Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am aiming to fit 33s on my suzuki and have a few questions about it.

what suspension mods do you need for no scraping and hitting the body? Will just a SPOA be enough, or would i need a body lift as well?

Will the stock drivetrain component stand up to 33s? like diffs, axles, etc? In regards to this i wont be doing rockcrawling, just loose rocks, mud, snow and stuff.

What kind of gearing will i need, so that it still drives alright on road and i can actually use 5th gear in high range. And for offroad, just make it the equivelant to stock gears on little stock tyres, will that rocklobster gearing method in the bible be ok just for general off road, like mud and snow and loose rocky tracks?

Thanks alot, all feedback will be useful

keep in mind i wont be doing ANY rockcrawling with it.

I'm in the process of fitting a true 32inch measured tyres at the moment with just a 1 inch lift. It does look doable with alot of panel work and its cheap.
Altho my tyres are only 9.5 wide so i dont end up putting to much stain on the bearings, cvs, etc. The gearing is very high in low range but would be alright for firebreaks and bog holes i think* only driven about 50 metres with the 32's so far

2" BL and body trimming, some short bumpstop spacers. No need for a SPOA. These are very complicated and expensive to get right, although they are cheap and quick to start off.

If you are mostly driving low traction surfaces you might be OK, but I would be going trailtough doubletoughs with a rear diff centre in the front. This will be plenty strong enough if you know when to get off the throttle and stay out of big rocks.

Others may say you need to go to bigger axles straight off, but I disagree. we have had a few cars here in vic over the years that have run 33's with very limited breakage and they have ususally only broken when the owners were being silly (and admit it)

You will need to correct high range by about 25% which will take a series 4 RH or similar. A rock lobster type setup won't be enough.

Bear in mind, these tyres are 7" bigger than stock- based on the same % increase- nobody would think you could put 40" tyres on a landcruiser without sorting lots of issues out, and it is no different on a suzuki. the avilability of transfer case gearing and the low cost of 33's makes it look like an easy/cheap job but there is a fair bit involved in getting it right.

Steve.

body cutting as in just the guards?

What about for low range gearing correction, and where abouts do you get rockhopper stuff from?

with those trail tough front axles with the rear diff in the front, does anything need to be modified to fit that in? or will it bolt straight in?

The wheel bearings will be alright? How wide tyres would you recomend?

thanks

Re the guard cutting - the rear should be fine, the front will need some cutting and depending on width and wheel offset, there might be just hammering or actual trimming of the firewall.

Mate, do a search on low range gearing/transfer gearing/- this has been covered heaps of times, but in short, the most common gearsets around now lower high range from 17-25% and low range drops into the 6:1 area from 2.2:1. This will be fine with 33's.

Rear diff centre bolts into the front, and the doubletoughs bolt in (but the knuckles have to be removed to fit them, they dont go in through the spindle hole like the stock CV's)

Wheelbearings should be fine, just keep an eye on them.

I would fit the narrowest tyre you can find in the diameter you want, which is likely to be 10.5. this will be the easiset to fit, work the best offroad and will be the kindest on your wheelbearings/steering etc.

Keep searching, all of these questions have been answered heaps in the last few months.

Steve.

if you aren't going to be doing any rockcrawling in it, what are you going to be doing and why do you think you need 33s? Now before Moose or sierrajim have ago at me for questioning something etc The main reason for putting a 33 on is for increased clearances in situations like rock crawling.

If you are just doing it to look cool fine it is your car but it wont be the best solution for a daily driver or a tourer. 31s on a Sierra are a great size for most 4wheeling and the benefit of using the smaller tyre is less chances of breakage, less work to fit them and more chance of them being legal.

U get rockhopper gears from BBM. Give Liam a call and he will look after you.

Itsuki Style wrote:
keep in mind i wont be doing ANY rockcrawling with it.

You say that now, just wait.

Have you condsidered a RUF that will move the front wheels away from the firewall. You will have to cut away at the front but there is a lot less work in that then cutting the firewall, plus if it all goes to crap you can replace the front clip. Clearance on springs etc is always going to be an issue with 33's

Greg

all you need is a grinder

Reverse shackle !!!!!!!!!!

best thing to do is look thru our rides. in the PICS of our rides section. then search the info on the parts u want to learn about. there is tons of info here.

Cheers and gl.

I'm with vicelore!

I'm on 30's 31's in a week or so and i'll probably stop there for a while!

Does every thing i want it to do keeps up with rigs with35's and stuff!

Just go through all the info on here theres heaps!

Good luck with the build!

suzuki boy wrote: keeps up with rigs with35's and stuff!

Not sierras on 35's

Generally I agree, though - start with a 31. Performance in all but the most extreme situations will be fine. Maintenance and breakage will be way lower on a 31.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:

suzuki boy wrote: keeps up with rigs with35's and stuff!

Not sierras on 35's

Generally I agree, though - start with a 31. Performance in all but the most extreme situations will be fine. Maintenance and breakage will be way lower on a 31.

Steve.

Depends how stable the zook on 35's is!

sorry for butting in but whats the go with fitting 32s so far i have 2inch springs and 2inch body lift. Will 5.14 gears work for the transfer case

short stuff wrote:sorry for butting in but whats the go with fitting 32s so far i have 2inch springs and 2inch body lift. Will 5.14 gears work for the transfer case

*rant on*

How many times does this question or simillar questions have to be asked. It has been answered a bazillion times before, and yet people still continue to hi-jack others threads with dumbarse questions that would be answered with a quick search or visit to the bible.

*rant off*

Layto....

short stuff wrote:sorry for butting in but whats the go with fitting 32s so far i have 2inch springs and 2inch body lift. Will 5.14 gears work for the transfer case

I just put 32" BFG muddies on my LWB zook. I only have 2" springs and a 2" body lift. I needed to move the front axle forward 20mm or so by re-drilling the axle perches, i added 1" bumpstop spacers but it still rubs on the front of the guards (only slightly) so im gunna hammer them in a tad more (the seams were already flattened and hammered in a bit to fit the 31's i had on previously).
If i went 2" bumpstop spacers they probably wouldnt rub.
I also restricted the steering lock a little bit to stop the tyres rubbing on the springs on full lock, i did this by replacing the steering stop bolt on the back of the hub with a slightly longer one.

As for gearing, im pretty sure they're 4.1 rockhopper gears in the transfer, as well as 4.1 in the diffs (due to it originally being a 1L maruti). And i think its the perfect gearing for 32's. Drives great on the road , bout 3700rpm at 100 km/h, cruises 110 pretty easy.

Mind you i've got a 1.6 vit engine so it has a bit more power and torque which helps .

if you aren't going to be doing any rockcrawling in it, what are you going to be doing and why do you think you need 33s? Now before Moose or sierrajim have ago at me for questioning something etc The main reason for putting a 33 on is for increased clearances in situations like rock crawling.

If you are just doing it to look cool fine it is your car but it wont be the best solution for a daily driver or a tourer. 31s on a Sierra are a great size for most 4wheeling and the benefit of using the smaller tyre is less chances of breakage, less work to fit them and more chance of them being legal.

I dunno why i decided on 33s, jusr because they are common i suppose, and also for a bit more clearance under diffs for driving in more stupid places. Like i said, i'll just be driving in mud and snow and stuff and loose rocky tracks mostly though.

Perhaps you are right, after all 31s will require way less shit to fit and stuff will break less, with 31s could i just get away with a stock 1l transfer case to reduce the gearing?

Yep. 1L case should be fine for most things.

I have one of these running 3.9 diff ratios and 31's

what are stock diff ratios?

WT sierras are 3.7s 88-96 leaf 1.3
NT sierras are 3.9s 85-88 leaf 1.3

sorry to sound like a weiner,

so if got a 1 litre transer case and the diff centres out of a NT (mines a WT) then the gearing would be spot on for 31s? Does fitment of 31s require a body lift? (Ive got 30s on it now, and the inside of the tyre scrubs on the chassis at full lock, is this just a matter of rim offset? would a BL fix this?)

thanks, i appreciate your tolerance of these annoying questions

No, you will still be taller than stock. by the time you sourced a 1.0 case, a pair of NT diffs and made sure it was all in good nick, it would be cheaper to just throw some gears in the transfer case and have your gearing spot on.

31's are best cleared with a BL, but you might be able to get by without one with some bumpstop spacers, clearancing of seams etc.

A bL will not fix the tyre scrubbing the chassis. Wheel offset will, and so will altering the steering stops.
if you have 30's rubbing on the chassis now, I think you will have 4" backspaced rims, so changing backspacing to 3.5" or less will help and add some stability.

Just my 2C

Steve.

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U get rockhopper gears from BBM. Give Liam a call and he will look after you.

is his phone number 02 9679-9744? thanks