Outer Limits 4x4 Board

is there anything i should be aware of when engaging and disengaging?

Shit yer there is . You first must find a cliff then engage the locker and DRIVE THE MOTHER

yep fluk it of and get an air locker

wat is the problem with it?

O and dont do it on the black stuff they put on most of the boring roads. It will break stuff and cost you money

price for new vacuum actuator from nissan = air locker

when the guy sold me the car i think he said something to me about him changing how it was activated then showed me something on the firer wall two buttons then said it was acivated on the insde

does it have factory locker switch

not quite sure i am going to pick it up tonight.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... hp?t=49995

Have a read i haven't done it yet but will be soon..

Rick.

how much effort are these fawking things

Adam GQ wrote:yep fluk it of and get an air locker

why the hell would you say something as unreasonable as that?

the factory locker is great, all it needs is a bashplate around the vacume actuator on the pumpkin.

and if you have crud in your factory solenoids on teh firewall, you can install a new solenoid block, ( not a nissan one)

do a search on factory locker solenoid and you may come up with some stuff.

Jes

how do you get rid of all that and make it work with the air ram>

any pics?

Bj, with your fab skills, i am sure you can piss the vacume actuator off the diff and install a air ram quite easy. You can even make it cable operated.

the mechanism inside the diff is just like a gear in a motorcycle gearbox with a fork being the lever.

but it works quite well.

JEs

I would look at a lip seal on a shaft with a clevis joint or similar on the selecter side. then on outside a small air cyl. peice o piss

jessie928 wrote:Bj, with your fab skills, i am sure you can piss the vacume actuator off the diff and install a air ram quite easy. You can even make it cable operated.

the mechanism inside the diff is just like a gear in a motorcycle gearbox with a fork being the lever.

but it works quite well.

JEs

do i just grind off the actuator? does it pull off or what


do i need to remove the centre, cause im far too lazy for that....

but if someone tells me how to remove the actuator, I will make a tech thread on the replacement with air ram for the sticky bible.

bj on roids wrote:

jessie928 wrote:Bj, with your fab skills, i am sure you can piss the vacume actuator off the diff and install a air ram quite easy. You can even make it cable operated.

the mechanism inside the diff is just like a gear in a motorcycle gearbox with a fork being the lever.

but it works quite well.

JEs

do i just grind off the actuator? does it pull off or what


do i need to remove the centre, cause im far too lazy for that....

but if someone tells me how to remove the actuator, I will make a tech thread on the replacement with air ram for the sticky bible.

gas axe

bj on roids wrote:

jessie928 wrote:Bj, with your fab skills, i am sure you can piss the vacume actuator off the diff and install a air ram quite easy. You can even make it cable operated.

the mechanism inside the diff is just like a gear in a motorcycle gearbox with a fork being the lever.

but it works quite well.

JEs

do i just grind off the actuator? does it pull off or what


do i need to remove the centre, cause im far too lazy for that....

but if someone tells me how to remove the actuator, I will make a tech thread on the replacement with air ram for the sticky bible.

Yes you need to remove the centre to get it off.

the factory lockers work every bit as good as an air locker..... it can sometimes take a minute or two to disengage, but i am told that the breather on the relay can sometimes get dirty and slow it down.
the switch is on the dash under the ashtray

well mine is all apart so ill grab a heap of pics of it this arvo for you to have a look bj.
if you need anything in specific let me kno

badger wrote:well mine is all apart so ill grab a heap of pics of it this arvo for you to have a look bj.
if you need anything in specific let me kno

legend, get the pics up or even email across to me and ill host whatever...

okay, the actuator, can i grind it off, do i need to remove the centre to do the conversion (I'd rather not as it would be much faster)

the engaging mechanism, and how the actuator engages the mechanism, if you catch my drift

cheers

you will have to remove the centre unfortunatly, once the centre is out as far as i can tell its a matter of removing one split pin and a nut and the whole thing comes out.
with the right tools and a air solinoid it would be a very simple conversion im very sure
anyway i got home too late from getting some parts to get the pics so ill throw them up tomorrow.

http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u111/spadger83/
heres the pics as promised
when i get a chance later on ill go thru and make a thread with more details about each pic.

Great pics.........keep us posted on how you go with the mods. I have one
of these in an early wagon (the locker don't work) but by the look of the
pics, it's quite heavy duty...........
One question....Can you fit 4.6 ring & pinion to this type of centre????

cheers badger, we should look into doing a cable conversion, cheaper, easier, more reliable, maybe with a dash switch/light to alert for status...

MUD EMPIRE wrote:Great pics.........keep us posted on how you go with the mods. I have one
of these in an early wagon (the locker don't work) but by the look of the
pics, it's quite heavy duty...........
One question....Can you fit 4.6 ring & pinion to this type of centre????

i beleive jes has done this??!!

why would you want to mess with the factory locker if it's already working? seems like a waste of time to me.

because there is more of them out there not working than there is that work.
prob due to a few things, lack of use, idiots using lsd oil (like mine) solinoid or actuator dieing or poor vacume pressure.
after looking at the inside of one of these it is easy to see how incredibly simple the setup is but also how flawed the idea of using such a low pressure is as you can push the locker in and out by flicking it with one finger. it needs more positive pressure holding it in or the gears will end up looking like mine when used properly.

dont get me wrong when working the vacume setup is awesome and mine used to lock and unlock in no time at all even with factory solinoids but there has to be a beter way than handing nissan 800 for a simple vacume actuator

mud empire im pretty sure changing diff gears would be no harder than changing in a standard diff as everything bar where the spider gears and limmo bit normally are is exactly the same

Patrolden wrote:why would you want to mess with the factory locker if it's already working? seems like a waste of time to me.

make it better /stronger/more reliable

geez

you never put better seats in a car? changed to better tyres when the old ones still worked fine?