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transfer id required

Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 3:21 pm
by tiggr
Hi to all , im in need of some parts for my 87 RR transfer and was advised that there are 2 different cogs for that year/transfer box and there should be a prefix / number on the case somewhere .The only numbers i could see was the ratio of 1.2222222222 on there , so i was kinda hoping for a slap behind the left ear as to where i would find this ????
Finally fixed my timing cover up , great fun -not and now running "Redline wetter water " .
Having also had a Haltec E6X fitted up made an incredible difference over the ol Lucas AM system , but still having a few bugs sorted like it won't idle smoothly until at operational temp of 84degs .
anyway seasonal greetings to all

???

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 9:46 am
by mav
what was wrong with your timing cover ??? what did the Haltec E6X cost???

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:45 pm
by Bush65
Number is stamped on rear left of transfer case, just above bottom cover plate or below the PTO cover plate.

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 5:51 pm
by tiggr
Thanks John , will get out some more degreaser !!
The timing cover got eaten thru between the 2 water ports with cancer , it looked like a pepper pot there were so many holes . The Haltec was $1545 with all sensors and stepper , i had the dizzy done as a hall sensor and paid this "expert " -note used loosly- to fit it up .He did the fitting not as i wanted it as he wired the ecu under my drivers seat when i wanted it hight up , and he didn't dyno it ! He just drove around with the laptop and apprentice in the pass seat adjusting it .So most of the problems i susspect stem from that .
The Haltec does free up the motor alot and in all honesty you don't get the horse power they say you do [ i was quoted 35% ] but recon its more like 20% the fuel econ went up by 65 km per tank around town . The biggest benifit is the loss of that damn air flow meter and all the wiring that goes with it :D

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 7:19 pm
by Evan
Some may disagree but when tuning motec usually do a lambda tune (Motec feature to get a rough tune using O2 readings from sensor in exhaust, not the factory one, usually a bosch one) and then you drive, in my case usually round a track (no not the 4wd) and tune it that way.
Tuning while driving in all conditions i think is better than dyno, not to say a dyno isn't useful it is for lots of things like full power runs but nothing beats real world.

E