Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I sheared my rear hub studs off again this weekend

and im getting mighty dang tired of it

Has anyone done the upgrade to 10mm studs ?

is the mod worth the time or should i just keep saving for 2.5t rockwells ?

yes I have done it.

yes it is worth it.

Don Kyatt's have the studs as an aftermarket kit, with the stud, nut, cone washer, and flat washer. 1 stud per kit, think they are $3 or $4 each, around $20/wheel. I think toyota sells them similarly but for more $$.

you need to make or purchase a special countersink drill bit to enlarge the tapered holes for the larger cone washers - I made one from a standard countersink drill bit, turned it against a grinder to get the angle then used an angle grinder to re-cut the tooth clearances. The steel in the locking hubs and rear flanges is not very hard and cuts nicely even with a cheap booty jabber tool.

you need M10x1.25 intermediate and plug taps, and although it can be done on the truck it's better to pull the hub spindles and drill out the holes in a drill press to ensure they are parallel to each other and the axle.

it may be necessary to find alternative flat washers with smaller outside diameter, wheels with a small inner hole may not clear the fat washers that come with the studs.

it actually makes your hubs look pretty butch, as opposed to the gay 8mm ones that to me look pretty woosie.

cheers

Brian

Hi
Have spoken to guys who have done the mod, question is why is it shearing? Usually is due to auto loka operation jarring the smallish diameter threaded studs, but can also be a bent diff that is putting pressure on things.
Andrew

Thanks dumbdunce, ill give the don a call

and get ori to machine my hubs and axles

dow50r, the 8mm studs have sheared on me 6 times now.

the axle is straight, the locker was in 4 of the times and not in 2 of the times

shock loads have had little to do with it, i load the drivetrain up, but avoid snapping the pedal.

the 8mm studs are just not up to it i guess.

ill let you know how i go.

Gday
I sheared a set of studs, and found when i placed the axle in situ, there was a gap at the front side (between the mating surfaces) of a few mm where the back was flush.
New (preloved) housing fixed the problem.
Andrew

Ive done mine once caused buy running 383 chev with foot on throttel when landing continuasly in one whinch challange.

I feel if you hit the side of the axel to pop cones out they dont reseat properly when you put them back in so you need to keep retitening them as they seat back in properly over time ive been doing this and had no more problems and i run a detroit locker .

I have also been told that you just drill them out and fit 10mm unbreakos (i dont no how they spell it )and the people that have done this havnt fitted any cone washers and solved there problems.

dumbdunce wrote:yes I have done it.

yes it is worth it.

Don Kyatt's have the studs as an aftermarket kit, with the stud, nut, cone washer, and flat washer. 1 stud per kit, think they are $3 or $4 each, around $20/wheel. I think toyota sells them similarly but for more $$.

you need to make or purchase a special countersink drill bit to enlarge the tapered holes for the larger cone washers - I made one from a standard countersink drill bit, turned it against a grinder to get the angle then used an angle grinder to re-cut the tooth clearances. The steel in the locking hubs and rear flanges is not very hard and cuts nicely even with a cheap booty jabber tool.

you need M10x1.25 intermediate and plug taps, and although it can be done on the truck it's better to pull the hub spindles and drill out the holes in a drill press to ensure they are parallel to each other and the axle.

it may be necessary to find alternative flat washers with smaller outside diameter, wheels with a small inner hole may not clear the fat washers that come with the studs.

it actually makes your hubs look pretty butch, as opposed to the gay 8mm ones that to me look pretty woosie.

cheers

Brian

DUDE we need some pics!!

even if you want to email them to me only and not share!!

just pulled another 6 8mm studs from some old hubs, going wheeling tomorrow, if they snap, ill go 10mm next week.

The cone washers i use are farked also (warped, dont seat the best) but the axle is flush on the hub.

the two studs that are fixed in the hub (that i guess locate the axle) have also sheared off, i have heard that people just drill these out and fit the larger 10mm ones, instead of machining the 6 stud holes out and tapering the axle for larger cones.

has anyone just done this ?

I need to come around to team special soonish to get my hubs fixed up i keep looking at the oil dripping out and just waiting for the remaing bolts to sheer off.

monty carts says his are leaking too since I put his locker in, he should have budgeted for wheel bearings and seals eh if you want the upgrade go to kyatts and buy the studs and let me know when you want it done. it is a bit time comsuming because its fiddly, takes 1.5 - 2 hours per side to do properly (longer if there are busted off studs in there)


Bj the ones I have done are on Matt Pascoe's HZJ75 with the springover, I know I don't have any close-up shots of the hub studs but when I see him next I'll get some pics, might be this weekend as I think we are going to attack winchbreak on sunday.

can i just fit a pair of 78/79 series hubs ?

they use the 10mm studs and all i would need to do is taper drill the axle for the bigger cones

BJ, would this work ?

May aswell put the whole diff in disc rearend and all.
Same width as a 40.

planb wrote:can i just fit a pair of 78/79 series hubs ?

they use the 10mm studs and all i would need to do is taper drill the axle for the bigger cones

BJ, would this work ?

Pics would be awesome dumbdunce.

PlanB! I do not think it will work. The stud size increase happened in 1998, when they went to 5 stud (see where im coming from yet?)
Other than that though it is a novel approach, but i thought the spindles had changed to accomodate bigger bearings (although im probably wrong) so a few minor issues... BUT!! If you could get the complete 78/79 series hubs cheap enough, you could rape all the 10mm stuff off them (studs/nuts/cones/washers/guids studs) and be good to drill your own hub and axle.

dow50r wrote:May aswell put the whole diff in disc rearend and all.
Same width as a 40.

but then you need new gay wheels with new gay 5 stud patteren, and often new gay 16s!! If I had heaps of money i would buy a 100 series diff and use that!! MMMM PIMP!!

bj on roids wrote:

dow50r wrote:May aswell put the whole diff in disc rearend and all.
Same width as a 40.

but then you need new gay wheels with new gay 5 stud patteren, and often new gay 16s!! If I had heaps of money i would buy a 100 series diff and use that!! MMMM PIMP!!

sounds gay

i guess il just have to pull my hubs and machine them.

MMmm you could save face somewhat and use the Dudelux 16 inch splitties....must be the 75 dic rear diff that fits straight in (with 8mm studs)
Wonder if the axles off the 78/9 are swappable ;-)
Andrew

i thought all 75/78/79 rears were drums ?

splitties would look cool in black with my 38s

later rears were disc. pics are coming, might see him this weekend.

planb wrote:i thought all 75/78/79 rears were drums ?

splitties would look cool in black with my 38s

around 1990 we started to see discs, and around 1995, we started to get them in almost everything.

Sold! Can anyone tell me where to get the correct countersink drill bits for the cone washers?

Dave