Outer Limits 4x4 Board

tossing up wat diffs to put under my zook swinging to ward mq cause there strong and cheap.
have been told they will bolt straight up to a wide track front
mine is runnign 1L diffs atm. will i have to cut spring perches off and weld on new ones? is the front diff cast?
will i just have to cut perces off rear and weld on new ones?
im running a pretty big spua suspention set up now will i be able to keep it if i go mqs or will have to change it?
am i better to go lux diffs?( id preffer mq cause my tow rig is one)
wat other parts should i get?
i spose i should shave the diffs as well while there out.
any one got any close up picks of this conversion?
any help muchly appreciated.
thanx
mick

bigmick wrote:tossing up wat diffs to put under my zook swinging to ward mq cause there strong and cheap.
have been told they will bolt straight up to a wide track front
mine is runnign 1L diffs atm. will i have to cut spring perches off and weld on new ones? is the front diff cast?
will i just have to cut perces off rear and weld on new ones?
im running a pretty big spua suspention set up now will i be able to keep it if i go mqs or will have to change it?
am i better to go lux diffs?( id preffer mq cause my tow rig is one)
wat other parts should i get?
i spose i should shave the diffs as well while there out.
any one got any close up picks of this conversion?
any help muchly appreciated.
thanx
mick

mq diffs are a great conversion.. and yes strong as.. um i think its sierrajim you need to talk to for this? if its the right person he is a wealth of info on this conversion..

umm, another thing that i didnt consider talking to you earlier mick, about the mq's SUA you might ( MIGHT being the keyword ) fing that the pumpkin may interfere with your sump. not completely sure but could be an issue.


joel

I helped Mock set up his MQ diffs in Critta, which was NT spring spaced and running a 1.6. Mosk built an overwidth MQ diff so the pumpkin as further to the left than it woudl be with WT spring spacing (all the width was added on the short side) and he ran a bumpstop on the clutch cable mount to stop unwanted contact, but this was a special case (no bumpstop spacing, soft springs, offset diff)

sierraJim also ran a 1.6 and WT spring spacing, and I don't think he had clearance issues.

The spring pad on the D/S front is cast into the housing so that is the limiting factor to axle positioning, hence the WT spring spacing being required.

The front diff can't usefully be shaved (cast housing/ bolted cover) but the rear can be shaved pretty heavily.

They are about 100mm wider than WT sierra from memory.

Mock ran MQ front springs all round on Critta when he did it, these are longer than sierra rears and have quite a bit of arch in aftermarket form. They are wider though so it is a bit of work to run them, but if the spring spacing has to change anyway it might be worth looking at.

Parts are cheap ($33 CV's from a wrecker!) and the petrol diff ratios are a good choice for a sierra at 4.6:1

Mock ran an MQ brake booster, then went wilwood manual eventually I think. Not sure what Jim did.

They will work SPUA but some bumpstop spacing will help. Not sure about pumpkin/fuel tank clearance as neither car had stock fuel arrangements.

I do think this is a geeod swap, far, far better than hilux, maybe better than 60 series (smaller front diff, lighter) but maybe not quite as good as bundera (if you can find them)

Just some pointers.

Steve.

when you say wide track spacing do you mean cutting off wide track spring mounts on out side of chassis and welding them onto my chasis.
all i need now is some mq diffs.
did yous get custom shafts made up.

Yeah, basically you will need to move your front springs outboard of the chassis to make it work. This might be a PITA as you are SR, but shoudln't be the end of the world.

Do you mean custom driveshafts? I helped mock with some bootyfab to get his shafts done, (amd don't really recall what we did) but if you get a donor MQ use the front shaft for the rear as is already has a double cardan joint on it.

Axleshafts all stay stock.

Ps 1.0/lj diffs are surprisingly strong but I'm surprised they lasted at all with 36's/dual transfers/locked.

Steve

Gwagensteve wrote:Mock ran an MQ brake booster, then went wilwood manual eventually I think. Not sure what Jim did.

I do think this is a geeod swap, far, far better than hilux, maybe better than 60 series (smaller front diff, lighter) but maybe not quite as good as bundera (if you can find them)

I ran an MQ booster. Stopped REALLY well. It was a pain in the butt to fit to the 1.0ltr NT firewall. Also required mods to the steering shaft due to the size of the booster drum.

MQ vs 60 series depends on what you want. MQ stuff is pretty strong straight up, the steering knuckles are VERY strong and CV's seem to be "ok". We're running MQ diffs in the buggy with heat treated Yuri 4x4 GQ patrol CV's in them. We were breaking MQ CV's fairly often on 37's but the Yuri CV's are still good after their first comp (better going than the MQ ones and stock GQ also).

If you want to go to big tyres at some stage and drive like a crazed lunatic 60 series diffs are probably the best option. There are many upgrades available for 60 series diffs off the shelf. A Zook on 60 diffs with 30 spline longfields would be pretty strong and reliable.