Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just when all's going well and a big trip coming up next weekend, the clutch pedal on the Disco has sunk to the floor. Tried bleeding it but this made it worse - now has no clutch at all

Pulled the slave cylinder off and it had a bit of a leak.

BUT - the push rod seems to be too far inside the bell housing - when pushed back by hand, it sits about 15mm proud of the slave cylinder mounting face, meaning it is only about 20-25mm inside the cylinder itself (the front end of the cylinder sits inside the bell housing a bit.

This seems too little and may account for the lack of pedal push.

DOES anyone know how far the push rod should sit out of the slave cylinder mounting face when pushed back by hand?

I am trying to avoid removing the gearbox etc - but it looks like something has failed inside:(.

Clutch was fine until then, and no strange noises to provide any clues.

Tdi ??

did it go heavy all of a sudden then go to the floor ?
If so, you've probably punched the pivot through the fork. This is really common. A lot of blokes weld a cupped washer or piece of steel to the back of the fork to reinforce, but after just having been through the broken fork, clutch re-do job over the last month, everything else was stuffed in there and about to fail anyway at 220,000km.

Here's a recent thread of mine on AULRO with pics of the bits that were also RS. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?t=39863

I have a tool to bleed these early D1's PROPERLY. They are REALLY difficult to bleed out

Give me a call or drop by .

JC

nah its a fuel drinkin' V8i model. Im guessing differences in boxes?

justinC wrote:I have a tool to bleed these early D1's PROPERLY. They are REALLY difficult to bleed out

Give me a call or drop by .

JC

Vacuum bleeder? best 80bucks spent evaaar

cloughy wrote:

justinC wrote:I have a tool to bleed these early D1's PROPERLY. They are REALLY difficult to bleed out

Give me a call or drop by .

JC

Vacuum bleeder? best 80bucks spent evaaar

Nope. It's even more spectacular and top secret too.

PS, How is the search fo tapered roller conversion going? I'll want one too if you are making some/buying some.

JC

justinC wrote:

cloughy wrote:

justinC wrote:I have a tool to bleed these early D1's PROPERLY. They are REALLY difficult to bleed out

Give me a call or drop by .

JC

Vacuum bleeder? best 80bucks spent evaaar

Nope. It's even more spectacular and top secret too.

PS, How is the search fo tapered roller conversion going? I'll want one too if you are making some/buying some.

JC

Top secret Why cant I know?? a fitting to pressure bleed??

I wanna know



On the back burner at the moment, just finishing of my jag

Dunno about Damien though

Thanks for the advice guys.

The pedal went down sort of slowly, not with a bang - so probably not a catastrophic falure, and there was some clutch left until we beld it. JC reckons that because the pipe line runs above the line of the MC (why do they do that - reminds me of a VT Commodore slave cyl I recently had to jack up the rear of the car 2 foot to fully bleed) air has rushed in and up making the problem worse.

Pulled the slave cylinder to bits and I think that's where the problem lies as the piston seal looks scored and worn out - bore is fine but there was lots of b fluid in the bell housing.

Interestingly the slave cylinder may be the wrong one, with the piston riding too high in the bore - according to JC. Maybe the piston punched out of the bore momentarily 'cause the clutch is getting worn??

Pressure bled out the clutch master cylinder and heaps of air came out, clamped the flexible hose to the sc and tested the pedal - nice and hard. So the MC looks OK.

Also pushed on the slave cylinder push rod, and the clutch seemed to activate without any cruches etc.

So cross fingers, should just be up for a new correct 60 buck SC:0

will deff be your slave had the same prob not long ago