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Maxxis Mudzilla M/T or Yokohama Geolandar M/T ????????
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:47 pm
by Tassie Trent
Hi all , I am fitting NEW tyres to my Holden V8 1984model Hilux. The local Bob Jane Tmart have a set of 33-13.5-15 Maxxis Mudzillas M/T (VERY aggressive Mudders) in stock which I had a look at & am interested in but they seem to think their life is only around 30,000 kms & are Very Noisey on road. They have tried to talk me into a set of 33-12.5-15 Yokohama Geolandars M/T of which are meant to be quieter & Have around 50,000 or so kms of life in them. They Do Not have these in stock but would order them in if wanted. Having NOT run either of these tyres previously which tyres are best ??????
Re: Maxxis Mudzilla M/T or Yokohama Geolandar M/T ????????
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:09 pm
by RockyF75
Tassie Trent wrote:Having NOT run either of these tyres previously which tyres are best ??????
I'll jump in here before you get flamed
Best for what? Best offroad? Its going to be the noisy, fast wearing suckers of course. Best for all round? (i dunno wait for someone else). Just being more specific helps.
Personally I'd go the mudzilla's and have a 2nd set of HTs or ATs or even cheap second hand mudders as daily's, and only put the mudzilla's on when you go away. YMMV
Tyres
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:42 pm
by Tassie Trent
When I said which tyres are best I meant - Off Road performance , On Road performance , For Noise & For Km Wear (how long do they last using them on & off road as dailydrivers). I know its better having a second set of tyres to change over too but that can be a pain it the *** for a number of reasons including time mucking around changing wheels over.
Re: Maxxis Mudzilla M/T or Yokohama Geolandar M/T ????????
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:38 pm
by bogged
the more aggressive the less road klms you can expect.
plenty of tire threads in recent days, but yokos have never had a big following.. I looked at them few yrs back, they were $45 a tire each more than BFG's in 33/12.5's at the time...
what osrt of terrain do you drive - mainly mud? dirt roads? rock? etc....
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:41 pm
by j-top paj
i had a set of yokahama A/Ts on my jabber when i first got it and they seemed to wear quite quick. maybe 20k out of them butthey were quite grippy. i doubt the M/Ts would wear slower than the A/Ts
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 9:51 am
by sniper
someone elses perspective up them who runs them
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/t ... ts-review/
The mudzillas are more agressive and are noisy on the road (which I luv) but all depends on what your after.
More offroad tyre or a more all round tyre.
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:47 am
by cooter
what sort of price are the yokos goin for in a 35?
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:17 pm
by Wambat
also the mudzillas are a bias tyre too, ( if memory serves me correctly) and the yokos would be a radial. just as a point.
if your looking at any kind of tyre thats going to be daily drivin i would go for a radial m/t.
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:34 pm
by sniper
Also insurance will not cover you running a bias tyre unless your car came out with it (I think a 60 series was the last but not sure) or is engineered for them...if you can do that...no idea over here.
Thats providing if you worry about stuf like that. Not everyone will.
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 8:51 pm
by ludacris
I would not go for either. Had the Yoko's and they wore really quickly. The mudzillas will be too aggressive for an every day tire. Go and check out the Maxxis trepadors. Best of both worlds.
ludaCris
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:40 pm
by Ryano
sniper wrote:Also insurance will not cover you running a bias tyre unless your car came out with it (I think a 60 series was the last but not sure) or is engineered for them...if you can do that...no idea over here.
Thats providing if you worry about stuf like that. Not everyone will.
As long as the following requirements are met and you don't increase the Overall Diameter of the tyre by more than allowed in your State, the insurance company won't have any problems with Bias Tyres on a vehicle. They will cover what is road legal.
46—Wheels and tyres—size and capacity
The wheels and tyres fitted to an axle of a vehicle must be of sufficient size and capacity to carry the part of the vehicle's gross mass transmitted to the ground through the axle.
47—Pneumatic tyres generally
A vehicle built after 1932 must be fitted with pneumatic tyres.
48—Pneumatic tyres—carcass construction
(1) A vehicle with a GVM not over 4.5 tonnes must not have pneumatic tyres of different carcass construction fitted to the same axle, but the tyres may have different cord materials and a different number of plies.
(2) However, subrule (1) does not apply to a tyre being used in an emergency as a temporary replacement for a tyre complying with the subrule.
49—Pneumatic tyres—size and capacity
The size and capacity of a pneumatic tyre to be fitted to a vehicle must be decided using a cold inflation pressure that is not more than the lesser of:
(a) the pressure recommended by the tyre manufacturer; and
(b) a pressure of:
(i) for a radial ply tyre—825 kilopascals; or
(ii) for another tyre—700 kilopascals.
50—Tyres—defects
A tyre fitted to a vehicle must be free of any apparent defect that could make the vehicle unsafe.
51—Tyres for use on vehicles with GVM over 4.5 tonnes
(1) A tyre fitted to a vehicle with a GVM over 4.5 tonnes must be suitable for road use at the lesser of:
(a) 100 kilometres an hour; and
(b) the vehicle's top speed.
(2) This rule applies to a vehicle instead of the tyre speed category requirements in the relevant ADR.
52—Tyres—manufacturer's rating
(1) This rule applies to a motor vehicle if the vehicle:
(a) has 4 or more wheels; and
(b) was built after 1972; and
(c) has a GVM not over 4.5 tonnes.
(2) However, this rule does not apply to a tyre if the tyre:
(a) is recommended by the vehicle builder as suitable for limited use on the vehicle in special circumstances at a speed less than the speed applying to the vehicle under subrule (3); or
(b) is being used in an emergency as a temporary replacement for a tyre complying with this rule.
(3) A tyre fitted to a motor vehicle must, when first manufactured, have been rated by the tyre manufacturer as suitable for road use at the lesser of:
(a) a speed of at least:
(i) for a car with special features for off road use—140 kilometres an hour; or
(ii) for another car—180 kilometres an hour; or
(iii) for another motor vehicle—120 kilometres an hour; and
(b) the vehicle's top speed.
Example—
Example for paragraph (a) (i)
A four wheel drive vehicle.
(4) This rule applies to a vehicle instead of the tyre speed category requirements in the relevant ADR.
53—Retreads
(1) A tyre that is retreaded before the commencement of this rule must not be used on a vehicle if:
(a) Australian Standard AS 1973–1976 Retreaded Pneumatic Passenger Car and Light Truck Tyreor Australian Standard AS 1973–1985 Retreaded Pneumatic Passenger and Light Truck Tyre applies to the tyre; and
(b) the tyre was retreaded after publication of the Australian Standard; and
(c) the tyre was not retreaded in accordance with Australian Standard AS 1973–1976 Retreaded Pneumatic Passenger Car and Light Truck Tyre, Australian Standard AS 1973–1985 Retreaded Pneumatic Passenger and Light Truck Tyre or Australian Standard AS 1973–1993 Pneumatic Tyres—Passenger Car, Light Truck and Truck/Bus—Retreading and Repair Processes.
(2) A tyre that is retreaded after the commencement of this rule must not be used on a vehicle if:
(a) Australian Standard AS 1973–1993 Pneumatic Tyres—Passenger Car, Light Truck and Truck/Bus—Retreading and Repair Processes applies to the tyre; and
(b) the tyre was not retreaded in accordance with the Australian Standard.
Note—
The Australian Standards mentioned in this rule require various markings on retreaded tyres. These may include a speed rating less than the rating originally marked on the tyre.
54—Tyre tread
(1) A tyre on a motor vehicle must not have cleats or other gripping devices that could damage road surfaces.
(2) Except at tread wear indicators, a tyre fitted to the vehicle must have a tread pattern at least 1.5 millimetres deep in a band that runs continuously:
(a) across:
(i) for a vehicle with a GVM over 4.5 tonnes—at least 75% of the tyre width that normally comes into contact with the road; or
(ii) for another vehicle—the tyre width that normally comes into contact with the road; and
(b) around the whole circumference of the tyre.
(3) A vehicle must not be fitted with a tyre that has been treated by recutting or regrooving the tread rubber, unless the tyre was:
(a) constructed with an extra thickness of rubber designed for recutting or regrooving; and
(b) labelled to indicate the construction.
I've just highlighted the main points that relate to the legalities of running bias tyres. This shows that a Bias tyre is legal for use under these requirements.
Mickey Thompson and Simex Bias Tyres meet these requirements. Maxxis are load and speed rated however the speed rating is not sufficient (L or 120km/h) to be road legal.
All that aside the Bias isn't designed with road handling and performance on road as a main factor. It's offroad strength and maleability over the terrain is much better though.
For on road manners, look at Radial Construction.
The Yokohama isn't a bad tyre, you will however need to rotate them very regularly as they are a little prone to uneven wear. They are also directional.
Cheers,
Ryano
Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:07 pm
by Wish I had coils
sorry for being a little dense, but whats the difference between bias and radials?
Posted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:20 am
by Ryano
Bias-
· Body plies run 70° angles from bead and each layer runs in the opposite direction. This gives the carcass incredible sidewall strength and resistance to tears.
· Nylon Body Cords - Superior strength. Is prone to case distortion and vibrations as plies grow and shrink through temperature range.
· There is no tread belt in these design tyres.
Radial -
· Body plies run 90° angles from bead. This gives comfortable ride. This also makes them easier to break, as damage will run through the body plies, no matter how many.
· Polyester Body Cords don't distort like nylon also gives better balance and lighter weight.
· Steel (Blue) radial belts in tread area give better handling, tread life and steering responsiveness on-road. It also reduces tread squirm and increases resistance to tread penetration.
Bias Belted Claws -
Body plies run 70° angles from bead and each layer runs in the opposite direction. This gives the carcass incredible sidewall strength and resistance to tears.
· Polyester Body Cords don't distort like nylon also gives better balance and lighter weight.
· Fibreglass (Blue) radial belts in tread area give better handling, tread life and steering responsiveness on-road. It also reduces tread squirm and increases resistance to damage.
· 6 Actual plies in lower sidewall to give extra strength and reduce damage
bogged from the Mickey T site:
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com.au/t ... mickey.htm
Cheers,
Ryano