Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How are you all going

I'm going to replace my front wheel bearings and all the seals including the steering on Thursday I was wondering if anyone has had any experience doing this?
How hard is it to push the bearings on and off?
And what is a rough cost on the kits?

I’ve done the rear bearings & seals before are they as hard to get off as that?

Cheers any additional info is also much appreciated.

P.S. I have the manual but where it is another thing

Shouldn't be anywhere near as hard to get the bearings out of the hub. I use a brass drift, a hammer and a little patience.

-Stu

Perfect i was hoping to hear that

Reuse the old bearing cone outers to help "drift" in the new ones.
Take your time and clean up the hub so it's all like new when it all goes back together......
Cheers Dave

Thanks Dave

so are they 2 piece bearings unlike the rear or am i just getting mixed up

BEN_R wrote:Thanks Dave

so are they 2 piece bearings unlike the rear or am i just getting mixed up

they are a pair of tapered roller bearings on the front as the front is a full floating system.

so they will have the rollers in the cage, and then the outer ring which you need to resistance fit to the hub.

Youl need to punch your old outer's out, and then fit your new ones. The hub has a set of keyways in it to allow you to punch the old ones out. Best to clean the hub right out so you can see what your doing.

When punching the new one in, find a socket the right size to use as a punch, (its going to need to be a big farker) or use the old outer ring to punch the new one in, dont punch it all the way with the old outer ring or the old outer ring will get stuck in there with it.

The last part you need to punch home with a steel punch. The reason it should be steel is so you dont contaminate your grease with fine brass pieces. If you use a brass punch just make sure you clean it out well before you grease it up.

Tap it a little at a time and work your way around the ring. Try to punch it in as parallell as possible.

Do yourself a favour and get a hold of a repair manual if you dont have one yet. Lots of helpful tips in there. If you follow the gregories etc, you cant go wrong.

Do your knuckle bearings while you have the buggers apart too.

A FULL kit from CBC- Bearings for wheels and nuckles, Seals for hubs and axles and knuckles should only cost in the vicinity of $200. you'll need about 1kg of grease per side too to fully fill the knuckles back up again- i greased my CVs up, then slid them into the housing and fitted the stub axles back on, and a 400gm tube of grease didnt even 2/3 fill the knuckle!

Best grease for cv's would be castrol LMM or same style of grease in whatever brand you prefer it's a high load grease and is recomended for cv's and not that dear for a decent size tin from repco

Sic Lux wrote:Best grease for cv's would be castrol LMM or same style of grease in whatever brand you prefer it's a high load grease and is recomended for cv's and not that dear for a decent size tin from repco

the shell equivalent is about 1/4 of the price if you go to one of the big shell truck stop servo's.

Yeah use shell oils etc at work and for a while there the tyre shine smelt like staill fuel and didn't work well WTF. It's sorted now and i Guess every dollar counts

cheers to everybody for their feedback it was a big help as i still cant find my manual

finished and cost around $250 and still half a tub of grease left over