Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys, does any one know how to get better wheel articulation out of a ln65 hilux, without going to coils. I heard that u can place the rear springs in the front and put mazda ute springs in the rear? if so which mazda ute springs do u use??

Nick and Dave both run mazdas in the rear - these apprently bolt into factory hangers

I have just fitted rears in the front, They do give better artic, approach angle and give you good clearance for big tyres.

Remember that you will need to mod the drag link so it may be a good time to go x-over. I can't go x-over because of the Supra sump so have removed the ball from the c-arm and had a taper fitted so I can use an IFS ball joint, chopped original drag link and cut 17mm thread.

which Mazda springs do u use???? and can u use lifted springs in the front??

bubs wrote:Nick and Dave both run mazdas in the rear - these apprently bolt into factory hangers

yeah they do, but you need a longer rear shackle.



NICK

NICK wrote:

bubs wrote:Nick and Dave both run mazdas in the rear - these apprently bolt into factory hangers

yeah they do, but you need a longer rear shackle.



NICK

Nick - what model do i get the springs from ?

big red hilux wrote:which Mazda springs do u use???? and can u use lifted springs in the front??

yes i just fitted a set of 3" lifted OME rears 2 the front after i bent 2 sets of stock rears i found thet they give a better ride than the stocko rears, handles better, flexes sh1tloads better, and moves the diff bout 3" forward and gets it away from the firewall

thanks hypo did u need to use x over steering??
:mad: :mad:

yes but i already had that fitted way b4 i started usin rears up front but it can b dun without it but u will bind up the steerin coz of the amount of flew u get from them

thanks again. ill have to start with the steering first. hey wat shocks to u run in ur truck??

ruffs hilux - 9012's front with rear springs 8)

thanks guys does anyone else have pics of there truck with the rears in the front???

i run 9012's front and rear and yes i got pix i just gotta scan em in and ill post em

im runnig rears up front with 9012s as well they flex like you would'nt belive.

One more

Dave, you are just showing off now... 8)

THANKS

As a side note I am going to be running hilux rear leaves up front on my Suzuki. Obviously I will have to remove some leaves to get the spring rate right. I'll also be running them with a shackle at the front, instead of shackle reverse config.

If I get them arched to give me about 3" of lift, they should still flex OK right? I figure as long as I get the spring rate right I should be OK. I'll be trying to match the rates front and rear so both ends flex the same. Also, I'm not going SPOA coz of legalities and wanting to keep the C of G as low as I can.

dave did u remove the arm that runs from the front diff to the frame????

does the front tailshaft need to be lengthend or need a longer spline with rears up front.

killalux wrote:does the front tailshaft need to be lengthend or need a longer spline with rears up front.

Your axle goes forward - you get mega flex - your shaft will need to be lengthend - and a long slip would be recomeneded

$400 bucks worth of driveline work there

You would need a slip joint with more travel than the stock one as well as extra length in the shaft. Mine with 2" extended shackles, 2" dropped mounts, crossover and removed torque rod needs a long travel shaft. I tried using the standard spline and extending the shaft. I set it up so that when the driver's side is at full comp, the slip joint was about 10-15mm from bottoming out. I then lifted the front of the chassis and let the suspension droop and the joint fell apart. The male and female sections cleared each other by about 10mm.

Good luck!

My stock slip joint works fine.

RUFF wrote:My stock slip joint works fine.

Yup mine too!!!!

You need to extend the tube but i am yet to see any vehicle with masive amounts of wheel travel run out of slip!!!

To extend the tube should only cost $80.00.

WTF?!

I'll have to remeasure. I think mine had to be something like 740mm compressed and 840mm extended. I made it about 725mm compressed and it fell apart at droop!

What's going on?

Is there much embedment of the male and female splines at droop?

No very little but still enough.I would like to make it a little longer though as at full compresion it bottoms out.
What i dont think you are looking at is you still need to limit your up travel or you will be replacing springs all the time.My up travel is still about stock with extended shackels and dropped hangers so the spring does not invert on compresion(same as POS's) Neither of us could have anymore up travel in anycase as the tyres are at near full stuff on compresion.
On full RH droop i can see the spline of the male section exposed so i have about 1.5" left. But if i were to get the tyre stuck and try to back up it may drop out but so far this has not happened.

That was measured at the bumpstop height. I've only got around to adding one bumpstop atm. It measures about 80mm with an 80mm spacer so about 160mm on top of a 6 leaf pack with a 12mm ubolt plate. There is a plate on the chassis of 6mm also. So all up, it's 80+80+12+6=178mm as opposed to the standard bumpstop of say 80mm. With the dropped shackles and hangers taken into account, I should have 48mm less compression than standard. I did this so as to stop the springs inverting as you suggested.

Ok in that case you should be able to set it so you bottom the shaft out at compresion and still have enough at droop.
Be carefull though that it isnt too long as it could snap your Tcase in half.

Now that wouldn't be cool!

Guess I must have stuffed up my measurements somehow. It's hard to get the suspension maxed out when you're halfway through mods. It's also difficult to climb a ramp with no rear locker and no front shaft.

Such are the joys of 4x4 moddin!

If you fit the stock shaft you should be able to drive it up a ramp then measure how much you need to add to it thats all i did.