60 Series Auto to Manual Conversion
Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 8:15 am
Just finished switching out the auto for a 5 speed in the 60. She has a 2H with turbo running 10psi. The auto box decided to lose all interest in going forwards so I thought it was time to ditch it for the manual cog swapper. Performance has increased so much I cant believe its the same car. Must have had a dud auto or something. Long story short, why would Toyota make it so freakin' hard to change auto to manual. My old commodore had all the holes and brackets there straight up. With the cruiser, I had to weld on new mounts for the crossmember, cut holes for the clutch master, pull the entire dash out to change the pedal box (because of one tiny piece that is missing from the auto pedal box for the clutch pedal). Half the stuff is so easy to swap, and the bolt holes are all there, but the rest is a PITA. Anyone done this same swap?
For those considdering it, you will need:
- Gearbox, clutch, flywheel and backing plate.
- Gearstick and transfer case lever.
- Spiggot bearing ($5.10 at repco)
- Driveshafts (different length to auto)
- Front flooring (carpet or vinyl)
- Plate that bolts to floor that goes around the gearstick, and boots etc.
- Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder with all piping.
- Holesaw to cut clutch pedal hole through firewall. About 40mm.
- Pedal box with clutch pedal. (Have to remove dash and windscreen defrost ducting to get it out)
- Steel angle and welder to make new brackets to bolt the crossmember to. Auto mounts are further back by half a metre.
- Fuel pump is different, as the auto doesnt have edic etc. I am sticking with the auto pump as it works just fine.
- Spring to increase tension on the throttle cable. (Makes it less touchy)
The good points:
- Spiggot goes straight into the crank no dramas.
- Starter motor is the same.
- Performance increase is MASSIVE.
The bad points:
- Making new mounts for gearbox crossmember.
- Trying to change that pedal box is really annoying.
- Have to drill and cut holes for the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps someone...
For those considdering it, you will need:
- Gearbox, clutch, flywheel and backing plate.
- Gearstick and transfer case lever.
- Spiggot bearing ($5.10 at repco)
- Driveshafts (different length to auto)
- Front flooring (carpet or vinyl)
- Plate that bolts to floor that goes around the gearstick, and boots etc.
- Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder with all piping.
- Holesaw to cut clutch pedal hole through firewall. About 40mm.
- Pedal box with clutch pedal. (Have to remove dash and windscreen defrost ducting to get it out)
- Steel angle and welder to make new brackets to bolt the crossmember to. Auto mounts are further back by half a metre.
- Fuel pump is different, as the auto doesnt have edic etc. I am sticking with the auto pump as it works just fine.
- Spring to increase tension on the throttle cable. (Makes it less touchy)
The good points:
- Spiggot goes straight into the crank no dramas.
- Starter motor is the same.
- Performance increase is MASSIVE.
The bad points:
- Making new mounts for gearbox crossmember.
- Trying to change that pedal box is really annoying.
- Have to drill and cut holes for the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps someone...