Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Pajo Money Box is up and running after being fitted with supercharger, as per previous post. Pmb went on dyno yesterday and returned 155hp and 800lb torque. These figures are able to be increased as was unable to keep fuel up to injectors and was running out fuel. It is running 7psi boost. The sister car Blown 26 is at present awaiting new heads and has also been up and running and will be fitted with rx7 injectors and larger fuel pump. B26 is booked to go on dyno next Wednesday but at this stage looks as may not be ready.

Go the Super Shorty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pics

Don't know how !!!!

www.photobucket.com put your photos there and copy and paste the code from under the pics into here. it should be [img]picture.jpg[/img] or something like that.


good work btw!

how much did it cost ??

Thanks for information will try to post pics.

Congratulations! Most probably don't realize the head-scratching work necessary to do this.

I see you're feeding the rear of the fuel rail, but it looks like the regulator is fed via the rail front. What fuel rail routing are you using?

I originally tried to fit one of those Nissan blowers, but instead opted for the Magnacharger MP-62. How did you incorporate the extra drive pulley?

Frank

hi frank how is your project paning out last i heard you were having internal problems i have experienced the same i have a cracked head un related to supercharger project however still a pain in the butt both cars were running 2.5pnd boost for around 5 weeks and coverd between them around 5000km with no problems supercharger related its only been 2 weeks the cars have been running 7 pnds and they go like stink paj money box ran 155hp atw on 275 70 16 tyres it had a maximum of 5300rpm as the fuel pump and injectors could not cope with this rectified we are hoping to get around 180 hp atw our torque is 800lb or 1084NM after the injector up grade we will probably stop as this is more than we need [we are getting old]
the fuel rail two left hand rails cut at the crossovers the one on the rhs needed a mount moved to line up the old crossover tubes were flared and fitted efi fuel lines to it through a t piece the front was the same only teed to a malpassi fuel prees reg doing this conversion stops no 5 6 cyl leaning out as well as getting the standard reg out of the road of the manifold.
the pulley used was of a 3.8 commodore pwr steer unsure if the buick is the same both idler pulleys are paj
we imported a nissan manifold from the states modified it to suit our aplication and used it for a mould and set them up on the base mits manifold we are currently modding the third paj which is the same as your shape it was 4 cyl the manifold was built this way so we could adjust the pulley alingnment as this is the most important part of the process as i found out on my 1st project a 4cyl supercharged it was fine also went hard however i had belt problems this time i set them up with a laser beam and had no probs all three pajeros are different in the mounting set up
as you know it is a costly exercise with more money being spent on development as well as a lot of head scratching as you said every problem solved creates another.

Sorry for asking, how do you control fuel injection and ignition timing? Is there any aftermarket ECU?

paj money box is running a ems system

blown26paj is running a injec

what are you running my sc 2.6 is running mits magna manifold and a injec ecu

Hiya Guys, guess who. I've finally signed up. Good to see some solid figures on the 2nd dyno session, especially the torque. Now all I need to do is pull my finger out of the proverbial and get my act together as I can't be left behind. Will need to get the mesurements of idiler pulley bracket to start making mine up. How do I upload the pic of my baseline dyno pull?

NC 3.0SWB HELLRAISER wrote:Hiya Guys, guess who. I've finally signed up. Good to see some solid figures on the 2nd dyno session, especially the torque. Now all I need to do is pull my finger out of the proverbial and get my act together as I can't be left behind. Will need to get the mesurements of idiler pulley bracket to start making mine up. How do I upload the pic of my baseline dyno pull?

Welcome to OL!

Unfortunately this site doesn't currently host pictures - you need to use somewhere like photobucket to host the pictures, then copy and paste the IMG link into your post.

Cheers,

Scott

Ive got a mate that is lookign into supercharging his paj.

What nissan's were these superchargers originally on?

they are off a nissan exterra made by eaton it was chosen due to a side inlet unfortunatly the wrong side

I hope you don't mind if I post some pictures on this thread - thought you might be interested in the way I've now reworked the fuel rail and installed a new 1:1 vacuum/boost-referenced regulator:






Frank

FrankR wrote:I hope you don't mind if I post some pictures on this thread - thought you might be interested in the way I've now reworked the fuel rail and installed a new 1:1 vacuum/boost-referenced regulator:






Frank

Want to come do that on mine

it looks neat frank just for your information i was advised by our engineer who does our machine work to support the engine pulley at the front using a bearing and plate mounted to the block as these are weak to start with they destroy the crank when they go he felt with the xtra strain as well as the load from a tighter belt to stop slippage could be a problem i am running from the fan pulley original belt pulls down blower belt pulls up hopefully it makes it even if we have trouble we will suport the front of this. just a thought while yours on the floor

Thanks for the suggestion. The original crankshaft pulley certainly did create a problem, but some of the problem was eliminated via a factory TSB with a new crankshaft pulley bolt and a revised torque value. Still, I don't blame him for being concerned, since the dished pulley design puts a lot of leverage on the bolt..... and it may prove to be an issue over time.

It seems to me that if the blower is driven from the fan pulley... and the fan pulley is driven by the crankshaft..... then the force on the crankshaft pulley (and the blower) is the same as if the blower was on the single belt system. The force would seem to me to be balanced on the fan pulley, not the crankshaft, but maybe I don't understand your arrangement.

I wanted to keep the original engine fan instead of using an electric, so had to have the blower snout made to length for alignment with the serpentine belt. Hopefully, the crank pulley can take the pressure. At this point, I'm committed to the single belt design, because to change it would require a longer blower snout.

BTW, I have found that the Goodyear GatorBack belts grip better and don't require as much tension as the continuous rib styles.

Frank

I "think" the new engine work is complete - now I need to do some tuning:





The engine is a mixed breed..... SOHC Diamante block, DOHC Diamante crankshaft/rods, Wiseco forged pistons, balanced, SOHC Montero heads, SOHC Diamante cams, ARP head studs/rod bolts, dual-feed fuel rail, 325cc injectors, Holley regulator, Magnacharger MP-62 blower, MegaSquirt 2-V3.0 ECU.

Here are a couple of short video clips:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Fnjt37jK9cs

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0ORC3QRu7Fs

Cheers,
Frank

Wow that looks neat inside and out!! Top work Frank!!

Paj, are you running the stock cams? I installed the Diamante SOHC cams and didn't get the expected results, so I'm considering changing back to stock cams to see if the results are better.

What type of dyno did you use? I used a Mustang eddy current dyno that factors wind resistance and weight, so my numbers are quite low compared to what I would see on a regular dyno.

Where is your torque and HP peak? I think I need to push mine further down the curve so the engine makes power where itr's more useful for normal driving.

The numbers I got at the wheels were 121HP @ 4962 rpms and 141 ft-lbs torque @ 4081 rpms - tires are heavy 265/75/16 MTs. I don't understand your torque numbers - apparently we're using different metrics.

Here's the dyno graph - nice flat torque curve, but I think I need to move it lower:



Frank

Well done!!!

How much did it cost you to put a super charger in yours, i got a 1989 3L v6 nf and i was looking into doing this but is my engine to old to do this or will this work fine and give me much better performace,

thx wade

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electric-Superch ... otohosting

i know these are differnt but would they work any good on a 4wd like mine and increse much power?

I like Frank's, but I think a turbo is easier.

Wadezz, electric s/c are junk. If you s/c your motor, I would have to say you need to rebuild the engine, with lower compression pistons. 8 or 8.25:1 max. Tired engines die fast when you boost 'em, then they go clanky clanky.

If you s/c your motor, I would have to say you need to rebuild the engine, with lower compression pistons. 8 or 8.25:1 max.

That depends on the amount of boost, cam choice and what pistons are used. I'm running 7psi boost with the Diamante cams and forged Wiseco pistons. My static CR is 9.05:1 and I cannot make it spark knock. I may change back to the truck cams for better low end power.... that cam change may cause me to reduce spark lead due to more cylinder pressure caused by the earlier closing of the intake valve on the truck cam.

The closing point of the intake valve impacts the DCR (dynamic compression ratio) - which is far more important in consideration than the static compression ratio.

Frank