Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys... Newbie here, but with some off-road experience...
I'm seriously thinking of buying a V20 pajero 3.5 v6 with the face lift...



Since there were not many imports here in Greece, I'm about to buy it from Germany... I have some questions though...

1) I noticed that there are 2 versions of the 3.5 v6 model in Germany... one with 194 hp and another with 208 hp... why?

2) I'd like some info about the differentials of this vehicle... how many? anyone 100% lock? Generally speaking, how does this Super Select thing works?

3) Manual or Automatic transmission? Which one better for off-road?

4) I've read somewhere that the 3.5 v6 came out with a factory suspension lift.. true?

Hope someone helps me...
Thanx!

Hi, Really good truck, I think is the best Gen 2 Montero

Answer to your questions

1-) One 3.5 is DOHC the later one is SOHC. The Sohc has more grunt in low RPM.

2-) It has one of the strongest diff in the market, some has rear LSD and locker, some has only rear LSD and a really good unit. For more info check the Mitsu FAQ Tech Bible.

3-) Both gearboxes are good, I think I prefer the manual tranny for everything

4-) All 2.8 TDI, 3.5 V6 Sohc or Dohc came with a factory one inch body lift

For more info check the Mitsu Tech Bible, there you have all the specs.

Thank you Alej... very helpful
How will I know if the Pajero I'm about to buy has rear diff lock... I mean is there a button, or something like this, on the dashboard that indicates the diff lock option?

It has a button, it says "RD LOCK" Rear Differential Lock, Its located beside the aux 12 volt outlet, under the radio or cd player.

May I ask what's the life expectancy of the specific 3.5 v6 engine? Is it ok if I buy one with 100k km or should I look for less?

Chris wrote:May I ask what's the life expectancy of the specific 3.5 v6 engine? Is it ok if I buy one with 100k km or should I look for less?

Hey Chris,

I have a Pajero with the 3.5 V6 SOHC in it and it is almost up to 300,000kms, and it is still going really well, amazing engine, a little low on the torque compaired to my daily driver, but very smooth none the less. In my opinion one that has 100,000kms on it but has had its cam belt changed would be a really good buy.

Dexter wrote:

Chris wrote:May I ask what's the life expectancy of the specific 3.5 v6 engine? Is it ok if I buy one with 100k km or should I look for less?

Hey Chris,

I have a Pajero with the 3.5 V6 SOHC in it and it is almost up to 300,000kms, and it is still going really well, amazing engine, a little low on the torque compaired to my daily driver, but very smooth none the less. In my opinion one that has 100,000kms on it but has had its cam belt changed would be a really good buy.

Thanks Dexter... I've read that the SOHC engine has more torque mid range than the DOHC.... anyway, just to be sure: the 1997-2000 pajero, known as version 2.5 in USA, is known as V20 in Europe? Or I'm making a mistake?

Hi!
V20 is called every Pajero Gen II here in germany. exept the "Pajero
Classic" I think. The Classic is an "low budged" Version and it has the
"Easy Select" with no central diff an no locker in the rear (or LSD, I
dont know?). The Models 1997-2000 have no special name in germany.
The "Super Select" -system has got an an central diff with locker and
always the rear 100% locker I think. With "Super Select" you can choose
between 2H, 4H, 4HLC, 4LLC. --> 2 wheel drive / 4 wheel drive with open
central diff / 4 wheel drive with locked central diff / 4 wheel drive with
locked central diff and reduction. The rear locker can be set seperatly
with a button whene the central diff is locked.
I prefer the manual gearbox and for me its the better choose. With
the 2.8L TD engine it is great for offroad. I dont know how the manual
gearbox works with the 3.5L engine in offroad. But I think here in
germany it is harder to get the 3.5 engine with manual gearbox.

I hope this can help you a little bit!

Very helpfull! Thanks!!!
As a matter of fact, there are some Gen2.5 3.5 V6 Pajeros with manual gearbox in mobile.de... actually, I don't know if there's another German site with used cars, so, it's the only one I'm checking every now and then....
Myndron, do you know what emission class is the Gen2.5 (especially 1999-2000)? Euro 3 or Euro 4? I think this is written on your cars license. This is very important here in Greece (for customs) in order for me to check the import tax...

myndron wrote: I dont know how the manual
gearbox works with the 3.5L engine in offroad.

Brilliant.

autoscout24
Is a very big german platform for used cars too!

I dont know what emission class the 3.5 engine is.
A friend of mine drives one, I will ask him and give
you more information!

Manuel behind the 3.5 i have found to be a little sensative offroad. works well but when in say 2nd gear and on a climb it is easy to spin the wheels when you get to say about 4000rpm as a little to much throttle will spin all 4 wheels with ease and thats with a good set of muds on and a slightly greasy track. I havent driven an auto to compare. Once you get used to the throttle its a distant memery though. Other then that the top of the range (exceed here) in a manuel is a really good car and a pleasure to drive everyday But does seem to lack i little bit of low down torque.
I say buy one

myndron wrote:autoscout24
Is a very big german platform for used cars too!

I dont know what emission class the 3.5 engine is.
A friend of mine drives one, I will ask him and give
you more information!

Looking forward to... thnx

By the way... what's the difference between the "American dream" and the "Trophy" versions ?

Well, the car's been bought from Germany, and it's on it's way to Greece!
It's the "American dream" version, 1999 model. Super-select, rear diff lock, adjustable shocks, etc. on it, as standard features. 90k kilometers on the clock (hope genuine).
First thing to do is take it for a service. Don't know what to replace though! I know so far that cam belt and water pump must be changed... but what else?
I've read that it's 10k klm between each oil change. How much klm for each "big" service?
One more thing, what's the biggest tyre diameter it can run, without any suspension mods?
Thanks in advance...

I think with a NL you could get a 32 in there, I used to run 31s bog standard. But with a 2 inch suspension lift you could get 33s, my 34.6's almost fitted with just a 2/2.5 inch suspension lift. But mine is a GLX and doesnt have any of those side guards.

Ok... so 32s with no suspension mods...
What's better though, if mods is a choice and in order to fit bigger than 32s... suspension lift or body lift?
I've read that cranking the T-bars affects the IFS down travel... that's a disadvantage...
Generally, what's the best/correct/effective way to fit, for example 35s, and gain more (especially front) suspension travel?
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers

Chris wrote:Ok... so 32s with no suspension mods...
What's better though, if mods is a choice and in order to fit bigger than 32s... suspension lift or body lift?
I've read that cranking the T-bars affects the IFS down travel... that's a disadvantage...
Generally, what's the best/correct/effective way to fit, for example 35s, and gain more (especially front) suspension travel?
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers

To fit 35s I did a suspension lift and was able to drive, with almost no scrubbing at all, only hard lock on the rear of the front arches. However, after lifting the body I have had no scubbing at all. You could probably get away with 2 inch suspension + 1 inch body lift, then you might be able to avoid all the stuffing around with the gear leavers and such(a real bloody pain)

Thanks mate...

What's the backspace and offset of Gen2 Pajero wheels?
What size of wheels should I choose (15x7 or 15x8) in order to fit 31s and later 33s?

Chris wrote:What's the backspace and offset of Gen2 Pajero wheels?
What size of wheels should I choose (15x7 or 15x8) in order to fit 31s and later 33s?

Backspace? NFI. Offset? Gen 2 15x7 alloys (such as NJ ) are a +10mm offset.

For 31x10.5 I'd stick with factory 15x7 alloys.

If you choose to go to 33 x 10.5 (limited selection of tyres) then the same rims will be OK. If you want 33 x 12.5 (the "traditional" 33" tyre) then even a 15x8" rim is technically illegal in Australia - 15 x 8.5 is the minimum.

Whichever size tyre you choose, I recommend "Patrol fitment" (zero offset) before "Cruiser fitment" (negative 20mm or so). Having said that, a number of members here happily run 'Cruiser rims.

Cheers,

Scott

What Scott said!

Patrol fitment you will get bigger tyres without rubbing also, otherwise when turning and suspension compression they will hit on rear of the front wheel arch.

I have tried cruisers on mine and could get at least one bigger size using std offset. (33 x 10.5 on factory alloys)

Thanks for the replies guys...

So, with stock wheels I can get 33x10.5 without rubbing... I guess? Bodylift necessary for 33s?

By the way what kinda wheels would you guys recomend? I mean, is it silly that I stick with 15'' and would be better to go for 16'' or 17'' wheels?

Yes, I run 33 x 10.5 and did so before I put the longer springs in (I only put heavier springs in to stop it bottoming on bumps with with a load on)

You will get the 10.5's on without a lift but only on std offset rims. If yours is the 99 model it'll have flared guards and.... maybe silly question - can you get 15 inch rims on it?? Some of those models had bigger brakes.

NJV6 wrote:.... maybe silly question - can you get 15 inch rims on it?? Some of those models had bigger brakes.

Thanks NJV6! Good point there... as soon as I get the car back from the mechanic I'll check it out...

The previous owner had 18'' alloys with 285/55r18 tyres! The spare wheel though, is factory 15x7... so I took it for granted that this dimension is the appropriate... dunno! The thing is, that it is difficult to find factory rims of this model here in Greece, cause there were very few imports. Hope to get my hands on these 15s very soon, in order to fit some serious tyres...

Happy wheeling!

Hi guys... sorry for bothering you again...
has anybody tried 17'' Nissan Titan rims on a Pajero NL? I checked the space between the brake disks and the 15'' factory wheels and it was too small... A friend of mine (former 4X4 Rally driver, with a lot of experience on Mitsubishi) suggested that 16'' or even 17'' rims would be better with a 265-70r17 tyre on it... what's your opinion?
Cheers

I was just wondering what are these I've outlined in red, and where can I find them...



Cheers...

They are part of the factory sidesteps that clip onto the bodywork. I have a set here from one I wrecked but your just a tad far away to get them!

I just removed my factory sidesteps and the "corners" are different... you see, the ones in the picture are somehow beveled and shorter... the pajero model they're on is "Trophy" version from Germany... so, I guess there are 2 kinds of these "corners", the ones with the sidestep and those without it... what I'd like to know is what's the correct word in English, in order to search for them
better view below, I hope...

this is the NL Trophy...

Hi,
I've decided to fit Pro Comp rims; 16x8 size, 6x5,5 bolt pattern, 4,5 backsapcing, 0 offset...
According to Cooper's tyre specs I can run even 285/75r16 (33'') on an 8 inch rim...
Tyres will be Cooper Discoverer STTs... in fact, I had a set of these tyres and they had a good all around grip...

any comments?

anyone ever tried TSL's TRXUS M/T tyres?