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Wheel Alignment Problem
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:37 pm
by philhod
I have just installed a 2" OME Suspension lift in my old mans 75 series ute. ARB wanted $400 to fit it. Big mouth me said bugger that i'll do it for a slab. So anyway I got the job quick smart.
I installed the new springs and shocks yesterday and booked it in for a wheel alignment at the local Tyrepower shop, because it was pulling to the left and the steering wheel was not centred.
When I went to pick the truck up they told me that they couldn't do it. I'm not up with all the wheel alignment jargen but he told me that it was within spec but agreed with me that it pulls to the left and the steering wheel is out, but there was nothing he could do. He said he has an old hilux that does the same thing and he just puts up with it.
I was charged nothing, but bugger that, there must be something that can be done.
Who does decent 4x4 wheel alignments in Albury/Wodonga?
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:51 pm
by chops
The reason it pulls left is due the positive camber on the front left wheel - common for 99% of live axle front end vehicles (patrol, cruiser, hilux etc etc).
Your steering wheel will appear "crooked" as you have to correct it to counter the pulling to the left.
You can attempt to fix it if you want, means you have to replace the top kingpin bearing with a smaller one to push the to of the swivel hub inwards, but you cab be looking at a few hundred in parts and fitting. You end up with a smaller bearing than standard and that's not necessarily a good thing.
The positive camber is pretty much there from factory (as seen on GU patrols) but to couter that, the vehicle is given excessive amounts of toe in/out (4mm and above), but is shithouse for your tyre wear and life.
I have to explain this to customers at least once a fortnight.
Simple answer is learn to live with it.
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:21 pm
by Trusa
Go see albury shock absorbers in Townsend Street, they do a pretty good wheel alignment. Better than others I've been to.
Did it have this much of an issue before you put the lift in?
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:37 pm
by philhod
Thanks for the info guys. Might give Albury Shock Absorbers a go.
I don't think it was this bad before. It's my Dads car and I have rarely driven it before and mainly only on the farm. He just dropped it off in my shed and I started work on it without driving it first, so I'm not sure.
Will see what he reckons when he picks it up tommorrow arvo. I don't think he'll be real impressed though.
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:38 pm
by fullmetaljacket
as stated you fitted a suspension lift (raised springs)
if the pulling was not there before hand you caster and toe is out (usual with suspension lifts) to need to get some caster wedges and fit to the front axle between the spring and the purch on the bottom of the diff. (this is done because with a lift your diff will roll forward giving you a lower kingpin inclination) when fitting the wedges fit the fat end to the front and the flat to the rear (the same on both sides of the diff housing). This should straighten you steering wheel. My guess is a 3deg wedge(fairly cheep about $10 per wedge).
after this you may or may not need the toe adjusted
hope this helps
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:45 pm
by Trusa
The guys at albury shock absorbers will give you a castor measurement with your wheel alignmnt also, just make sure you ask. And if your terminology is lacking spend a bit of time searching on here and learn what the terms are. That way you understand exactly what the issue is.
Good luck,
Ben
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:03 am
by RAY185
fullmetaljacket wrote:as stated you fitted a suspension lift (raised springs)
if the pulling was not there before hand you caster and toe is out (usual with suspension lifts) to need to get some caster wedges and fit to the front axle between the spring and the purch on the bottom of the diff. (this is done because with a lift your diff will roll forward giving you a lower kingpin inclination) when fitting the wedges fit the fat end to the front and the flat to the rear (the same on both sides of the diff housing). This should straighten you steering wheel. My guess is a 3deg wedge(fairly cheep about $10 per wedge).
after this you may or may not need the toe adjusted
hope this helps
Where do you get castor wedges for $10??
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:27 am
by fullmetaljacket
RAY185 wrote:
Where do you get castor wedges for $10??
I used to work for a heavy vehicle w/alignment joint. 3deg x 2.5 " $10, 4deg x 2.5" $19 (alloy wedges though)
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:04 am
by RAY185
Yeah alloy is fine, cruisers run 70mm springs tho right.....3"? Cheapest I have got them for is about $60 the pair.
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:58 am
by fullmetaljacket
some people say not to use alloy because it has a greater chance of cracking due to it being more brittle than steel. Over 5yr that I was doing H/V alignments we had no cracking of the wedges (mind you 12tons is alot more than your average 2-2.5 4by). I think the spring width for my cruiser was 2.75" the 2.5" wedge will do the trick or a 3" wedge with a shaved side.