Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi All, i posted a topic on a toyota quad cam into a GQ patrol, as i already have one now i am swinging towards a Holden 5.0 L , i have been asked if i will swap the Quad Cam i recently purchased, Now im not really up to speed on all this but i have taken into consideration all replys to my last post and spoken with various people and i have decided a holden motor may be easyer and i will hopfully have more touqe down low being its a 5.0L as apossed to the 4.0L Quad Cam however yes the Quad Cam is great up high and revs out well , and they are a strong motor the holden motor would be a better idea and they are very common, NOW MY QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS IS Q.. What is involved in a 5.0L Conversion as i dont know anyone personally who have one in a Patrol, i know there out there but i just have not personally met anyone with one yet, Can anyone out ther help me on this point, and do you agree with my decision i am open to all comments, AS I AM STILL LEARNING ON THIS SIDE OF THINGS... Thanks to all for helping me in this time of need.

with the 5.0 litre conversion, you have to cut off the Nissan engine mounts and weld new ones in..... you can buy the entire kit, which includes all engine mounts required, fuel system, adaptor plate and spigot, wiring harness adaptor, tacho interface...... for around 3 grand. Maybe a touch more. If you have a petrol patrol, you will need to purchase a diesel radiator (about $450), because the petrol ones have outlets on the wrong side. A bit of imagination and you can connect your air cleaner up easily..... about $400 for a zorst..... and.... you will need to change the sump to a HQ one, with the pan at the back.

gday mate yeah the other guy is right. My mate is doing one as we speak there is a mob called marks addapters they make the complete kit everything you need including the bell housing addapter plate in a box for around $3500 it's not bad meant to be able to be done by a backyard mechanic but no real instructions supplied that make sense. He has a mechanic doing it (another mate of his) and still had a bit of trouble with it. they just need to know what year the motor is and stuff like that but be ready for alot of weekend hours and late nights if you choose to do it your self depending on how mechanical you are i guess have fun.
p.s. it will be worth it.

Make sure you are getting a fuel injected 5.0.

LudaCris

sorry to hijack, doing the same thing, VS 5L into GQ. Looking at teh adapter kits, Marks comes up, just wanted to know if anyone else does a kit?

[quote="MyGQ"]sorry to hijack, doing the same thing, VS 5L into GQ. Looking at teh adapter kits, Marks comes up, just wanted to know if anyone else does a kit?[/quote] yes dellow automotive do a kit for price of $ 1,070 chepr then marks kit

dazzsbuggy wrote:

MyGQ wrote:sorry to hijack, doing the same thing, VS 5L into GQ. Looking at teh adapter kits, Marks comes up, just wanted to know if anyone else does a kit?

yes dellow automotive do a kit for price of $ 1,070 chepr then marks kit

Yeah but the Marks kit has everything that you need more or less.

The other kit is the bellhousing adapter and engine mounts maybe?

I am in the middle of doing a swap atm. Have the adapter mounted and the old mounts off. Just waiting to get the motor in now..

For some1 with little mechanical knowledge im finding it all pretty easy so far...

personally besides the lack of adapters, i would prefer to run a ford Windsor 5l as the exhaust manifolds are interchangeable between sides, that means you can run 2 left manifolds and have the rhs exit to the front and run under the front of the car and back down the lhs with the other pipe its the best way to clear the front drive shaft imo

Don't use dellow engine mounts they are crap. Make your own out of a trailing arm bush and RHS. Very simple. I post a picture of mine soon. $3500 you can do it cheaper than that. I got bell housing from setons (perth) $500, Engine mounts $50 , Yella terra fly wheel $350, Race clutch $650, Thermos $200, wiring $200, exhaust $400 using standard holden Vn extractors and making the rest from donuts and $500 bucks For bits and pieces.
Does the marks kit come with flywheel and clutch?

marko wrote:Don't use dellow engine mounts they are crap. Make your own out of a trailing arm bush and RHS. Very simple. I post a picture of mine soon. $3500 you can do it cheaper than that. I got bell housing from setons (perth) $500, Engine mounts $50 , Yella terra fly wheel $350, Race clutch $650, Thermos $200, wiring $200, exhaust $400 using standard holden Vn extractors and making the rest from donuts and $500 bucks For bits and pieces.
Does the marks kit come with flywheel and clutch?

Yeah there is extra stuff that you can get from marks, one of these is a clutch kit. Its basically a holden clutch due to the fast the marks kit uses the shaft adapter.

What did every1 do with the drivers side exhaust manifold in relation to clearing the engine mount?

marko wrote:Don't use dellow engine mounts they are crap. Make your own out of a trailing arm bush and RHS. Very simple. I post a picture of mine soon. $3500 you can do it cheaper than that. I got bell housing from setons (perth) $500, Engine mounts $50 , Yella terra fly wheel $350, Race clutch $650, Thermos $200, wiring $200, exhaust $400 using standard holden Vn extractors and making the rest from donuts and $500 bucks For bits and pieces.
Does the marks kit come with flywheel and clutch?

I dont think you can go wrong with the marks 4WD engine mount kit. For what you pay for it you get the chassie mounts and 2 new engine mounts, its not worth stuffing around trying to make mounts IMO.
And the best bit is the mounts are holden ones, $30 each to buy and you can get em any where if you break one..........

The marks kit dosent come with a flywheel or clutch, you just use a STD holden flywheel and clutch. I went this way when i did mine because you have a huge range of clutches to choose from. A STD holden v8 clutch is less than half the price of a nissan one, and clamp better to......

I think dellows ect. all use the nissan clutch, and i think you have to massage the firewall a bit with a hammer to make the engine fit in with the dellows...
The marks kit spaces the engine out from the firewall a fair bit, it makes changing/working on the dizzy a breeze.......

Oh, and the exhuast is fairly easy if you use HSV headers and engine pipe.........

I have extractors on mine and it was a small mission to make em fit, but im very happy with them, well worth the headache.

SLOGQ wrote:Oh, and the exhuast is fairly easy if you use HSV headers and engine pipe.........

Sorry just a little unclear about the exhaust stuff. So HSV headers clear the engine mounts?

What the go with this engine pipe stuff?

What has everyone else used? I can try the block huggers that Marks offer, but am trying to budget a little bit.

Yes, HSV headers will clear the engine mounts.

The engine pipe is the pipework that goes between the headers and the catlitic converter. I saw this modified slightly on one to fit, it looked quite easy to do. This was the way the exhuast shop recommended i do mine, but i went to the trouble of fitting extractors.....

I would check with marks, but i think that their block hugger headers are to suit a small block chev only......

SLOGQ wrote:Yes, HSV headers will clear the engine mounts.

The engine pipe is the pipework that goes between the headers and the catlitic converter. I saw this modified slightly on one to fit, it looked quite easy to do. This was the way the exhuast shop recommended i do mine, but i went to the trouble of fitting extractors.....

I would check with marks, but i think that their block hugger headers are to suit a small block chev only......

Ah ok makes more sense now. Just gotta get meself some now!

SLOGQ wrote:

marko wrote:Don't use dellow engine mounts they are crap. Make your own out of a trailing arm bush and RHS. Very simple. I post a picture of mine soon. $3500 you can do it cheaper than that. I got bell housing from setons (perth) $500, Engine mounts $50 , Yella terra fly wheel $350, Race clutch $650, Thermos $200, wiring $200, exhaust $400 using standard holden Vn extractors and making the rest from donuts and $500 bucks For bits and pieces.
Does the marks kit come with flywheel and clutch?

I dont think you can go wrong with the marks 4WD engine mount kit. For what you pay for it you get the chassie mounts and 2 new engine mounts, its not worth stuffing around trying to make mounts IMO.
And the best bit is the mounts are holden ones, $30 each to buy and you can get em any where if you break one..........

The marks kit dosent come with a flywheel or clutch, you just use a STD holden flywheel and clutch. I went this way when i did mine because you have a huge range of clutches to choose from. A STD holden v8 clutch is less than half the price of a nissan one, and clamp better to......

I think dellows ect. all use the nissan clutch, and i think you have to massage the firewall a bit with a hammer to make the engine fit in with the dellows...
The marks kit spaces the engine out from the firewall a fair bit, it makes changing/working on the dizzy a breeze.......

Clamp pressure on a std holden cover plate is 2800lb if that, and will slip behind a modded 5L, nissan clamp is around 3500-LB,
All dellow etc don't use nissan clutches because its to big for the fly wheel
Holden clutch 10.5''
Nissan clutch 11.5''
I use the standard holden cover plate but upgraded the diaphragm to 4500Lb but I run a puck plate, smoth operation, no slip.I would not recomend it for rock hopping or slow stuff, good for racing. Make shaw the flywheel AND cover plate surfaces are machined and even if new, I had big problems before I did this.

You will never break an engine mount again if you do it this way. But if some how you do the bushes are about $20 each
Some pics of extractor as well. The Lh side are modded Vn, had to mod the slave cyl mounts to fit these in, the RH side are to pairs made into one so the out let is in the centre to go under the sump






Not sure what happened here

As you cn see it come very close to the slave cylinder

Nice info on the clutches, i was wrong

Your exhuast looks almost identical to mine, whats with the heat wraping though mine dosent get to hot.....?

Are those mounts harsh at all??

Try to keep the heat down in the engine bay.
Not at all, just like any other mount

Having the exhaust run under the center of the sump like that doesn't interfere with the front diff housing at all?

On full compression the Drivers side extractors just hits the punkin, then the chassis. I need to do hydraulic bump stops really,but they not cheap, 80 series just don't cut it

I'm having issues getting the drivers side engine mount to site flush on the chassis, has anyone else had issues with how the marks mounts sit?

Any tips on installing the suckers?

Rhysta when we did it we had the engine on the crane still and lowered it very slowly with the engine mounts on it. We sat he motor into the bell housing and all that crap than as we lowered it down the rest of the way the mounts layed on the chassis rails. We bent the tops over and welded them in place. It was a bit harder than I have made out but a mate on each side and some one on the crane and it was the easiest way we found to do it hope this helps you good luck.

He bro I'm doing a VN 5lt conversion into our GU niz with the t700 behind it. useing marks 4x4s adptor.My headach will be fitting the A/C & front pulley. My mate got a 5lt with a t400 behind his GQ. With his one we found that the motor sits to far forward. Cooling is a problem too when he feeds it in the sand (twin themo ford el,4 cord rad,) not much room between motor & rad. Anyway best of luck on the conversion shop around be for buying your parts.

if you use the marks kit, you get everything you need. You don't need to hunt around for other shit. Mine was with an auto, and the engine fits great!! has clearance everywhere!! the only thing that needs to be done is to modify the power steering bracket on the engine if you are using the holden one. It sits too close to the steering box. With mine using HSV headers, i had to extend the passenger side flange down 4" because it hit the chassis.

the entire swap is here http://www.downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1366

Patrolden wrote:if you use the marks kit, you get everything you need. You don't need to hunt around for other shit. Mine was with an auto, and the engine fits great!! has clearance everywhere!! the only thing that needs to be done is to modify the power steering bracket on the engine if you are using the holden one. It sits too close to the steering box. With mine using HSV headers, i had to extend the passenger side flange down 4" because it hit the chassis.

the entire swap is here http://www.downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1366

Ok so HSV headers from a vn motor? fit with very little work..

How did you run your drivers side? Under the sump like others or did you cross it over further back?

Have sent u a PM, go with the holden its the pick of the litter.... and so so easy to work on and cheap

Rhysta wrote:

Patrolden wrote:if you use the marks kit, you get everything you need. You don't need to hunt around for other shit. Mine was with an auto, and the engine fits great!! has clearance everywhere!! the only thing that needs to be done is to modify the power steering bracket on the engine if you are using the holden one. It sits too close to the steering box. With mine using HSV headers, i had to extend the passenger side flange down 4" because it hit the chassis.

the entire swap is here http://www.downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1366

Ok so HSV headers from a vn motor? fit with very little work..

How did you run your drivers side? Under the sump like others or did you cross it over further back?

i used part of the holden exhaust as well...... it went just behind the sump after putting the HQ sump on it. It joins into the other one just alongside the trans. t does run rather close, so i put an engine oil cooler on it to help keep the oil from overheating....... if i were to replace the zorst, i would move it back a bit more and get it away from the sump.

Ok I have been finding this thread really helpful, so I thought I would help out too.

Here are a few pics of us setting up the engine mounts from the weekend.

Once we sorted out the placement it was pretty easy really.

Bell housing on and chassis prepped up.


Sitting motor in position


Mounts have been tacked and completing welds.



Mount has been heated and bent with oxy to sit flush to chassis rail and ready for last bit of welding.

a bit of friggin around, but will be worth it in the end