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1HZ Intercooler Query
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:23 pm
by me3@neuralfibre.com
I've got an AXT turbo kit on my 1HZ (under)powered HZJ105. Testing has showed peak temps of 140c and average of 80c at the outlet of the turbo. Not huge, but could be lower. I haven't measured boost yet, so will assume it's the stock 7PSI.
Has anyone made up or bought an intercooler kit for their 1HZ, and could you post pics please? Top mount (with fan), front mount 1/2, front mount full, and water to aire are all options I am considering.
Any experience appreciated.
General intercooler comments need not reply. I am after specific experiance in fabricating something for this vehicle.
Thanx
Paul
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:33 pm
by tuff 75
here mate i dunno if this will help. Its my old 75
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:28 pm
by MUSS
tuff 75 wrote:here mate i dunno if this will help. Its my old 75
what intercooler is that mate?
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:00 am
by tuff 75
its a dts kit buddy i added on the thermo fan. it worked ok for a top mount but if i was you i would go a good front mount with that extra room u have in the front of the 100
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:35 am
by shanegtr
Have a look here
http://www.offroad80s.com/viewtopic.php ... c&start=15
Its on an 80 series but its a good example of what you can do with a front mount[/url]
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:25 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
tuff 75 wrote:here mate i dunno if this will help. Its my old 75
You have some type of bonnet scoop / vent above?
Any idea of inlet / outlet temps and boost level?
Looks great.
I assume there was heat soak before the fan?
There is little room in the front of the 100 b the time the factory auto cooler is in there - it's huge. There is enough room, but pipe plumbing is not fun, lots and lots of bends. No room beside radiator for pipes due to batts, so has to go under guard and in sides. Starts making top mount look very simple indeed.
Thanx
Paul
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:50 pm
by tuff 75
the bonnet scoop was a nissan gu part. looks fine....
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 12:22 pm
by dow50r
There was a 100 series safari unit on ebay for sale a few weeks back....so keep a lookout....yeah i know, specific info...the two options you have are pwr water to air as sold by denco diesel, or front mount as sold by safari...and others...well buyer beware of quality, there are heaps of chinese crap out there that is a waiste of money...if you want to give the water to air a go, i have one for sale...decided to pay 1800 and go front mount safari as opposed to trying to fit water radiators...heres a truck cooler if your interested in cooling things right down....do u have a bullbar to mount it off???
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GARRETT-INTERCOO ... dZViewItem
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 1:18 pm
by me3@neuralfibre.com
dow50r wrote:There was a 100 series safari unit on ebay for sale a few weeks back....so keep a lookout....yeah i know, specific info...the two options you have are pwr water to air as sold by denco diesel, or front mount as sold by safari...and others...well buyer beware of quality, there are heaps of chinese crap out there that is a waiste of money...if you want to give the water to air a go, i have one for sale...decided to pay 1800 and go front mount safari as opposed to trying to fit water radiators...heres a truck cooler if your interested in cooling things right down....do u have a bullbar to mount it off???
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GARRETT-INTERCOO ... dZViewItem
I'm happy to substitute quantity (size) for quality (efficiency).
Frotn mount is a bugger to plumb, lots of bends and joins = expensive, plus I have yet to find on that has inlet / outlet in easy to use locations (same side).
The angled inlet of the 1HZ is part of the problem, if only it faced toward the passenger side, I could route plumbing that way. Turnign it 180deg is not the best solution for flow. (although more boost solves all flow problems)
Water to air I am skittish of. 2 reasons.
1) Water to air is actually Air - Water - Air - 2 thermal junctions means lower efficiency.
2) Increased thermal mass is great for pulse / short applications, but diesels tend to be under boost 100% of the time under highway cruise. Therefore the thermal mass is irrelevent, all that matters is transfer capacity. I am not convinced the small front radiator has adequate capacity in many of these systems. ARE has it pretty well right when they state Water to Air is fundamentally less efficient, but they are easier to route plumbing wise, yeild shorter gas paths, and have significant transient adsorbtion capacity - all great attributes for petrol traffic light drags.
Top mount has heat soak issues, but short simple plumbing. A fan solves the heat soak problems. It also doesn't restrict or add heat loading to the radiator. Bonnet scoop makes the cruiser look real racy too, so I feel better about taking on other AWD cars like WRX's......
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 1:27 pm
by mud4b
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 2:26 pm
by hdj105
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
The angled inlet of the 1HZ is part of the problem, if only it faced toward the passenger side, I could route plumbing that way. Turnign it 180deg is not the best solution for flow. (although more boost solves all flow problems)
How about changing the inlet?
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 3:32 pm
by dow50r
Greg, thats cheating...for a front mount, id pop an alloy bend out the front and around the front of the power steer reservoir....ready to go straight down...admittedly, getting the pipe right out of the turbo would be a nightmare....one i dont wish to have
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 3:51 pm
by me3@neuralfibre.com
Nice to hear from you Greg. Did you do that one yourself? That doesn't look like a 1HD-FT, is this a previous incantation? That must mean it's spare and you don't need it anymore......
I guess it's about time I learnt to weld alloy
Paul
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 4:01 pm
by hdj105
Nah, it's not mine, I can't take the credit for that one.
It's a mates truck, he brought a 600x300x75 intercooler off ebay, and plumbed it all himself. He got the inlet manifold altered as per above by some alloy fab shop. I think the inlet hose barb could have been a little larger.
Personally I'd relocate the p/s reservoir and cut the side out of the whole manifold and make it front entry, tapering to original at the rear.