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Water is not my friend
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 7:09 am
by Noisey
Took the shorty for a run over the weekend for the first time with the new 33 XTerrains, torsions and diff lock.
Bewdiful......until..... claimed by puddle. Was able to drive out....but
I believe with too much back pressure through the submerged exhaust I have blown the front oil seal around the crank on the motor. Little to no oil pressure and plenty dripp'n from below.
Home on a towy
What timing......with only a couple of days left B4 xmas
Will try my mechanic but don't hold much hope of having a car until early next year.
Last resort I will get the parts and spend a couple of days pulling her to bits myself.
Thanks goes out to "RoldIt" for bringing the beer for the trip home.
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:30 am
by RoldIT
Yay for ME!!!!
Boohoo for jabber ...
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:18 am
by Thor
pics!
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 12:27 pm
by Noisey
Ya for Beer !!
And NO - No pics
Mechanic is saying low pressure could be dud oil pump (hope nothing else cooked) Cloud out back when starting not looking good though.
Can't get it in till 29th Dec - so no car for the hols.
Mate from work has lent me his PT Cruiser till I'm back on the road
Weird to drive but me no complainy
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 1:51 pm
by Bitsamissin
Sorry to hear that mate particularly after all the work you just did.
Exhaust back pressure won't cause a crank seal to fail though.
Cactus oil pump could be the cause of the low oil pressure though
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:12 pm
by Noisey
What could cause the front seal to blow.
I've had the car for over three years now and not once have I even seen a drop of oil where it shouldn't be.
Then yesterday I'm leaking like a hooker on a good night.
Whatever went wrong, went in a hurry.
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 5:33 pm
by Bitsamissin
Well the oil pump is positioned just behind that crankshaft seal (driven by the crankshaft) if the oil pump has died maybe something has come adrift and chewed out the seal. That would explain the oil leaking and the low oil pressure, don't know why it would be blowing smoke out the exhaust on start up though.
Those oil pumps are pretty simple things just like a stator set up and pretty reliable, thats the first one I've heard of shitting itself (if it is that).
Also the oil pressure sender switches are notorious for slowly dying and reading lower and lower pressures until they fail to read anything then they need replacing.
Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2003 7:53 am
by bazzle
I learnt years ago that muddy water and seals dont go to gether.
A little bit of grit and *********_________########
Many a Diff seal, alternator bearing, crank seal later, I now treat bog holes etc with respect.
Bazzle
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 4:02 pm
by Noisey
News from the mechanic - motor is cooked.
Oil pump failed and caused damage throughout. Will head down tomorrow to make sure he's not "pull'n me pud" before I make up my mind which direction to head.
I know there has been talk about replacement motors before but has anyone actually had any luck or know of a good place to start looking for a new donk (Australia wide).
What are my options? - are there any upgrades that can be made to the standard 3 litre before it is transplanted or is a reco the way to go.
Should I grab the motor
for further exploration
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 10:14 pm
by Bitsamissin
Not good mate..................
You can try RPW but there in WA, they specialize in Mitsu stuff and do full 3.0 V6 rebuilds from stock to wild.
The only prob with the 3.0 V6 is trying to extract more power but not making it too peaky which is shithouse for offroad work.
Second hand going rate is about $1500.
RPW start at $2200 for the stock rebuild and up to $3000 for stage 3.
www.rpw.com.au
I guess you could get the heads cleaned up (slightly ported), CR raised slightly, look into a cam profile for more lower end power, extractors/exhaust and maybe a chip. Thats about as far as I would go if it were me.
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 12:07 am
by DougH
ACL made 10:1 compression pistons that fit my engine when I rebuilt. I have to run hitest gas... but the power increase is definetly worth it.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 5:37 am
by Noisey
Second hand motor is out of the question - why take the risk of getting a dud worth $1500
Rebuilt motors I can get from between $2200 up to $3000.
Spoke to Dave at RPW who suggested a rebuild with:-
Throttle Body Upgrade
High Comp Pistons
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Mild Port
and a clean-up of the bottom end.
I would like new cams for more torque but was told the ECU would need to be upgraded if I was to do this - (Has anyone done this and not updated the ECU or done it without a UNIChip with any success??)
While the motor is out I will do as much as budget permits within reason - has anyone done any motor mods that they would recommend.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 10:24 am
by Noisey
Anyone got a block to suit a 6G72 motor that they would like to part with?
Motor is in pieces at the moment and the news is not good - has been rebuilt before and is already at its limits. Crank is worn and all valves need replacement on the intake side. The reco guy is trying to source a block for me to start again.
Basically he reckons the motor was pretty shagged before it went bye bye (Funny - 'cause I thought it was going pretty well apart from a fluffy idle)
Great news to hear after it being off the road now for nearly 4 weeks.
Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2004 3:11 pm
by RoldIT
Update?!
Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2004 7:05 am
by Noisey
Got a call from the guys doing the motor last night - paid for and ready to be dropped back in.
Complete rebuild top to bottom
Bored out and now running 9½ to 1 compression.
Match ported.
Will ring the mechanic doing the "dropping back in" a little later this morning to see if he can give me an ETA.
Hang'n to get shortie back.