Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I want to put a Weber onto my stock sierra. I got a quote for the entire setup at $450. Is this a good price.????
Cheers Darren

My 2c on this is that there are currently 9 pages in the "whose got a weber on a sierra" thread and people are still debating setup.

IMHO they are not suitable for an offroad motor, and will prodoce negligable gains on an otherwise stock engine. save your money and wait until you can afford EFI.

I have never had one myself, just going on others experiences. some people sware by them. Have a good read of the thread on them and make up your own mind.

I fyou have had lots of experience tuning them and have a good undertanding of how they work, then you mght be fine, otherwise, you will be chasing the tuning forever.

Steve.

10 pages now
i bought TBI to go on my 1.3 just cos it will be easier to get tuned right. just means more wiring involved etc.

Depends on what you are doing with your zook. They are AWSOME on road heaps more power but Im still trying to get mine to run in the silly places I put my zook. It must be possible as the yanks love them. Ive just printed maybe 50 + pages of info and emailed Sarge in the states to try to make it work.
$450 is alot I bought my weber $80 from wreckers $70 for rebuilt kit $20 for adapter and maybe $20 on jets.
Suzi sport were doing fuel injection for $499 a while back.
Nik

thanks for the replys, nic which wreckers did you get your carby from.???

Nik did you run yours with a fuel pressure reg as well? most of the states guys run one so they can back the pressure off. spoke with sarge a fair bit on this and built4thrashing on here went through it all as well.

I just went to the local wreckers and asked for a weber of a 2lt cortina, it probly came on other cars but this was before I realy knew much about them just bolted it on and went.
I didnt run a fuel regulator but Im getting one tomorrow as Im putting the weber on the 1600.
I went out on the weekend and with the standard carb it was a pig to start when hot and WOULDNT start on angles.
I previously had trouble with stuttering going uphill with the weber on backwards. Turns out my float is too low ( 41-51mm) as mine is a plastic float and has factory settings of 35-51 41-51 is too low. I too have messaged Sarge he said the top float level should be parallel with the top cover when you set it.
Nik

i got my weber of a fiat as they are a bit smaller 26/28 and are easyer to set up you have to put a plastic float in it i still have a few problems becaues i'm to lazey to fix it

Mine was fine until I fixed it
Ordered the fuel regulator today, tried to order jets that where the troble started.
Im going to try some f50 e tubes but the carb shop dosnt think he can get them anymore.
Im going to start setting it up tomorrow but with the 1600 I dont think it will fit under the bonnet.
Nik

what do you mean you don't like my roof try rampage for your parts or look in the phone book for pommy car repairers [mg mini ect ect] or try the guy at barnsley who fixes old mg's rovers he might be able to sorce them for you

NIK wrote: Suzi sport were doing fuel injection for $499 a while back.
Nik

that dont sound to bad!!!! im guessing the difference would be huge form just a carby 1.3 to fuel injection!! for $500 sounds like a good mod!

Yeah if I had the money!
I got my weber on and running, its amazing what the right float level does!
I just followed the instructions and went with 41-51 mm but it was sucking air going uphill. Now with it set to 35-51 it goes great uphill and hasnt changed the downhill but I still have to instal a regulator to slow the fuel for offroad.
It just fit under the bonnet but the engine is starting to run a little warm at 4000rpm on the highway.
Its got a brand new radiator thermostat and cap, and a bonnet scoop left over from the datto conversion that sucked!
When I drop the revs to 3000rpm it cools down straight away.
I have to do a bit more fiddling with the weber but its close!
Nik

Had another crack at the weber but I left all my tuning info at the mechanics yesterday
Checked the timing it was 0 degrees wtf?? So I set it at 9degrees wasnt sure as I think 1600 8v is 8deg btdc and on a 1300 its recommended 12deg btdc so I went in between.
It ran heaps better took out the flat spot just off idle but just started to ping when the secondaries were right open.
Hardly need to use the secondaries anyway it goes alot harder than the stock carb
Nik

most of the info you are after is in the weber topic i started. float heights, mods required for offroad , Jet settings, and fuel pressures is all discussed in there.

If you like to play about then webers are great as its so easy to tune them to suit your engine mods. once you get ya head around what each jet can do then things become easier.

The only things you really need for a good set up is extractors, fuel pressure regulator and an air intake that feeds air directly down into the throats. You will never tune it if air enters from the side like a stock carby.

have fun and if ya have any questions then post them in th other topic

just been to local hotrod shop and found out that you can buy a adaptor to put the fuel bowl on the side to stop fuel surge in their hill climb cars instead of a straight bolt on adaptor you get this one and it stops the air vents flooding its not cheap at $65 but if it stops all the head games it will be worth it let you know how it goes in a couple of weeks when i get it it replaces the one between the carb and manifold

The way i see it is if the weber was so crap offroad then why are there so many on suzukis and other 4x4 in the states? Every carby needs to be altered to work properly in the bush. its just lucky that most manufacturers did this for you.

The weber post is so long now because in the start NO BODY had any idea how to make them work. Now we do. And it aint that hard. Alot cheaper and easier than going EFI (EFI is better) and it increases the performance on the road alot over the stock carby.

I used to have my zook at some rather nasty side angles without any probs. even had it on its side and it was still running (just). Up hills it was ok and only on really steep downhills did it show any sigh of stalling.

Fuel economy was better than expected when just cruising but if you had a heavy foot it would empty a tank in under 200kms.

So if you want more grunt and cant afford EFI or forced induction then a weber is ALL GO.

B4T I agree with what your saying, it seems in the uk su,s are the go in the states webers are it but here its stock cause nothing else works?
So many people cant be wrong can they?
Did you see the thread on izook about using Hardley Ableson carbs on a modified manifold to flow straight in the side no funky adapters.
But back to the webers EVERYTHING Ive read says you have to run a fuel reg to lower pressure offroad. Ive been having trouble with not getting enough fuel after I installed the reg, but it seems now this isnt the go instead use a bypass filter with the bypass necked down to 1mm orifice as it supplies a more consistent flow over the reg which drops flow until it builds up pressure again if that makes sense.
When you set the reg after each pump of the throttle the pressure drops off between it and the carb breifly but this is enough to cause probs offroad on angles when the jets are just under fuel.
Nik

i agree with what you all say but im going to buy this new adaptor to see if it helps the weber is a realy easy carb to work on i've set mine up but i'm ready to try other things. eg twin su's. .s/s carb of a hd the s/s is a flat side carb or maybe a normal hd carb or four zzr 600suzuki flatsides big horsepower carbs who knows what i'll try

I tried a 40 dfi and that sucked for everything under 3000rpm but it'd fly very fast with heaps of grunt once it got over 4000 Stalled out and couldnt get it to idle properly so i got a 3k carby IMHO way better for 4bying. After all the muckin around i could have almost bought an efi kit and set it all up.

Kitika wrote:I tried a 40 dfi and that sucked for everything under 3000rpm but it'd fly very fast with heaps of grunt once it got over 4000 Stalled out and couldnt get it to idle properly so i got a 3k carby IMHO way better for 4bying. After all the muckin around i could have almost bought an efi kit and set it all up.

but then i got a mate who fixes bikes so i can do a littel work an get a set of carbys

Im currently using a 4k colorra carby but its having issues with overfueling and a sticking secondary Not good when trying to stop quick on the fwy.

When the house is finished completely im gonna adapt a rangie SU and see how that goes.

I enjoy playing with the carbys and would rather them over EFI just for that reason.

I like to be different

croatian4x4 wrote:

NIK wrote: Suzi sport were doing fuel injection for $499 a while back.
Nik

that dont sound to bad!!!! im guessing the difference would be huge form just a carby 1.3 to fuel injection!! for $500 sounds like a good mod!

I have asked about that same set up and dont bother!!
Its only the basics, 2nd hand manifold and throtel body
then you need the wiring loom$$ computer if the one that comes with the loom is shagged $250 and someone to wire it all up $$$ (if you dont have the time or know how on auto elec)
Plus fuel regulator and pumps $$$, Yeah you can get stuff out of other cars from wreckers or friends to suit but you dont know how long they will last so be expecting $200 to $300 for just those 2 as well
Dont you just hate false advertising
One last thing, its only Suzisport International that sell it like this...not suzisport shops... yes there is a difference

Hmm thats why Im sticking with the carby, yes it takes a bit of fiddleing but its way cheaper. I dont need to pay others to instal this and fix that just some spare time a nice test area and a screw driver to get the float just right.
Nik

I'm not carby bashing (which is a change ) but just pointing out some of the EFI myths.

If you have an FSM for the EFI donor car, EFI is sooooo much easier to diagnose and fix than a carby it's not funny.

If the Check engine light comes on, install the diagnostic link and it will tell you the problem. to confirm, follow the procedure in the manual for that sensor (procedures for checking each sensors function are in the FSM)

If you have a multimeter and the FSM, you can troubleshoot EFI. The computer will tell you when you have fixed the problem.

The ECM's pretty durable (will take dunking, reverse polarity and most other things you could do to a car) and interestingly, a single circuit failure doesn't neccessarily junk the whole ECM - my 660 will not currently run the fuel pump, so I bypassed that and the engine runs fine.

Every old carby car I come across has had every adjustment cranked way out of spec - timing, idle speed etc, because its easy to do. funnily enough though, if you put them back to spec, they tend to run better.

I don't understand the complexities of a carby at all - to me they are like staring at the mechanics of a wristwatch, but the way that EFI works is pretty simple - it's mostly A+B=C stuff.

Yes, it is more expensive, initially. The advantages are just massive though I woudl never build a car with a carby.

Steve.

Steves not carby bashing?? I think Im on the wrong board
Seriously though the way you talk about the simplicity of efi over the complexity of a carb although I dont understand I can relate as I prefer the simplicity of the carb.
I supose its what youve used and been exposed to, Ive no dout efi is GREAT and would solve alot of issues carbs have but the cost in parts and someone with knowledge makes it out of the question for me. If I want to keep my second car it has to be cheap and that means I have to be able to do 99% of the work too.
Everything is a compromise and this is one for me. I also agree about carbs been tampered with, mine was fine until I touched it make sure you have the right carb settings
Nik

webs are easy to work on jets butterflys and a lot of swearing but ask any old guy they love them and s/us are even easyer next is cv carbs you can fix any of them enough to get you home after all thats the main thing when your stuck in the bush

boner59 wrote:i agree with what you all say but im going to buy this new adaptor to see if it helps the weber is a realy easy carb to work on i've set mine up but i'm ready to try other things. eg twin su's. .s/s carb of a hd the s/s is a flat side carb or maybe a normal hd carb or four zzr 600suzuki flatsides big horsepower carbs who knows what i'll try

got my new adaptor today it did not fit bugger so the crew at rampage are going to see if redline will make them for us if there is enough interest come on guys lets see if we can get them made.boner

go to auto1 or similar and ask for a weber 32/36 to aisin base. they will have a book there.. probably cost 30-50 bucks mate.

have one of them the one im looking at turns the carby east west not north south they ar 65 dollars if i can get one

the only problem i can see with this adaptor is it will be fine on up and down hills but flood out on side slopes. In a zook you are more likely to be on a massive side slope than a steep up/down hill