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110 shocks
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 3:48 pm
by 110 TUFF
hi guy's
im lost in all the different shock brands and are looking for the best shock that will give the most travel for my rig. will be looking to suit defender 110 wagon, 3 inch lift on springs cranked arms front and rear and slotted bushes on the front. alloy bullbar on front, draw system in rear possible extra 50 kgs
I know it would be better to wait until i have fitted the gear and then test flex and measure ,but im interested in what anyone else is using and how they find their shocks performance.
also is anyone using or had trouble with pin to eye/ eye to pin converters?
any info would be good!
Cheers, Drew
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 5:42 pm
by modman
how much $$$$$$$$ you got??
try talking to andrew at lra, he has some nice bilsteins in at the moment that fit standard mounts. thay are the real 2"extra travel not just longer rods or bodies.
i would use them but saving for a house so monroe truck shocks for me.
you need to define what wheeling you do to narrow the choice down.
rocks, road, desert, sand, expedition or combination.
custom '88 series' konis (longer, std. mounts) seem nice, but $500 a shock.
if i had my druthers toy 80 series front shocks,
rear truck konis revalved to suit lr 110. all lr110std brand shocks fail because they won't carry heavy loads. defender110's place a lot of leverage on the rear shocks.
modman
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 6:00 pm
by landy_man
eye/pin converters give less uptravel and more downtravel as you move the mount of the shock upwards... which means lengthening or spacing shock towers
shock brands...either Bilstein or Koni..... or perhaps the 14" monroes(sp) that Mogrover runs. I believethey are actually designed for some Ford car.
I have Koni's on my Rangie because they were cheap (2nd hand), could be modified by Toperformance(Koni agent) to suit the Rangies mounts as well as valving, they are rebuildable pretty cheap, and adjustable, but you have to be taken off the vehicle not like the Rancho's and Pro Comps.
A mate runs the new Rangie Spares Bilsteins.. His car has always handled well. They are pricey and not sure how rebuildable.
With your front suspension, you should consider the weight of a winch into the equation as you will inevitably end up with one and then your car looks like a dragster
p.s.
search is you friend... there is heaps of info on shocks and suspension
there is 68 search results for suspension and 44 search results for shocks just in the rover section....
search is your friend
Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2003 7:56 am
by bazzle
Remember to take into account longer shocks wont compress to same length as standard shocks and bump stops will need to be made longer.
bazzle
Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2003 11:29 am
by modman
moving the bumpstops is the cheap way that won't improve artic. or make the vehicle handle any better.(rough!!!!)
the proper way is to move mounts so the shock gets full up travel but does not bottom out.
how many bullshit patrol,cruiser,rangies do you see with 3" lift springs and shocks that wouldn't droop an extra 1" because they are allready maxed out.
MINIMUM LIFT = MAXIMUM HANDLING, (road,rocks and mud)