Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.

Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.

Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?

I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks fellas!

Andres wrote:Been rebuilding the swivel hub on my 60 series, and it involves taking the tierod end out of the steering arm (connected to the hub). In the process of whacking the tierod out of the steering arm, I reckon I've damaged the thread.

Now that I'm putting it back together, the tierod end basically spins in its own joint thing as I try and tighten the nut.

Anyone got any tricks on getting the nut on? I've tried holding it with pliers just to get it started, but it still spins. Otherwise how much should I be expecting to pay to replace the tierod end?

I just about threw the torque wrench over the neighbours fence in frustration so any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks fellas!

if it goes on from underneath, stick a jack under the tie rod so it puts pressure on the taper. this should hold it in tight enough to get the nut on. maybe stick some grease on it and clean it with a thread file if its damaged bad enough you may need to replace it.

other wise if its from the top use a pair of fairly large multi grips. you will get the same result either way.


cheers.

Try a rattle gun to get it to grip the taper then the torque wrench to set the tension.
If you dont like that idea is there anyway to get a bottle jack or a rachet strap around the joint and put tension on it.

Once you get the into the taper it wont spin.

Get yourself a thread file. Clean up the damaged threads.
Use a rattle gun to do up nut before checking with the torque wrench.

Or when your shoulder clicks

Run the castle end of the nut up there first, should clean most of the thread.

Else clamp the TRE into its seat tight but not tight enough to damage it and if you still cant get it on, may as well replace them while it's still all apart

The other option would be to replace the damaged tie rod end as clamping, hammering etc may cause damage and neccesitate changing the part anyway

Run a tap through the nut too.
That solved my tie rod issue today.

The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.

You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.

Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.

And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.

yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.

N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.

You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.

KiwiBacon wrote:

N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.

You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.

Prob with these is they usually split the boot.

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.

AGGGGHHHHHHH NNNNNNOOOOO

Don't bash tie rod end anywhere

RUFF wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:

N*A*M wrote:yep ruffs method is the best. light leverage and hitting the sweet spot does all the work. i'd get a new tie rod end. they are not that dear.

You can buy tie-rod removal devices. It's just a little forked clamp.
Preload that, then hit it as suggested above.

Prob with these is they usually split the boot.

Exactly - there is a better kind (harder to find) - which works as a puller - so no hammer needed and the boot stays intact.

Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.

I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Pickle forks are butch but effective, might be best though only if you are replacing the ball joint due to the force applied and risk of splitting the boot.

I have a puller style and it still takes some taps on the sweet spot to get it to release, and boy, does it go off with a bang

Steve.

If im replacing a tie rod and i have a ball joint splitter(pickle fork) i will use it but they make a huge mess of the boot and quite often the ball joint as well.

To help fis the threads you could use a Tap & Die kit, just make sure it is the correct die before using it.

If you have curled threads this may re-alin the threads, if the end is stuffed well could be stuffed but might get away with using a metal stand grinder and clean up the end of the rod try a nut over the end to check that it is fixed.

May help?

RUFF wrote:

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.

You should never hit the top of a tie rod end at all. EVER.

Always leave the nut on a few turns then with a bar leaver down on the steering arm with a decent amount of force but not enough to bend the arm then wack the side of the arm the tie rod is bolted into with a BFH. It should pop with only a couple of hits. Maybe a few untill you get used to how hard you need to hit it. But never hit the tie rod anywhere.

And to re-fit, place the tie rod in the taper and then just lightly jack it into place to hold it from turning.

Sounds great , only difference to Tonys is i prefer a medium sized hammer , Sharp fast blow , "impact" ,( lever is important)

Loanrangie wrote:The trick to removing these things is to screw the nut down so its level with the top of the thread so when you hammer it you dont damage the thread -or use a bit of hard wood on top before belting it.

SPOT ON!



how do you get your spark plugs out of ya pombus? rattle gun?

If you look here

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.

toaddog wrote:If you look here

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

I have the one on the left.
They are magic. Separates without damage every time.

Yes this is exactly the same one I have. No damage, no hard work.
Doesn't hurt the boots at all.