Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What do i need removed (or edited ) exactly to use this engine and factory computor in my Maverick wagon?
I know the VATS has to be disabled. But what about the VSS? Is there any other inputs that need to be tidied up? Im interested to hear from people in the know on specific things about this computor. Cheers from anybody who knows.

Thanks, Nik.

Its quite often cheaper and less hassle to exchange your ECU for one that has already been edited.

But your correct. VATS, is one example. Depends on what other sensors your going to be running really.

In reply to your PM, just the VATS should be ample, also run a speed sensor from your transfer case, this can be inhibited but if you want to do the conversion properly its best to keep, unless you dont care about fuel economy

yes i do care about economy. it will be a daily driver so fuel use is an issue. what speed sensor did you use on your jag?

henry wrote:yes i do care about economy. it will be a daily driver so fuel use is an issue. what speed sensor did you use on your jag?

The factory one, as I used the transmission from the VXII

http://www.marks4wd.com/products/speed_ ... speed.html

you need one of them, not only available from marks, but was easy link to find

yeah thanks for that cloughy. i might wait till its in and running before it get that part. its not crucial, just saves a bit of juice hey. money better spent elsewhere at this point.

I use EFI Live to tune these, I wouldn't worry too much about the speed sensor for economy. The main benefit for the speed sensor is to tell the ECU when the car is approaching very low speed (under 5klms usually)so it can resume idle speed control. It is also important for the auto shift pattern although it is quite possible tune the auto based soley on RPM shifts. For maximum economy you need to retain the factory O2 sensors and the MAF meter. The vehicle can be tuned for speed density but the combination of speed density(MAP/MAT) and Mass air gives the ECU the most accurate info in regards to the amount of air going into the engine and therefore the correct fuel to meter. I would suggest a full tune as there are gains to be had and the mass of your vehicle, gearing and so on will mean the tune that suits a Commodore will not be optimum for your patrol.

Regards

Joel

Thanks for that info joel. I have been advised to retain the Maf meter as it can more accurately calculate for changes in air density, ie changes in altitude. weather etc. im not after summernats horsepower heroes places, just a strong motor for my truck.

What about a cam to strengthen up the bottom end and let the motor breathe better? Anyone had a good cam they would recommend for this motor, or just a good cam profiler that will do what im after? Nothing custom, want to keep costs down.

Retaining th MAF is for fuel economy vs 10-15hp, I'm keeping mine, but i'm not a dyno queen, or racing 698 other gen 3;s at calder

Comp cams, Crow or whoever, look them up on the net, you'll need springs at the same time, fark the stock springs are weak as piss

Oh yea, best to do it with the motor out anyway, you have to drop the sump to realign the timing cover, unless your a rough crunt of course

yea cloughy, i am looking into the cam idea before it goes in the truck, and before i fit up my new sump. a mate told me the stock springs are weak. if the wrong oil has been put in these motors the valves can stick, letting the piston hit them and engine failure. i feel these motors have a bad name amongst some people for the wrong reasons. mainly poor servicing or the incorrect servicing.

What about a cam to strengthen up the bottom end and let the motor breathe better? Anyone had a good cam they would recommend for this motor, or just a good cam profiler that will do what im after? Nothing custom, want to keep costs down.

iv got a Comp Cams 212/218 @ 114 in my ute, with rods, and springs etc to go with it, plus a tune, exhaust etc. Cant recommend that grind enough for this engine, great mid range power, but still got a strong top end to 7400rpm. Mines a manual, 6th used to be pointless unless u were doing 120+, now it accelerates up hills in 6th, and lugs around at lower in all other gears much easier. Fuel economy increased slightly, but hardly noticable. I dont know what box your running, but the standard Ls1 clutch will die VERY fast once powered up a bit. Thats a very mild cam, only a slight difference in idle, but for what u need i think it would suit well.

i looked at the comp cams website nayto. that cam or the one below it would be good. how much was the cam?

henry wrote:i looked at the comp cams website nayto. that cam or the one below it would be good. how much was the cam?

sorry mate, i was tryin to remember how much it was when i was posting that before, but i cant

I'm running a similar Comp Cam with a To4Zr Roller Turbo. There is a great range of high lift Comp Cams that with a set ov valve springs(Comp or Crow Behive singles) are top performers all round. The std camshaft has very wide lobe centres and is quite soft down low, stay under 218 degrees inlet duration at .050 for auto trans with std converter.

Joel

PGS 4WD wrote:I'm running a similar Comp Cam with a To4Zr Roller Turbo. There is a great range of high lift Comp Cams that with a set ov valve springs(Comp or Crow Behive singles) are top performers all round. The std camshaft has very wide lobe centres and is quite soft down low, stay under 218 degrees inlet duration at .050 for auto trans with std converter.

Joel

what have u got this engine in? and what power is it making

To answer your earlier question nayto i am going to run the patrol 5 speed.

I might go the cam under the one you got as it works from 800 to 5500 rpm, its the 206-212@50 deg. with 112 deg sep.