by this thread...it's a toss up between 22 and 26

It's 26 spline same as the 2.0 Vit's.

Spacing the ball joint is a nasty solution to a simple problem.
Lifting the balljoint changes the relationship between the upper and lower link pivot points.
The factory didn't just put the arms where it was convenient- they worked out the correct seperation so the arms don't bind or fight each other as they cycle. You can't randomly lift one point, leave the others alone and expect it to work properly.
All that matters is where the points are in relationship to each other- the path the arms take on the way to those points is irrelevant. But the problem is the single a-frame joint on the top of the diff is being being pushed too far- so just make a suitable arm (with a bend in it) this'll relieve the angle on the joint whilst not changing the seperation between the links.

cj wrote:

Squik wrote:

Heeey... you wouldn't know the front spline count on a HoaX-90 would you? As you can see by this thread...it's a toss up between 22 and 26

It's 26 spline same as the 2.0 Vit's.

WE HAVE WINNER Thanks CJ

YAY! Ok... according to a total of 14 sources... 26 splines.... execpt for a few 22 splines that came into the country due to a 'production issue' that nobody wants to talk about... weird

Liam wrote:Spacing the ball joint is a nasty solution to a simple problem.
Lifting the balljoint changes the relationship between the upper and lower link pivot points.
The factory didn't just put the arms where it was convenient- they worked out the correct seperation so the arms don't bind or fight each other as they cycle. You can't randomly lift one point, leave the others alone and expect it to work properly.
All that matters is where the points are in relationship to each other- the path the arms take on the way to those points is irrelevant. But the problem is the single a-frame joint on the top of the diff is being being pushed too far- so just make a suitable arm (with a bend in it) this'll relieve the angle on the joint whilst not changing the seperation between the links.

Don't disagree but it seems to work ok and people, particularly zook owners seem to like cheap, easy to fab fixes.