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Pertronix and Bosch GT40R
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:33 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
can anyone tell me if the bosch GT40R can handle working with the pertronix ignitor, i got the ignition on and worked ok for a while but all my ignition system is goin to sh*t, i am wondering if the coil cant take it? if so any suggestions on the right coil to use
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:27 pm
by g@z
Are you using a resistor with the coil?
Regards,
g@z.
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 5:51 am
by killer_garden_gnome
of coarse
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:48 am
by marin
I have always wondered if because i have the pertronix, whether i could get a non resistor coil and ditch the resistor? As far as i'm aware the resistor is to help stop arcing between the points, but seeing as they are now no longer there.....
marin
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 10:51 am
by nastytroll
cant you go to an electronic ingnition 75 000 v coil with no resistor with the pertronix?
Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:51 am
by patrol42
I run the Pertronix and have a GT40R and it runs fine. It still needs the ballast resistor though.
Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:34 pm
by g@z
The resistor is there to drop the volts at the coil, as the coil is designed to work at a certain voltage ( eg 9 volts). If you remove the resistor from a coil that needs it then it will get too much voltage and burn out.
I've also wondered about geting the non resistor coil too (GT40 I think) but I dunno enough about why they do it that way in the first place. I thought it was somthing to do with volts available when you crank the engine.
Reminds me I need a new coil and points
Regards,
g@z.
Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:41 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
yeh the coil is fine to use ive been told, and as stated they need a resistor or they will die the 12v is just for starting they run on 9v or somethin along those lines. my dizzy cap and rotor were toast not the coil as i thought, some knuckle head before me bent the rotor arm button bit which caused the rotor button to wear into the cap and go all loose.
Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:06 pm
by SLOGQ
Hey guys,
Just so you know, the resistor is there because the coil is designed to run on about 10 volts. The resistor is actualy bypassed then the vehicle is cranking because the voltage will drop to about 10 volts when the starter motor is turning the motor over. A STD non resistor coil will not make a decent spark to start the car at 10 volts, so the coil is just designed to run on 10 volts, hence the resistor.
You could get away with a high output 12 volt coil with electronic ignition coz even at 10 volts they will still make a decent spark.
Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:54 pm
by bucketofbolts
can anyone help me with the ignitor i've just installed,
its teh one that doesnt need the shaft to be modified,
i have wired it up and have no spark out of the coil, new coil,
im at a loss, any ideas or help would be great,
cheers ray