Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am keen to give a shackle reversal a go on my little red sled ..
It is not for hardcore offroad use so mega flex is not important, actually it's handling at 120kph on the Hume is more of a priority for now
Basically I just want to try out for a little extra ride comfort (in a Zuk ) and perhaps a small lift. I would like to keep it pretty well bolt on for now incase I reckon it sucks and can reversed resaonably easily. I have an old set of factory rears springs on hand to allow for a RUF at the same time.


Steve I know you did one years ago on your Zuk .. you have any pics ? Anyone else done it .. thought about, drawn something on a napkin ?

Not sure if it would work but cant u add shackles simply to the back section and something like this but designed slightly different for the front. for the front will need to be 90deg from horizontal not angled like the rear.

?

well theres the calmini kit
http://suzuki.off-road.com/suzuki/artic ... ?id=277516
http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm

I'm planning to do a shackle reversal later down the track with longer springs ... an it will be bolt on

to have it "bolt on " your gunna need some big fangs hanging down the front

to keep your castor correct

redzook wrote:to have it "bolt on " your gunna need some big fangs hanging down the front

to keep your castor correct

"Fangs" are not really an issue with this lil Zuk ... It is more for just bombing about in and it's pretty cheap to run back and forward to work in..

so make sure you paint them white with little red tips

I'm actually impressed you can do 120km/h on the Hume in a Zuk and then expect it to be comfortable.

I reckon the RUF will add more to the comfort than the shackle reversal. If you could also extend the wheelbase via the rear this will also help. The further you are from the diffs the more comfortable the ride will be

redzook wrote:to have it "bolt on " your gunna need some big fangs hanging down the front

to keep your castor correct

i thought they where just that big to life it away from the other spring mount on the front so it doesn't hit

how does it effect castor

ofr57 wrote:

redzook wrote:to have it "bolt on " your gunna need some big fangs hanging down the front

to keep your castor correct

i thought they where just that big to life it away from the other spring mount on the front so it doesn't hit

how does it effect castor

if you take the shackle from the front it lifts the front of the spring up say 75mm

then adding the shackle to the rear lowers the back of the spring even more

wich makes your spring alot higher in the front then the rear
and when u bolt the diff up it will give it alot more positive castor

grimbo wrote:so make sure you paint them white with little red tips

I'm actually impressed you can do 120km/h on the Hume in a Zuk and then expect it to be comfortable.

I reckon the RUF will add more to the comfort than the shackle reversal. If you could also extend the wheelbase via the rear this will also help. The further you are from the diffs the more comfortable the ride will be

I must be weird .. but I actually like most of the things about driving even a pretty stock sierra ... the seats, steering wheel location position etc etc (except that friken window winder, it just bugs me .. never did on my black one though )
It gets a little squirrelly above about 125 (was bloody scary at 130 .. but I was on my way to the hospital, I was gonna make in time or not at all) so I normally sit on about 115 to 120.

I also want to do it just because I have never been in a Zuk with a SR before, It does not look that hard to do properly. RUF has been done heaps and I want to try something different.

Guy,

My SR went in the bin a long time ago. I vote with Grimbo, SR, for the work involved, only fixes 1/2 the problem in relation to ride/handling. Mine did track well at speed but I think this was only caster related. As it was it had OME front springs and shocks and wasn't moving very freely so it was pretty much driving like a stock zook with lots of caster.

I would play with caster wedges before I went to the trouble of SR.

Steve.

i lurve my SR , would never go back to conventional zook front set up !!!!

also having longer springs front & rear probaly helps !!!
we did mine originally in about 2-3 hours !!!!
(a slow day @ work , wen I was still with Aus4WD !!)

moose wrote:i lurve my SR , would never go back to conventional zook front set up !!!!

also having longer springs front & rear probaly helps !!!
we did mine originally in about 2-3 hours !!!!
(a slow day @ work , wen I was still with Aus4WD !!)

Moose it has been a long time since I have seen your Zuk .. have you got pics at all ?

Gwagensteve wrote:Guy,

My SR went in the bin a long time ago. I vote with Grimbo, SR, for the work involved, only fixes 1/2 the problem in relation to ride/handling. Mine did track well at speed but I think this was only caster related. As it was it had OME front springs and shocks and wasn't moving very freely so it was pretty much driving like a stock zook with lots of caster.

I would play with caster wedges before I went to the trouble of SR.

Steve.

Thanks for that Steve ... I still think I am gonna do it, I will let you know how it turns out ..

Taken from Zuwharrie, I think they said they were made by Sky Engineering ??

Would doing a RUF at the same time help or hinder castor ??

That's a kit to run YJ Springs SPOA so it's not reall ymuch help in this application.

RUF will have no positive or negative effect on caster, it's all down to the brackets.

My "fangs" hung down a long way and I still had caster issues so I had to go with a very short shackle and play with the angle. I was doing it with 3/4 elliptic at the same time so I coudln't pull the shackle up into the chassis like a hilux to have acceptable overall height and shackle length.

Go for your life Guy but I really don't think the results are worth the effort.

I fyou are looking for "bolt on" the shackle will have to bolt through the stock spring hanger at the rear which is A) bad practise B)will lead to excessive height in the application you are after.

I think to do this properly there is alot of fab and it will still get murdered by RUF with the shackles in the normal spot.

Steve.

Steve.

VR Rodeo wrote:



Taken from Zuwharrie, I think they said they were made by Sky Engineering ??

Would doing a RUF at the same time help or hinder castor ??

whats the diff between this set up and ruff. isnt this just a bolt on chasssi extension with longer springs or are these still the standard front springs ?

Cheers sorry if this is a dumb question. but a bolt on Ruff would be awesome..

YJ springs are wider and a fair bit longer than sierra rears. They are hard to find in australia so make a bad swap.

IMHO bolt on ruf is not really feasible because of bumpstop location and shock length problems.

If the RUF is installed with the spring hanger bolt hole moved bask as far as it can go, then yes, you can have "bolt in ruf" but it only help with one of the three advantages of ruf - ride.

Unless shock mounts are extended and/or bumpstops spaced you won't pick up any travel and the front axle won't come forward so there is no gain in clearance at the firewall.

Once the shock mount is moved (or technically, once the wheelbase is affected or wheel travel increased, if your being picky) then it's not legal anyway.

IMHO best to do it properly and move the shock mount and bumpstop forward at the same time and get the full RUF advantage.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:YJ springs are wider and a fair bit longer than sierra rears. They are hard to find in australia so make a bad swap.

IMHO bolt on ruf is not really feasible because of bumpstop location and shock length problems.

If the RUF is installed with the spring hanger bolt hole moved bask as far as it can go, then yes, you can have "bolt in ruf" but it only help with one of the three advantages of ruf - ride.

Unless shock mounts are extended and/or bumpstops spaced you won't pick up any travel and the front axle won't come forward so there is no gain in clearance at the firewall.

Once the shock mount is moved (or technically, once the wheelbase is affected or wheel travel increased, if your being picky) then it's not legal anyway.

IMHO best to do it properly and move the shock mount and bumpstop forward at the same time and get the full RUF advantage.

Steve.

YJ are hard to find, but feroza rears arn't .

Layto....

love_mud wrote:

moose wrote:i lurve my SR , would never go back to conventional zook front set up !!!!

also having longer springs front & rear probaly helps !!!
we did mine originally in about 2-3 hours !!!!
(a slow day @ work , wen I was still with Aus4WD !!)

Moose it has been a long time since I have seen your Zuk .. have you got pics at all ?

http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... &start=180

front mount & funky shackles !!

You could try this for a bolt on ruf
http://www.izook.com/reviews/rrftor/rrrftor.htm

problem with the ROCKY ROAD KIT IS THAT IT DOESN'T MOVE THE AXLE POSITION WHICH IS ONE OF THE POINTS OF DOING THE RUF

Damn the caps lock button

could you make a plate that moves the diff forward?
just a sugestion.

Potter wrote:could you make a plate that moves the diff forward?
just a sugestion.

read Steve's post on this ..

comes with one i beleive.

this is the way i have done it one one of the zooks. works ok.



Nic

Potter wrote:could you make a plate that moves the diff forward?
just a sugestion.

I have done it on my 1.0 to clear 34" swampers with flat front springs and no firewall work.

Redrilled the spring pad and ubolt plate 1" back.

Works fine but you still have the crap sierra ride.

This was (is ) a temporary fix until I do RUF/PS box shock mounts etc.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:

Potter wrote:could you make a plate that moves the diff forward?
just a sugestion.

I have done it on my 1.0 to clear 34" swampers with flat front springs and no firewall work.

Redrilled the spring pad and ubolt plate 1" back.

Works fine but you still have the crap sierra ride.

This was (is ) a temporary fix until I do RUF/PS box shock mounts etc.

Steve.

thanks, i pick up my lwb on saturday so im just trying to figure the best way to do things.

Gwagensteve wrote:That's a kit to run YJ Springs SPOA so it's not reall ymuch help in this application.


Steve.

If you check to the far right of the top pick the spring plate and spring appear to go under the axle, admittedly with YJ's

Here is the thread http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?P=dbbe ... ic=47222.0

i did a "bolt on RUF without a chasis extension and with slightly lifted shock mounts (30mm) works exelent. Diff location is 30mm forward from stock as i re-drilled the perches.


I re drilled the rear mount 30mm back and run a 1 1/2 in longer shackle. (this alone will leave diff in stock position) Then i re-drilled the diff mounts and moved diff forward 30mm. flexs nice and doesnt fowl or hit anything. Spaced bumpstops 20mm gust to stop tyres chewing into guards.




check out the rear spring flex

Full RUF, NT spring spacing, 2" bumpstop extensions, OME N76, 2" BL, full height 35's.

This was quite steep and there is more in it- it's not the best photo.


Steve.

dont see one SR on either of em ..