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help with diagnosing something (diesel)

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:12 pm
by RockyF75
Ok its a bit involved, and I'm not sure if all these symptoms are related or not:

Basically, on Saturday my "fuel drain" light came on all of a sudden on a bumpy road. Now I had changed the fuel filter about a fortnight ago, and all was fine, haven't been through any mud or water.

So the light sorta stayed on and occasionally turned off, so when I got home I pulled the filter out, tipped all the fuel out and replaced it again (side note, as I tipped the fuel from the filter, some was a blue-ish color and some was yellowy :? ) after I replaced it the light went away and I thought nothing off it.

Anyhow, the next day it was a bit hard to start (took 2-3 goes) then, it didn't want to idle, it'd stall :? Driving on Sunday, I had to keep the revs up when driving if I was stopping in neutral or something or it would die (this also wasn't consistent, occasionally i could get it to idle for 20 second or so, and then it would start to rev low and shake like crazy before stalling). So after about 20ks driving and noticing this when I stopped, I thought maybe bad fuel, and pulled into a different servo, threw some injector cleaner in and topped up. revved the living daylights out of it for the next few k's (3500 or so on every gear change) and hey presto, it was fixed :?

But today, its still hard to start sometimes, mostly when cold. Started ok ONCE today around midday. and at idle it seems to shake a fair bit more than usual. The hard to start bit is making me think glow plugs :idea: , but would dodgey glow plugs cause it to stall and idle lower? In hindsight I really don't think it was dodge fuel cause I topped up on thursday and it was fine until Saturday.

Sorry for the long post, any thoughts?

Also, when I changed the fuel filter I didn't prime it enough and I tried to start it dry, could that have stuffed something up?

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:19 pm
by HotFourOk
Funny colour fuel doesn't sound right Nath...

With the problem being so intermittent I would point to the fuel having a contamination issue such as water in it.

Throw in a bottle of Chemtech, fill 'er up and see how it goes.

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:34 pm
by bj42turbo
Not sure if its the same as a toyota diesel but mine has a sedimeter under the chassis thats needs draining when the fuel filter light comes on

BJ

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:42 pm
by HotFourOk
bj42turbo wrote:Not sure if its the same as a toyota diesel but mine has a sedimeter under the chassis thats needs draining when the fuel filter light comes on

BJ
I think the Rocky's have a tap on the lower section of the fuel filter in the engine bay to drain water.

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10:49 pm
by bj42turbo
HotFourOk wrote:
bj42turbo wrote:Not sure if its the same as a toyota diesel but mine has a sedimeter under the chassis thats needs draining when the fuel filter light comes on

BJ
I think the Rocky's have a tap on the lower section of the fuel filter in the engine bay to drain water.
cool

Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:56 pm
by jav
I think the early rocky's still had a water trap under the driver's side on the chassie rail same as the scats.

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 12:07 am
by Guy
sounds like the system needs to be bled to me.. I would say you have air in your pump ..

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 12:09 am
by midi73
love_mud wrote:sounds like the system needs to be bled to me.. I would say you have air in your pump ..
Yep I agree. Or you have not sealed something properly and it is sucking in air.

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 12:12 am
by RockyF75
love_mud wrote:sounds like the system needs to be bled to me.. I would say you have air in your pump ..
that means I crack injectors, and manually pump? or do I crank it over a few times? And do I do this in any specific order?(4cyl)

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 3:57 am
by BundyRumandCoke
1- Yes there is air still in the system, causing the rough idleing.
2- The OE filters do have a tap under them, and a drain that leads down onto the chassis rail.
3- Just crack number 1 injector while the motor is running, tighten when no more bubbles appear.

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 5:35 pm
by cooter
BundyRumandCoke wrote:1- Yes there is air still in the system, causing the rough idleing.
2- The OE filters do have a tap under them, and a drain that leads down onto the chassis rail.
3- Just crack number 1 injector while the motor is running, tighten when no more bubbles appear.
also crack the return from the pump they tend to get airlocks
and check for leaks with a white cloth
id also crack the rest of the injectors one at a time
but you will have to find the air leak first
(not trying to step on ya toes ther bundy)

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 6:27 pm
by RockyF75
cooter wrote:
BundyRumandCoke wrote:1- Yes there is air still in the system, causing the rough idleing.
2- The OE filters do have a tap under them, and a drain that leads down onto the chassis rail.
3- Just crack number 1 injector while the motor is running, tighten when no more bubbles appear.
also crack the return from the pump they tend to get airlocks
and check for leaks with a white cloth
id also crack the rest of the injectors one at a time
but you will have to find the air leak first
(not trying to step on ya toes ther bundy)
Dont think I have a leak, it prolly just got air in their after I replaced the filter and tried to be lazy and start it without priming it enough :oops: , but i'll check anyway.

It died going slow on a steep hill today so air is looking like the favourite ATM.

Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 7:36 pm
by dai-hard
On the top of where the filter screws on there is a bleed nipple and a round pump. Mine wont bleed properly and does what you are saying if you dont fill the filter with diesel screw in on (very messy i know) then bleed it. you dont need to undo any injectors.

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:21 pm
by RockyF75
I cracked all the injectors whilst running for about 20 secs each, that sound about right? Now my engine bay smells of diesel :D , BUT its pretty much easy to start again, although once today it sorta hi-cupped slightly on one start so I'll have to see how it goes tomorrow if its truly cured.

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:24 pm
by j-top paj
cleaned the fuel yet? ie chemtech or similar? you could still have contaminated fuel

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:28 pm
by RockyF75
Yeah threw some chemtech in it straight away on sunday. Will shake out the filter again tomorrow if I have time

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:30 pm
by j-top paj
shouldnt u change it with a new one rather than shaking it out?

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:33 pm
by RockyF75
j-top paj wrote:shouldnt u change it with a new one rather than shaking it out?
Hope not, i only put this one in 2 weeks ago :?

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:34 pm
by zagan
BIL, Diesle had the exact same problems.

It wouldn't prime(pump) and was always soft and easy to pump.

Would die all the time while driving, up/down hills.

This was on one afternoon and lasted for a few hours.

Water was drained out.

What the problem was, the seal around the water drain had busted and the fuel system wouldn't seal/build up presure, so couldn't push in enough diesel to burn.

You might want to check that out as well.

You take off the fuel filter and undo the water drian part there should be a rubber ring around the water drain part.

The other thing could be the pump is dieing?

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:54 pm
by j-top paj
how much a filter going to cost? 20bob? might as well ;)

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:24 pm
by RockyF75
j-top paj wrote:how much a filter going to cost? 20bob? might as well ;)
Its a rocky, $40 something IIRC :roll: I'll pour it out, and if it looks funky i'll change it. I really dont think its the fuel cause It didn't start doing anything wierd till a few days after I filled up.

BTW, can air make the fuel drain light come on?

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:29 pm
by j-top paj
$40 :shock: where do you buy your filters from dude? i used to get change from a 20 when i got mine for the jabber.

Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:43 pm
by RockyF75
ripco or stupid cheap, depends which i'm driving past

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 12:51 am
by zagan
RockyF70 wrote:
j-top paj wrote:how much a filter going to cost? 20bob? might as well ;)
Its a rocky, $40 something IIRC :roll: I'll pour it out, and if it looks funky i'll change it. I really dont think its the fuel cause It didn't start doing anything wierd till a few days after I filled up.

BTW, can air make the fuel drain light come on?
If you get a new filter should come with a rubber seal, mine did.

If the light is based around fuel presure then yeah if the presure droped enough it could turn it on, if it's a different sensor then it'd be something else.

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:07 pm
by shorty_f0rty
RockyF70 wrote:BTW, can air make the fuel drain light come on?
not sure if this is the same with the rocky's but in my bj42.. i get a filter light come on when there is water in the seperator (meaning to check it and empty it).. it also comes on and stays on if there is a problem with the alternator/regulator..
this happened not too long ago and was a fuse inside the regulator..

like i said.. not sure if its the same for rockys.. just giving you some other avenues to check out..

cheers.

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:05 am
by bazzle
Fill the filter with ATF or PS fluid to help prime. Dont need diesel.

Bazzle