Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Im in the process of pulling the hubs of to do the front bearings and inner seals,
i have removed the hub cover and the 6 nuts and spring washers i need to know to get those cone washers out to remove the hub body?
it says in the book to use a suitable pin punch and hammer to remove them but how?.. all i have is a hammer and screwdriver

thanks

Adam

whoneedsbitumen wrote:Im in the process of pulling the hubs of to do the front bearings and inner seals,
i have removed the hub cover and the 6 nuts and spring washers i need to know to get those cone washers out to remove the hub body?
it says in the book to use a suitable pin punch and hammer to remove them but how?.. all i have is a hammer and screwdriver

thanks

Adam

tap the side of the hub. they should pop out

or get a new set of studs (like 1 buck each) and hit the studs head on pretty hard. that should pop the cone washers, and any threads you stuff, big deal, your replacing them anyway.

put the nuts back on until the ends of the studs are flsh with the studs. use a brass drift and give the ends of the studs a sharp whack. you can also tap the side of the hub adjacent to the stud but if you deform the hub the cne will not re-seat properly. If they haven't been off in a long time, soak in WD40 or similar, back off the nuts one turn, put it in 4WD and go for a bit of a drive - 5 - 10km, then give it a try. if you use this method, it's best to replace the studs.

Read this http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=114276

i have a high tensile bolt+nut that I partly screw onto the ends of the stud.. i give this a few bashes to pop out the cone washer.. so far it doesnt seem to to have damaged the thread on the stud yet...

this bolt is also used to screw into the cv shaft so i can pull it out when replacing the snap ring..

what are other peoples thoughts on this method? advised or not?

i havent got a hold of a brass drift yet...

I use a brass drift and give the studs a good few hard whacks. Never thought of leaving the nut on for a bit of extra safety but i've never damaged the threads using the drift.

-Stu

dogbreath_48 wrote:I use a brass drift and give the studs a good few hard whacks. Never thought of leaving the nut on for a bit of extra safety but i've never damaged the threads using the drift.

-Stu

x2

Some leave the nuts on to reduce the chance of losing a collet, they tend to get very camoflaged once they hit the deck.

shorty_f0rty wrote:i have a high tensile bolt+nut that I partly screw onto the ends of the stud.. i give this a few bashes to pop out the cone washer.. so far it doesnt seem to to have damaged the thread on the stud yet...

this bolt is also used to screw into the cv shaft so i can pull it out when replacing the snap ring..

what are other peoples thoughts on this method? advised or not?

i havent got a hold of a brass drift yet...

Life can be so much easier with the right tools - shout yourself a good brass drift - Tradetools have then cheap as chips....

Cheers

Thanks guys worked all that out in the end, nothing that a hammer couldnt fix, now i just got to get the inner oil seal out

any suggestions to make it easier than destroying it with a screwdriver ?

whoneedsbitumen wrote:now i just got to get the inner oil seal out

any suggestions to make it easier than destroying it with a screwdriver ?

no matter what you use, you will destroy it, its a seal that you want to replace everytime you are in there anyway, only about $5 each.

whoneedsbitumen wrote:Thanks guys worked all that out in the end, nothing that a hammer couldnt fix, now i just got to get the inner oil seal out

any suggestions to make it easier than destroying it with a screwdriver ?

you are going to replace the seal right?

so destroy it

Tap a small flat head screw driver into the side of it, making sure you dont damage the inner part of the diff.
Twist slightly, this should now allow you to put the screw driver between the seal, and diff housing, a gentle twist, and it should pop out.

When fitting new seal, apply very thin smear of gorilla snot to its outside, and gently, and evenly tap in the new seal with a large flat faced punch, or if you have it, a socket just undersize of the seal.
Apply plenty of rubber grease to the inside of the seal where it runs on the axle, and also put some on the axle, being carefull as you re insert the axle that it dosent tear, or rub on the new seal when you refit it.

T