Outer Limits 4x4 Board

how high would a '91 rr 4 door have to be lifted for a set of 35 simex et and what other mods are needed ???

"winning" formula is:

1. 764 OME front springs, 762 or 763 rear.
2. 2" body lift.
3. Rangie Spares flares.

All the above cost me (in Lebanon) ~1,200 USD.

You will need a 50 mm body lift and 2 inch in the springs and cutting of the front guards and trimming of the rear doors , best to buy the Rangie Spares flares . It would also be an idea to adjust your turning circle as otherwise you will surely come to greif on the radius arms

As all have mentioned, winning foruular for 35's are 2 inch body and 2 inch spring, plus the Rangie Spares fibreglass flares.

Other areas of upgrade will be your axles and diffs. maxi Drives front and rear will solve most of your problems, as well as upgrading the front CV's to 110 spec (a must for post 88 Rangies). 4.1:1 Crown wheel and pinion are also advised as you will be too doughy on the road with the stock 3.9.

Your standard 10 spline axles will NOT last with the 35's. Unfortunatley, for the driveline to last, you will need to go this way and upgrade. I don't want to spoil your fun, but that's the reality fot the whole thing to last. There are cheaper ways of doing it, but I will leave that to someone who knows a bit more about it than me.

Anyway, good luck with it all.

Trav

DiscoDino wrote:"winning" formula is:
1. 764 OME front springs, 762 or 763 rear.

Does everyone run that heavy a spring on the rear of their rangie?

762 - 300-340 pound

763 - 360 pound

That would make the rear springs a lot heavier than the front which seems odd given the weight and impact loading (from obstacles) on the front. Would force the front to articulate though!

If you wheel a landy you'd need tools, recovery gear and spare parts, all of which are strapped in the rear.

DiscoDino wrote:If you wheel a landy you'd need tools, recovery gear and spare parts, all of which are strapped in the rear.

Ah yes - although taking no tools, no recovery gear and no spare parts is the ultimate in off road commitment in that you know you wont break and you wont get stuck. And you will be a lot lighter for believing so.

Sam

if 2 inch spring and 2 inch body lift should fit the 35 et simex what about a 4 inch spring lift??? what mods would be needed for a 4 inch spring lift??

mav wrote:if 2 inch spring and 2 inch body lift should fit the 35 et simex what about a 4 inch spring lift??? what mods would be needed for a 4 inch spring lift??

At 4in you really start to muck up the front end geometry and you have to lots of work to make the rig drive straight and not vibrate. At 2 + 2 its a no brainer.

Sam

Strange Rover wrote:

mav wrote:if 2 inch spring and 2 inch body lift should fit the 35 et simex what about a 4 inch spring lift??? what mods would be needed for a 4 inch spring lift??

At 4in you really start to muck up the front end geometry and you have to lots of work to make the rig drive straight and not vibrate. At 2 + 2 its a no brainer.

Sam

do you mean getting the castor right ??? what about redrilling/sloting the knuckles?? what is involved in doing this, how do you work out were to drill/ how far to slot??

Sam,
When you were a kid and you went camping were you the type that put EVERYTHING you owned in the bag or just a bottle of water and some sunglasses? I was the latter, and I always had an "shit, I need _____" moments...

Agreed that tools weigh the rigs down, however, lately (trial and error college) been carrying the BARE minimum, AND, been securing them IN FRONT of the rear axle (no rear bench) at the very bottom.

FWIW, 762s are progressive and are great for "moderate" loads.

mav wrote:

Strange Rover wrote:

mav wrote:if 2 inch spring and 2 inch body lift should fit the 35 et simex what about a 4 inch spring lift??? what mods would be needed for a 4 inch spring lift??

At 4in you really start to muck up the front end geometry and you have to lots of work to make the rig drive straight and not vibrate. At 2 + 2 its a no brainer.

Sam

do you mean getting the castor right ??? what about redrilling/sloting the knuckles?? what is involved in doing this, how do you work out were to drill/ how far to slot??

Yup - the caster and the front drive shaft angles. Basically about the max lift that people successfully run on a rangie would be less than 3in (as far as I understand) There was a thread on this a while ago - found it
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5514&highlight=lift

Just had a quick look through - maybe 4in is possible?? and just not common.

Do a search on "lift" and restrict it to the rover section cause there is lots of threads on this.

Sam