Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have searched but suck at it and havn't read any thing on here about it!

Was talking to mugginsmoo off here a while ago when we went for a wheel and he said if you put a pipe from here to there and there to here it will keep your dizzy from getting wet!

OR AT LEAST THATS WHAT I REMEMBER!

How have people got there dizzy water tight with out salastic?

THANKS

I think in the cheap tricks thread, someone mentioned a kitchen glove and some rubber bands. Each lead goes through a finger of the glove.
Not sure of the exact details, but pretty sure you could get the jist just from that.

there’s my "secret squirrel" way.


or


you could seal the cap on with grease/petroleum jelly



Mitch

just seal it up and if u driving through deep water like in comps or sumthin hook a cheap air compresser up to the breather hole to pressurise it! keeps it cool an wont let water in....

suzuki boy wrote:I have searched but suck at it and havn't read any thing on here about it!

Was talking to mugginsmoo off here a while ago when we went for a wheel and he said if you put a pipe from here to there and there to here it will keep your dizzy from getting wet!

OR AT LEAST THATS WHAT I REMEMBER!

How have people got there dizzy water tight with out salastic?

THANKS

Well im sure it was posted on here somewhere but run a draft thru the dizzy to keep the air ventilated and dry. Assuming you still have the rubber sealing gasket under ur cap, run a vaccum line from the bottom area of the dizzy (under the rotor) into your intake hat(after the airfilter) then run a second line from somewhere above ur first line into the dizzy and plumb this back before the airfilter. This will cause a draft of fresh dry air to circulate thru your dizzy getting rid of any moisture. Again this will not totally make it water tight but will help alot without silicon. Think it was used on the lj80's.
Cheers Dan

lj 50s had a vacum pipe on them look them up you might be able to make some thing up

Might be my memory going bad but I think my LJ50 had a line going
to the heater airbox.... But in any case it deffinately had a vent line.

The dissy was high but in any case it worked.

im gettig old so you might right

mugginsmoo wrote:there’s my "secret squirrel" way.


or


you could seal the cap on with grease/petroleum jelly



Mitch

We need to talk!

Jrzook thanks for that will check it out!

seriously the rubber glove works a treat, spray with silicone or crc to get maximun benifit. cut the fingers of at the tips and seal with grease or petroleum jelly and cable ties.

guarenteed to work

Worth a go i guesse!

What have i got to lose? A glove!

Will do that tommorow night!

Please let us know how it goes. A pic of the glove at work would be good too!

I'm not stop in the water and take a photo of it covered in water!

When it's done i'll get a photo for ya!

Secret Squirrel Way

Get an old stubby holder (should have an old one lying around somewhere) and cut it so that the wetsuit material is flat.

Cut a ring of the material the same shape as the dizzy... may need to take a few goes, as when you shut the clamps, it can pull out of place...

Will be pretty tight to shut, but when clipped on works a treat

Viola - water tight dizzy...

p.s. Has worked heaps of times for my old hilux, and is an easy 'bush fix' for water crossings aswell (dont know about you guys, but a stubby holder is always in my tool kit)

Cut a ring of the material the same shape as the dizzy cap ... Remove the cap, put the ring of wetsuit material in, and replace cap
may need to take a few goes, as when you shut the clamps, it can pull out of place...

Will be pretty tight to shut, but when clipped on works a treat

Viola - water tight dizzy...

Added extra tech...

I could be missing the point here somewhere, but generally,

A) I have not really come across wet electrics as being a big problem on a sierra.

B) If I recall Sierra caps have a vent on them - no amount of sealing the base will help unless the vent is dealt with

C) Running a hose from this vent into the airbox may or may not work as if the cap is not perfectly sealed he vacuum might actually pull water into the cap, very light pressure might be better (as per the LJ50- with air from the heater box)

D)What are you doing in mud/water that deep anyway???? I have seen/done some pretty deep water driven with sierras without a problem

E) I have heared of some guy pressurising all his breathers/diffs etc lightly to actually push water out but the technicalities of doing this look prohibitive to me- how miuh pressure?

F)Silicone dielectric grease might be better than any amount of gloves, stubby holders, plastic bags etc as some water will always get in and if it is a PITA to get it out you might be better with nothing.

G)I hate mud

Gwagensteve wrote:E) I have heared of some guy pressurising all his breathers/diffs etc lightly to actually push water out but the technicalities of doing this look prohibitive to me- how miuh pressure?

I've heard of people running around 5PSI into gearboxes, diffs, dizzy's and so on. The air pump off an Air Horn setup seems to do the job.

How big is the tank on those compressors? to my mind a tank is required to allow some head pressure to allow for everthing getting cold and sucking at once... if you get my meaning. Remember too that if the system is "armed" how do you ensure that 5psi in a cold diff doesnt turn to 15 psi in a hot diff - how do you vent to diff to retain pressure but hold pressure across a wide tempterture range.

Maybe I am making it too complicated ( me? surely not!) but because of these problems I think that atmospheric breathers are still the best.

Steve.

Ok, i dont remember the hilux dizzy having a vent - maybe this wont work on a sierra... but might be work a try, if you had a breather hose from the vent to somewhere higher in the engine bay...

Pro's - you dont have a yellow rubber ducky thing covering your dizzy, and no messy petroleum jelly or cable ties

Cons - you destroy a perfectly good stubby holder, so your arvo beer might get warm (easy option - drink it faster).

Note: although mud and river crossings are fun, i prefer the whole 'spend some time picking the best/shallowest path' rather than 'charge on thru regardless'... water over the top of the motor/dizzy is not a good idea at anytime...

Gwagensteve wrote: F)Silicone dielectric grease might be better than any amount of gloves, stubby holders, plastic bags etc as some water will always get in and if it is a PITA to get it out you might be better with nothing.

G)I hate mud

Bingo ... a good bit of dielectric grease with quality plug leads and you will have no water/spark issues .. unless you fill you start filling your petrol tank with water .. no amount of spark will make it burn ..

Having recently found out the hard way that some puddles are WAY deeper that you would ever expect (it was concreted on both sides and it had not rained in weeks .. luckliy I was going slow and stopped as quick as I though "oh poop" half of the bonnet was under water on the little red wagon .. lucky I had redone the leads the weekend before ... it was idling quite happliy with 3 cylinders/sparkplugs under water and i had enough power to reverse out and find a new way home from work that night )

Pop a bit of dielectric grease around the top of the terminals on the dizzy cap, around the plug boots... anywhere you think that water might get in..

A bit of lanolin spray also helps around your actual electrical joins as well (better that WD40) as the lanolin dries and will keep on protecting for months.

Gwagensteve wrote:I could be missing the point here somewhere, but generally,

A) I have not really come across wet electrics as being a big problem on a sierra.

B) If I recall Sierra caps have a vent on them - no amount of sealing the base will help unless the vent is dealt with

C) Running a hose from this vent into the airbox may or may not work as if the cap is not perfectly sealed he vacuum might actually pull water into the cap, very light pressure might be better (as per the LJ50- with air from the heater box)

D)What are you doing in mud/water that deep anyway???? I have seen/done some pretty deep water driven with sierras without a problem

E) I have heared of some guy pressurising all his breathers/diffs etc lightly to actually push water out but the technicalities of doing this look prohibitive to me- how miuh pressure?

F)Silicone dielectric grease might be better than any amount of gloves, stubby holders, plastic bags etc as some water will always get in and if it is a PITA to get it out you might be better with nothing.

G)I hate mud

The deep water wasn't much of a problem at the start but last weekend it happend twice!

Not much trouble to wack some wd40 there but i still would like to drive out ofthem!

It onlystalled when i had the front wheels out and was on an angle!

As for deep water i got through mud that rigs got stuck in but the water was over the bonnet! Will get the vid up soon!

So the stubbie holder will not work?

Will it help? Maybe. Will it make your car immune to deep water? No. Will it be better than dielectric grease? I doubt it. Will it do anything without fixing the breather issue? NO.

Take you cap off and have a look at it. There is a black knob on the cap along with the five holes for the plug wires. This is a breather. You can seal the base up as much as you like but the breather is the key.

Have a think about it-

You are driving along, everything is hot and dry. The engine bay is warm. You drop into a hole, the air in the engine bay suddenly goes from warm and dry to wet and cold. The water comes up and the dizzy starts to cool down. It now draws in steamy warm wet air, which along with the cooling surfaces inside the dizzy, starts to condense. The condensation will cause the ignition breakdown. It is not necessarily because your dizzy is going under the water (because at that point, you will be swimming)

Just run some dielectric grease around the rubber seal on the base (along with all the plug lead boots), but vent the cap into the cabin, or better yet, into your demist duct.

But remember, when you are playing in deep mud/ water, something will always come and get you - it is the most damaging environment you can run your car in. Starter, alternator water pump, every seal in the car, electrical connections - they all hate it. Take the dizzy cap issue as a warning that you are now well outside what suzuki allowed for and you will have to plan/allow for it - water in fuel, condition of gearbox/transfer shifters, water in wheelbearings, condition of the seals on the brake pistons, Unis.. Man, the maintenance never ends.

You will likely run OK for this winter, but as you get towards summer, a whole bunch of things will start crapping out. Just be ready.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Will it help? Maybe. Will it make your car immune to deep water? No. Will it be better than dielectric grease? I doubt it. Will it do anything without fixing the breather issue? NO.

Take you cap off and have a look at it. There is a black knob on the cap along with the five holes for the plug wires. This is a breather. You can seal the base up as much as you like but the breather is the key.

Have a think about it-

You are driving along, everything is hot and dry. The engine bay is warm. You drop into a hole, the air in the engine bay suddenly goes from warm and dry to wet and cold. The water comes up and the dizzy starts to cool down. It now draws in steamy warm wet air, which along with the cooling surfaces inside the dizzy, starts to condense. The condensation will cause the ignition breakdown. It is not necessarily because your dizzy is going under the water (because at that point, you will be swimming)

Just run some dielectric grease around the rubber seal on the base (along with all the plug lead boots), but vent the cap into the cabin, or better yet, into your demist duct.

But remember, when you are playing in deep mud/ water, something will always come and get you - it is the most damaging environment you can run your car in. Starter, alternator water pump, every seal in the car, electrical connections - they all hate it. Take the dizzy cap issue as a warning that you are now well outside what suzuki allowed for and you will have to plan/allow for it - water in fuel, condition of gearbox/transfer shifters, water in wheelbearings, condition of the seals on the brake pistons, Unis.. Man, the maintenance never ends.

You will likely run OK for this winter, but as you get towards summer, a whole bunch of things will start crapping out. Just be ready.

Steve.

Yeah all that makes sence the same as your diff breathers and stuff! It's hot hits cold and does what it does!

As for the maintnence yeah i know! I change the diff oils, most of the oils and stuff after any real muddy trip! Grease up fairly often too. I'm nearly over the mud but cause the zooks just floats through anything!

Getting into the technical hills and stuff now but still if theres a way to cambat this problem why not try it!

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!

Another thing to remember is that the Ozone generated by the operation
of the ignition system is EXTREMELY corrosive.

One of the purposes of dissy venting is to provide a mechanism for the
generated ozone to disperse. The effects of a sealed dissy will be

1/ Corrosion of the metalic components - a worry if you have an
electronic dissy

2/ and a drop in the breakdown voltage of the insulating components

Distributors need to "breath", a mechanism that is sometimes provided
by poorly fitting caps, internal labrynth paths or via external
vent lines.

So a "sealed" dissy may stop the vehicle drowning ( and thats not a
bad thing ) bu it will come at a cost in the longer term.

Hope this is of interest......

MightyMouse wrote: Hope this is of interest......

Always, Ross - lucky I have people like you to cover for me when I am ahouting my mouth off with what sound like unsubstantiated ramblings!

Gwagensteve wrote: lucky I have people like you to cover for me when I am ahouting my mouth off with what sound like unsubstantiated ramblings!

You mean they're not

Gee, quick to sink the slipper there Chris

How's that episode of "pimp my vitara" coming along?

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Gee, quick to sink the slipper there Chris

How's that episode of "pimp my vitara" coming along?

Steve.

We're pimping You've gotta love the bling

Some people have mentioned before about after market leads ,

years ago i found out the hard way they suck , I only used original geniune suzuki leads , they would cost close to a $100 bucks but they carn't be beaten for sealing , in comps i used a surgical glove .

in comps i used a surgical glove ... eww
Hi Larry whats happening?
I got some new leads yesterday (top gun) and they were so tight I thought they were the wrong size till I remembered what the missus always says "if it dosnt fit spit on it"
Not sure how they seal but I dont think they will ever fall off, should have had them at J7 maybe we would have finished the course
Nik