Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I know a lockright will lock under power but what about when no power is on? like idling down a steep hill. Will they stay locked then? I checked their site but it didn't really say.
Edit: The reason I ask is I currently have open centres and if a wheel looses traction on steep or slippery ground, the car picks up speed. I know this won't happen with a spool or CIG but nothanks.

hmm...good question. I have a lockrite in the front of my zook and recently went down a really steep very greasy off camber hill (yes the DSE had graded it so it sloped down off the side of the hill ) So to counter that i was facing into the bank engine braking down in 1st low. When it started getting too sideways i'd point the wheels down the hill and it seemed to bring the car aorund pretty easily suggesting that the diff wasn't locked at that point.

I reckon just email Powertrax and ask them....

info@powertrax.com

http://www.powertrax.com/index.html

Even if you find that they don't unlock in these situations still go for them as they make driving the Sh*t a lot easier and more exciting!

cheers
Dan

They can be reluctant to unlock when decending. I have noted that when descending in Noel's car when he had a lockright in the front the steering would get very very heavy and the car would want to follow the camber.

Noel has since gone airlocker in the front and there is no doubt that is the best way to deal with the front if you have the moolah or still have a kidney to spare.

Lockrights seem quite variable in how much torque is required to unlock them. This might be a setup issue, but I have also seen them too loose and actually unlocking under load. (sounded terrible ) some people love them though.

Steve.

i used to run lockrights front and rear in one of my old rigs. i found that they never unlocked at all as there is not enough weight in the zook for them to work properly. my opinion i would say save your money and weld em up.



cheers joel

i got lockrites front and rear and they work fine they stay locked most of the time unless turning hard

is it something to do with setting backlash correctly also? i really dont know but if it tends to be so variable it may be set by differently by joe bloggs as opposed to a diff/transmission place?

I had mine set by a guy who has been installing them for years at a 4x4 mechanic and I've had no issues unlocking and locking at all....it performs as described on the website and in instructions.

Shortcuts suck as i've found out. Get it done properly and you won't have a problem.

i fitted mine myself (4wd systems lokka) love it only time it unlocks if i steer full lock either way apart from thatt its locked great couldnt be happier with it

I have welded rear and lockright up front.
I am very happy with it.
Especially down hills on tight turns.
I still think you benefit from power steer with lokka or weld.
christover

tuffsahara wrote:i fitted mine myself (4wd systems lokka) love it only time it unlocks if i steer full lock either way apart from thatt its locked great couldnt be happier with it

I'm not having a go, if your happy that's cool, but I see that as one of the problems. when descending, the steering loads up and the car wants to follow the camber rather than turning.

PS By design, a lock right will not permit a wheel to turn slower than the crownwheel so I think they will be at their worst when descending in terms of how much they push the car around.

I know that the car will "fall" when it picks a wheel up but this can be countered by brake modulation. some of this "fall" is helpful IMHO as it releases bind out of the car and will help to settle it rather than picking up.

conventional wisdom for airlockers is to disengage when descending.

just my 2C.

steve.

joshnz1 wrote:i got lockrites front and rear and they work fine they stay locked most of the time unless turning hard

Same here but trying to steer when in 4x4 is a bit hard!

Its the limits of the design , its whats termed as a 2 way locker ,
The pins push out on the plates either in foward or reverse , to release they need to be running at the same speed as the ring gear or pins .
not a bad thing as oppoed to a 1 way or 1.5 way , a one way ony locks in a foward direction , and operates as an open diff in reverse ,
so going down hill under engine braking is equivelent to reveres to the plates in the locker creating an open diff in these circumstances.


I personaly don,t like them , watching them working there is huge impacts thrown thru the axles c/vs ,
But a friend used these and probly fitted half of all of them in sydney back a few years ,and
He told me the best of them is actually the one that uses the original side gears in the diff .

Gwagensteve wrote:

tuffsahara wrote:i fitted mine myself (4wd systems lokka) love it only time it unlocks if i steer full lock either way apart from thatt its locked great couldnt be happier with it

I'm not having a go, if your happy that's cool, but I see that as one of the problems. when descending, the steering loads up and the car wants to follow the camber rather than turning.

PS By design, a lock right will not permit a wheel to turn slower than the crownwheel so I think they will be at their worst when descending in terms of how much they push the car around.

I know that the car will "fall" when it picks a wheel up but this can be countered by brake modulation. some of this "fall" is helpful IMHO as it releases bind out of the car and will help to settle it rather than picking up.

conventional wisdom for airlockers is to disengage when descending.

just my 2C.

steve.

fair point seems ok for me but hasnt let me down as for descending it hasnt cause a problem as yet

I would make sure they are put in properly if they dont click while going round corners on tarmac watch out mine never did and it snapped a lock plate in four.
If you dont believe me i will post a photo Richmond gears locker

btw. if u break a rear tailshaft

watch out for the driving home with a front locker in Fwd. can be a handfull

nicbeer wrote:btw. if u break a rear tailshaft

watch out for the driving home with a front locker in Fwd. can be a handfull

X2

Dunno bout that it would be ideal to actually get you home wish i had have had a locker in the front when i snapped both unis in mine.

I have Lockrites in both axles of my rig and I have yet to have a problem with them un-locking on a down hill. My biggest issue with the is the popping an clunking. If I had it to do again I would run a spool in the rear and a Lockrite up front.

Know where i can get a cheap spool for the rear??

http://lowrangeoffroad.com/samaxles.htm about half way down @ $109 US

You can also find it at http://www.trailtough.com who is the manufacturer.

The shipping will probably kill the decent price unless ya'll have a local dealer that sells Trail Tough parts.

sierrafreak wrote:Know where i can get a cheap spool for the rear??

Do you want a mini-spool, or a full spool?
www.roadlessgear.com also sell mini spools for zooks. Good to deal with. But, why not just weld it, same outcome, cheaper, and zook diffs are everywhere so if you dont like it, just get a new one.
Layto....

find me another rear diff and i will weld but i cant seem to find any??