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Transfer case gears.
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:19 pm
by foolsp33d
Well I started stripping my spare transfer for a rebuild, fresh seals, general clean out etc. Are there any specific things i should be aware of or looking for while I do this? gear mesh? wear signs?
Havnt had a chance(keep forgetting) to work out what the ratio of the case is, so if anyone has 'an eye for detail' and can identify what they might be would be greatly appreciated.
Id like to see some of the other t-case topics merged with this one, so we can have a single post and not 15-20 different ones.. but thats just my opinion and im sure people will disagree...
thanks in advance peoples
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:15 pm
by Gwagensteve
The intermediate shaft will be stuffed. Buy a new one.
New thrust washers on the intermediate shaft.
All seals
Pull the steel bung out the case that forms the breather and run a 1/4" bsp tap through the case, fit a 90 deg. elbow and run a breather.
Ps it look s like a WT case based on no handbrake and large flanges, but internally I am not aware of any way to tell easily. The bible has a link to all case types and ratios with photographs, but it coul donly be a 1.3 NT or WT case or a shift light 1.0 case, so 2.2 low (1.3) or 2.55 low (for the 1.0)
PS what was the problem with it? noisy? leaking? I would only pull one down for new gears/hideous noise
Steve.
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:28 pm
by foolsp33d
Gwagensteve wrote:The intermediate shaft will be stuffed. Buy a new one.
New thrust washers on the intermediate shaft.
All seals
Pull the steel bung out the case that forms the breather and run a 1/4" bsp tap through the case, fit a 90 deg. elbow and run a breather.
Ps it look s like a WT case based on no handbrake and large flanges, but internally I am not aware of any way to tell easily. The bible has a link to all case types and ratios with photographs, but it coul donly be a 1.3 NT or WT case or a shift light 1.0 case, so 2.2 low (1.3) or 2.55 low (for the 1.0)
PS what was the problem with it? noisy? leaking? I would only pull one down for new gears/hideous noise
Steve.
looked through the bible and at all the different case types.. didnt really get a whole lot out of it..
the case was an extra when i purchased the WT, it was not installed and i was unsure of the overall condition, thus the teardown/rebuild. Originally, this case belonged to Big steve, so its anyones guess really as to what gears are inside, i was told by a relo of his it has ser.1 R/h. in there, but being of noob mind unsure of what to look for
which is where you lot come in!
There was a fair bit of crud on the drain plug when i drained the oil, so i am looking at this rebuild as a positive thing, better the devil you know!
Much appreciated on the quick reply Gwagen! must post a reminder on my 4head to attend the next suzi club meeting..
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:31 pm
by Gwagensteve
Did you check the gearing by counting rotations before you pulled it apart? He may have bought two, but an ex big steve series 1 is currently in "Greg's brothers pool cleaners car"
Sorry, I don't want to offer advice after the face, but I would have put fresh oil in it and run it to assess noise/condition etc before I pulled it apart. You are up far a minimum spend now on at least seals, inter shaft, and bearings and you won't know if it has come up quieter/better than if you had left it alone.
rovkhoppers are a bit of a lottery - some are strong and quiet, some are weak and noisy, some are strong and noisy.
"A very good friend of Greg's" spent plenty money on reco'ing ($395 on parts + labour) a series 3 RH and it came back exactly as noisy as when it went away.
PS, Club meeting tomorrow night
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:00 pm
by Oscars
there is a link on here somewhere which tells u the teeth numbers so u can work it out while apart
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:02 am
by Highway-Star
Pull the steel bung out the case that forms the breather and run a 1/4" bsp tap through the case, fit a 90 deg. elbow and run a breather.
Deviating from original post, but anyway.
Steve, I've been trying to fit a transfer breather for the last couple of days, and this cannot be done unless the transfer is removed from the car, correct? I've borrowed a stuffed transfer and can see why fitting a breather really sucks; I've already got other three breathers done.
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:48 am
by Gwagensteve
I have never tried doing one in the car but I could imagine it would be very difficult, even with a 2" bl.
Even doing one this way (by tapping with a 1/4 bsp tap) with the case assembled could be a problem as it might result in some swarf going through the case from the tap.
One way would be to drain the case, tap it with the case upside down, and then flush through with oil.
Steve.
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:33 pm
by Highway-Star
Thanks Steve, I'll have to try some abstract thinking
, or do more work than I wanted to. Yeah, I figured tapping it would cause some unwanted metal shavings.