Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone had it done up here?

And not had it stuffed up?

Putting in lockers and 4.11's and don't want to break 'em.

I pegged both my diffs a while back !
a lot of setting up first up , but worked well .
i've got some pics if you want .

Yes pls, was nearly going to give up on this...

Where's you get the phosphor bronze from?

I'm in brisbane , can't think of the name at the min !
give me your email i'll send some pics ,might help in the set up

Can you send me some photos to please???

I have just installed front and rear maxi drive lockers with 4.11 CW&P's and was just looking into the diff pegging thing...

THis has renewed my enthusiasm to get it done...

Cheers

Andrew

Didn't reddo post a good writeup

Yup see here:-

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 2&start=60

PS the second one is easier!

up2nogood wrote:Yes pls, was nearly going to give up on this...

Where's you get the phosphor bronze from?

Don't use phosphor bronze. Phosphor bronze is attacked by the extreme pressure additives in diff oil.

Leaded bronze is an alternative that is good for bearings. The strongest of the readily available bronzes is aluminium bronze (has superior mechanical properties to phosphor bronze). The reason aluminium bronze is not used as often as some of the other bronzes, is that it requires good lubrication - something that should not be a problem in a diff.

Thanks John, very good point!

Bush65 wrote:

up2nogood wrote:Yes pls, was nearly going to give up on this...

Where's you get the phosphor bronze from?

Don't use phosphor bronze. Phosphor bronze is attacked by the extreme pressure additives in diff oil.

Leaded bronze is an alternative that is good for bearings. The strongest of the readily available bronzes is aluminium bronze (has superior mechanical properties to phosphor bronze). The reason aluminium bronze is not used as often as some of the other bronzes, is that it requires good lubrication - something that should not be a problem in a diff.

most of the good GL5 gear lubes should be yellow metal safe so it shouldn't be a problem. My understanding is that few blenders use un-reacted sulphur (olefin sulphide) these days, which is what reacts with bronze/brass/copper.

this is from a blender on another forum

The Sulfur and phosphorus EP compounds in the older formulas would stain and corrode copper alloys of brass and or bronze.

Today's modern EP additive packs contain chemicals called "metal deactivators" and corrosion inhibitors which keep the copper alloy metals from corroding; I.E, they "buffer" the EP package and prevent copper alloy metals from corrosion while allowing the EP package to protect the gear teeth and bearings.