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What manual box to use?

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:18 pm
by Nev62
Don't want to rebuild the slush box (again) so going to a manual. Only question is what manual?

1988 FJ62 Landcrusier, 6.5lt GM diesel, box must be able to take engine (it kills toyota slush boxes)

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:45 pm
by dumbdunce
the A440F auto is very strong. if you had it rebuilt and the engine killed it in a short time, it wasn't done right. consider your 6.5 (unless it is turbo?) makes approx 120kW/390Nm and the toyota 1HD-FT (4.2 turbo multivalve) makes 125kW/380Nm, the 1FZ-FE makes 155kW and 375Nm and that same gearbox is fitted standard to 80/100 series cruisers behind these engines, with warranty, and running strong for 200,000km+ without any drama. you can have your valve body fiddled with and the clutches beefed up if you think the gearbox needs a little extra something to cope with your 'big' motor but the truth is it's not really any bigger than the standard enignes plonked in front of that gearbox.

if you really want a strong manual to put behind it, you could use a H151/150 from 80 series but they are expensive and you will need extensive modifications to the vehicle to make it fit; probably more than the vehicle is worth - different bellhousing, move crossmember, possibly even move engine, tailshafts, not to mention you will need a flywheel and clutch (these alone will cost $1000). I estimate drive in/drive out cost to put any manual gearbox in your machine is conservatively around the $5k mark. the cheap, quick and dirty way to do it would be to find (a) a cheap chev bellhousing to fit H55F (4x 6x 7x series) gearbox, obviously a good H55F with transfer (although you can use the transfer off your auto, and it is better as it probably has roller bearings on the idler shaft and lower low range gearing), at least it will be slightly more bolt together solution but nowhere near as strong as the A440F you already have or the H15xF.

better to stick with the auto, the lower overdrive ratio of the manuals will mean you need to change diff ratios or fit bigger tyres or the 6.5 will be revving its nuts off on the highway.

sell it and buy an adequate 80 series ;)

cheers

DD

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:23 pm
by Nev62
dumbdunce wrote: if you really want a strong manual to put behind it, you could use a H151/150 from 80 series but they are expensive and you will need extensive modifications to the vehicle to make it fit; probably more than the vehicle is worth - different bellhousing, move crossmember, possibly even move engine, tailshafts, not to mention you will need a flywheel and clutch (these alone will cost $1000). I estimate drive in/drive out cost to put any manual gearbox in your machine is conservatively around the $5k mark.
DD
Hey $5000 means I would save $1000 over getting the 440 rebult to suit the 6.5 (quoted price is $6000). This is the third time and each one has been a "heavy duty" rebuild. I would have change left over if I fit a 6 speed Tremec this time.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:13 am
by slosh
I got an 80 auto and t/fer, low km's for $650.
Wholesale automatics in Victoria know a lot about Cruiser auto's...
There is the 4l80e box from GM trucks that would bolt up to the chev but then you need adaptor to the tcase... all $$.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:43 am
by Nev62
slosh wrote: Wholesale automatics in Victoria know a lot about Cruiser auto's...
Yep they do but these are the guys who want to charge me $6000 for the 440 auto (changeover) :cry:

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:34 am
by dumbdunce
nobody said Wholesale autos was cheap :D - there are heavy duty rebuilds and heavy duty rebuilds. those autos can be found for cheap in good second hand condition, as I have stated above they are certainly good for the power you are putting through it, if you have had 'rebuilds' and the box hasn't stood up to it, something is not right. my opinion is you are throwing good money after bad both if you stump up $6k for a rebuilt auto or any amount on a manual conversion. find a good second hand unit, slap it in, get a new converter, perhaps revise your driving style if necessary, but it certainly is not that motor killing those gearboxes.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:48 am
by Wild West
I knew the 6.5L diesels didnt make a lot of power but i always thought the torque rating was huge. I thought they made a lot more than 390Nm.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:14 am
by dumbdunce
GM probably quotes SAE gross torque/power which would make that engine around 500Nm but to compare apples with apples I have quoted approx DIN/JIS net figures which is what the gearbox has to acutally cope with, not what the engine makes if you take off all the accessories.

all engines vary, if you compare two 6.5's there could be a 20% variation between the two of them for no apparent reason, the bottom line is the gearbox should be good for it, there's got to be dozens of 6.5's, even turbos, pushing cruisers around through A440/442 gearboxes - the fault lies not with the gearbox and the solution is not to throw a stack of cash at it for a manual conversion.

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:37 pm
by krf_bb
a good auto is the turbo 700