Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just wondering if anyone has done this ????
What problems you faced in doing the conversion ????
Did you use Marks adaptors ????
Looking at using a VZ SS 05 model motor with auto
Cheers Dan

saw some pics of a orange uted 60 with a gen3 in it. He uses it for hill climbs.

Looked like a good fit. a carby 350 fits so i dont think there would be any problems fitting a gen3 in there.

The electrics are going to be the pain, but thats the same for dropping a gen 3 in anything.

Wiring is piss easy, just fitted a Gen 3 to my jag, need a rear drop sump and pick up and they're very close in overall dimensions to a standard small block chev

Where is the best place to get a rear sump & pickup ???
What Is the rear sump off ???
What bits do I need off the car ???
The one I'm looking at comes with comp harness motor & auto accellerator pedal
What else should I get ???
Cheers Dan

Eagles in Dandenong has rear drop sumps for sale around $350, they are off trucks apparently.

chev silverados run gen111 architecture motors. Iron blocks, alloy heads their sumps might be what your looking for, since they run a huge mother cross member under the motor and diff in there too for the 4x4 models

cheers

There was a 60 series Ute at Tuff Truck a few years ago with a Gen III in it.
Snapped the rear pinion off trying to do a burnout in the camping area

MUD000 wrote:Where is the best place to get a rear sump & pickup ???
What Is the rear sump off ???
Cheers Dan

a 6L corvette sump would be perfect thats what alot of the buggys running 5.7Ls are using

why would you waste the extra time and effort with VZ fly by wire?

Internally very much the same as a VT Gen3...

cloughy wrote:Wiring is piss easy, just fitted a Gen 3 to my jag, need a rear drop sump and pick up and they're very close in overall dimensions to a standard small block chev

What's your overall assessment of the motor Cloughy?

I spoke to a holden dealer & they said that the earlier models had lots of oil problems & the new ones they haven't had one come back yet
At the moment I'll be using the Marks tranfer adaptor & engine mounts
I'll need to get a surge tank
Spoke to another person today & he said I'll need the dash loom as well as to get the fly by wire to work
This is why i'm asking some questions on here to see what problems others have faced
Cheers Dan

Apparently the old ones had oil problems because the dipstick was to short, therefore giving false readings.

cloughy wrote:Wiring is piss easy, just fitted a Gen 3 to my jag, need a rear drop sump and pick up and they're very close in overall dimensions to a standard small block chev

Cloughy, can we get more info on the wiring? thnks

X2
CheeDan

Agghh, basically there is 3 plugs which you splice into, as with this everything for the auto and engine is in the one loom, unlike others where you have to make parts up for oxy sensors, speeds sensors etc..

essentially out of those 3 plugs you have numerous supplies that need to be feed from an EFI relay (ignition on) a permanent power, a switching neg to control the fuel pump and the fans, you'll need to make relay blocks up for the EFI relay, fuel pump relay and Thermo relays, you'll aslo need to power up the diagnostics plug, it only has one communication lead from the puta and you can liven and earth the others up from in the car, just need to know which ones

You'll also need to get the VATS turned off, you should be able to take the puta in to someone with LS1 edit and they should have a dummy plug they use for bench tunes, ones VATS is deleted you dont need anything else to run the motor, Powertrain interface module, ABS, throttle relaxer all becomes reduntant

Mine was VX ss series II so no fly by wire

The easiest EFI engine to wire I have done so far, I've done a few to

chimpboy wrote:

cloughy wrote:Wiring is piss easy, just fitted a Gen 3 to my jag, need a rear drop sump and pick up and they're very close in overall dimensions to a standard small block chev

What's your overall assessment of the motor Cloughy?

Mmmm, what do want to know, the have 6 bolts mains, which the side bolts actually pull the block into the caps I seen it flex

tiny conrod bolts, snapped big ends not machined, tiny littl pistons

But they make 300 odd rear wheel horsepower with a cam and springs

cloughy wrote:Agghh, basically there is 3 plugs which you splice into, as with this everything for the auto and engine is in the one loom, unlike others where you have to make parts up for oxy sensors, speeds sensors etc..

essentially out of those 3 plugs you have numerous supplies that need to be feed from an EFI relay (ignition on) a permanent power, a switching neg to control the fuel pump and the fans, you'll need to make relay blocks up for the EFI relay, fuel pump relay and Thermo relays, you'll aslo need to power up the diagnostics plug, it only has one communication lead from the puta and you can liven and earth the others up from in the car, just need to know which ones

You'll also need to get the VATS turned off, you should be able to take the puta in to someone with LS1 edit and they should have a dummy plug they use for bench tunes, ones VATS is deleted you dont need anything else to run the motor, Powertrain interface module, ABS, throttle relaxer all becomes reduntant

Mine was VX ss series II so no fly by wire

The easiest EFI engine to wire I have done so far, I've done a few to

A revised wiring diagram will be fine thanks...

RED60 wrote:

cloughy wrote:Agghh, basically there is 3 plugs which you splice into, as with this everything for the auto and engine is in the one loom, unlike others where you have to make parts up for oxy sensors, speeds sensors etc..

essentially out of those 3 plugs you have numerous supplies that need to be feed from an EFI relay (ignition on) a permanent power, a switching neg to control the fuel pump and the fans, you'll need to make relay blocks up for the EFI relay, fuel pump relay and Thermo relays, you'll aslo need to power up the diagnostics plug, it only has one communication lead from the puta and you can liven and earth the others up from in the car, just need to know which ones

You'll also need to get the VATS turned off, you should be able to take the puta in to someone with LS1 edit and they should have a dummy plug they use for bench tunes, ones VATS is deleted you dont need anything else to run the motor, Powertrain interface module, ABS, throttle relaxer all becomes reduntant

Mine was VX ss series II so no fly by wire

The easiest EFI engine to wire I have done so far, I've done a few to

A revised wiring diagram will be fine thanks...

You swallow right

I've got diagrams I can email, give me your address

Nothing of what I've done, its all stored in my little ugly noggin

VT - VX used 9 pound rings VY on used 15 pound rings, vx on had slightly better LS6 manifold worth a few hp but nothing special.

Even the later models used oil its common just better but not gone, its how most new v8s are built low tension for better economy and slighty more power.

The dipstick comment is right they extended them later on so when you filled em you fit either 5.5litres or 6 upto 6.3 in current models.

This was to stop the oil warning buzzer on hard launces and to make people think it was ok to burn as the stick still read between full and empty.

These motors basically from VT to VZ will make 240+kw at the wheels without opening them, even a baby 224/228 cam will take em to 270+rwkw on stock heads.

So far I've been told I need to get
the pedal
Rear sump
The actual wiring loom for the car as there is something I need out of the dash section
The motor comes with engine lom engine comp etc
The engine mounts I'll get from Marks
Transfer adator from Marks
Ive got a mate trying to get me a wiring diagram from holden
I'll need a surge tank
Do you think factory 60 radiator will do
Cheers Dan

Well I got my rear sump on Friday
So it'll get under way soon as I'm just sourceing all my parts first then I'll rip out the 12HT & do the swap
Cant wait
Cheers Dan