FLEX...??
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:25 pm
I want to get my hilux to felx what do i have to do..? it only has staned shocks and leafs its a 96 model and running on leafs how do i get flex..?
Not sure exactly i know it would drop significantly if you were towing something.Thumper1 wrote:if i take leafs out will that make the height of the car drop..?
Asuming there long enough when you take the leafs out and flex it it would be fine.. just depends how much removing a few leafs lets it flex i guess.Thumper1 wrote:thats ok but i dont tow would i need bigger shocks as there all factory the back flex is not bad atm and the shocks extend a fair way but the front dont at all
The above pic is coil suspension i doubt you would get that good of modified stock leaf springs.DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T do extended shackles or remove leaves on std springs!!!! Its all in the shocks.. However if you want to get cheap flex on a hilux put your rear leaves(remove the flat H/Duty leaves) in the front and re-drill your spring perches 35mm towards the rear which will move your diff forwards 35mm(you will also have to shorten the track bar by 35mm). Extend the front hangers by the difference between the flattened length of the front and rear springs. Get some std IFS hilux rears and remove the two H/Duty leaves. Put them in the rear and extend your shackles by the difference between your old rears and the new IFS ones. Get some rancho 5012's and measure the compressed length(you will need to make or have made new shock mounts made) to work out the positioning flex the truck up with no shocks in and from the bottom mounting possition you can then work out where the top mount will need to be. Make sure its fully flexed up (on the bump stops). A couple of more tricks to cheap flex is to get a die grinder and grind a shampher on the spring eyes. The other thing you can do is open up the leave retainers this will allow the pack to open up like a hand of cards. All this should cost no more than $600 if you can do most of the labour yourself. OH and by the way it will flex as much as in the photo's above and cost no where near as much
GOOD LUCK!!!
MM bundy with second hand ome 80 coils ome shox, remove 1 front and rear diff bolt.... doohDR Frankenstine wrote:What a load of crap... Dollar for dollar leaves will out flex coils any day. The only time coils out flex leaves is when a heap of money is thrown at it. Now tell me this. You have a std leafer and a std equivallent coily You have $600 bucks to throw at it. Which will flex more
I REST MY CASE
Exactly... see im not totaly stupid peoplechunderlicious wrote:uummmmmm coils. 4x18 inch shocks. i know what flexes better.
Mate I disagree with a few of your points. You can remove the shocks altogether and try and flex up stock hilux suspension and you will get bugger all compression as there is simply not enough weight in the back end of a tray back ute. The only real solution is add lots of weight or run softer packs. The easiest method is to remove one of the overload leaves. Opening the leaf retainer works quite well on the front but produces axle hop in the rear ( at least it does on my truck )DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T do extended shackles or remove leaves on std springs!!!! Its all in the shocks.. However if you want to get cheap flex on a hilux put your rear leaves(remove the flat H/Duty leaves) in the front and re-drill your spring perches 35mm towards the rear which will move your diff forwards 35mm(you will also have to shorten the track bar by 35mm). Extend the front hangers by the difference between the flattened length of the front and rear springs. Get some std IFS hilux rears and remove the two H/Duty leaves. Put them in the rear and extend your shackles by the difference between your old rears and the new IFS ones. Get some rancho 5012's and measure the compressed length(you will need to make or have made new shock mounts made) to work out the positioning flex the truck up with no shocks in and from the bottom mounting possition you can then work out where the top mount will need to be. Make sure its fully flexed up (on the bump stops). A couple of more tricks to cheap flex is to get a die grinder and grind a shampher on the spring eyes. The other thing you can do is open up the leave retainers this will allow the pack to open up like a hand of cards. All this should cost no more than $600 if you can do most of the labour yourself. OH and by the way it will flex as much as in the photo's above and cost no where near as much
GOOD LUCK!!!
WTF measure a rear pack from fixed pin end to centre bolt now measure the same on a front pack rears will be 50mm shorter. Which if my calculator don't lie it will be 85mm if it's still got a std draglink and it's getting shorted thats one short draglink and torque rod. another thing to do is piss the torque rod off when you get to where your going to wheel it helps but it will wrap the springs a bit when turning never had mine on it was driven for about a year and a good 6months daily driver and it didn't wreck the springsDR Frankenstine wrote:rear leaves(remove the flat H/Duty leaves) in the front and re-drill your spring perches 35mm towards the rear which will move your diff forwards 35mm(you will also have to shorten the track bar by 35mm).
Yep sorry you are correct when using the rear pack you don't have to move your diff forwards on the perch. you only do that when using original fronts. I stand correctedSic Lux wrote:WTF measure a rear pack from fixed pin end to centre bolt now measure the same on a front pack rears will be 50mm shorter. Which if my calculator don't lie it will be 85mm if it's still got a std draglink and it's getting shorted thats one short draglink and torque rod. another thing to do is piss the torque rod off when you get to where your going to wheel it helps but it will wrap the springs a bit when turning never had mine on it was driven for about a year and a good 6months daily driver and it didn't wreck the springsDR Frankenstine wrote:rear leaves(remove the flat H/Duty leaves) in the front and re-drill your spring perches 35mm towards the rear which will move your diff forwards 35mm(you will also have to shorten the track bar by 35mm).