Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I`m cleaning up this cheap zook ute i picked up recently & found some rust in the floor pan at the seam under the pedals.

It is was under the tacky tar like body deadener that covers the whole floor, i pulled the seats out & its under them to...everything sticks to the crap!!!

I want to scape all this all off so i can repair & repaint...its probably the only thing holding the whole floor together but i`m a fussy prick. Anyone tried to get this off before...whats the best thing to use if any apart from 4 hours of using a scraper?? or should i get over i & leave it (can you paint over it).

Here is an idea of mine that is, as yet unproven, get some granulated dry ice and spread it over the area, wait a few minutes and then give it a light tap from underneath with a rubber mallet, it should come off in sheets.

Dry ice is really cheap and you can make some fantastic dry ice bombs with the left overs
Peter.

droopypete wrote:Here is an idea of mine that is, as yet unproven, get some granulated dry ice and spread it over the area, wait a few minutes and then give it a light tap from underneath with a rubber mallet, it should come off in sheets.

Dry ice is really cheap and you can make some fantastic dry ice bombs with the left overs
Peter.

yeah it works it is how a lot of drift guys remove the sound deadning in cars but you need to use a hammer and chisel there will be some slight stucky residue but it is easily scraped off

i scraped mine with a paint scraper and a few beers etc and a big bunch of patience. i scraped about two shopping bags full out of my one as the saltwater tends to make it 'gooey'
ill hunt some photos down for ya.

here ya go

before

half way through the under the seat area.


dont wear good clothes when doing it.. and wear thongs or something as it gets everywhere..

wow - all that using a little plastic spoon?!

Use a heat gun.

I disagree with heat or solvent.

The key is to do it cold. The colder the better. I have pulled the deadening out of about 4 cars over the years and only the first one got any heat or solvent.

Just use a broad chisel and hammer. Once you get into the swing of it, it will lift in quite large chunks.

If it gets solvent on it or gets hot you are in for a world of pain. Shouldn't take more than an hour or so per side, tops. Once all the sheet is out, you will be left with some marks on the floor that wash off with solvent.

Pete's dry ice idea sounds good to me.

If it has already had oil or solvent on it, you are stuck with shifting it in its "wet" state.

steve.

Cheers guys, really appreciate the advice on this site

Here`s the all too familar pic for you all of where i`m at atm.

Zute wrote:Use a heat gun.

heat would make this stuff gooey as! i think for ease of use and lack of dry ice a scraper is the go. it doesnt take all that long.

alien - haha nah that plastic spoon along with lots of antacid sachets, ciggy butts etc were found under there.. i got the zook for 500 from a car yard last year.. some old guy used to drive it to the pub lots.. hence the antacid etc

I removed the tar stuff from the floor of my LWB body in about 1 and a half hours with a small hammer and a 1 inch wide cold chisel. It chipped away quite easily. No heat, No chemicals. Barely scratched the paint.

Where can I buy dry ice from??????

abundance84 wrote:Where can I buy dry ice from??????

BOC Gas stores sell it

want33s wrote:I removed the tar stuff from the floor of my LWB body in about 1 and a half hours with a small hammer and a 1 inch wide cold chisel. It chipped away quite easily. No heat, No chemicals. Barely scratched the paint.

I second that method, but I have no idea how to get the stuff off when it turns to sticky tar. I have a pic of the back floor after I chipped it all out. I've also done the foot wells & under the seats... Everything is now 'body deadener' free. I found sections of rust (and a reasonable rust hole nearest the column) so its definitely worth taking the stuff out - It's heavy, and it hides rust very well!

My 82 was nice and cured so it took a few hours to do the whole zuk But as said, cold is best to do it...

mine had all turned to goo from what i can only assume was submersion in salt water and let to sit.
the scraper worked a treat and when there was the odd solid bit it just lifted up in chunks.. either way good luck with it and see how you go.

Salt water won't affect it - it will have been oil or petrol that got to it.

It's bitumen based.

Steve.

fair enough.. must have been a lot of oil.. it was the entire floor.. possibly just old and shown no love.

abundance84 wrote:Where can I buy dry ice from??????

If you do get some granulated dry ice,

DO NOT get a small plastic coke bottle and DEFINATLY Do NOT fill it a third the way up with cold tap water, then WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT put 3 or 4 medium sized pieces of dry ice in and quickly put the lid on tight then throw it as far as you can, away from anyone else!!!!!!!!
Because if you do it will make a HUGE EXPLOSION and that would be irresponsible.
Peter

droopypete wrote:

abundance84 wrote:Where can I buy dry ice from??????

If you do get some granulated dry ice,

DO NOT get a small plastic coke bottle and DEFINATLY Do NOT fill it a third the way up with cold tap water, then WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT put 3 or 4 medium sized pieces of dry ice in and quickly put the lid on tight then throw it as far as you can, away from anyone else!!!!!!!!
Because if you do it will make a HUGE EXPLOSION and that would be irresponsible.
Peter

haha and definately dont laugh really hard and clink your beers together cos that would be encouraging such actions

Oh and I almost forgot,
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS, THAT WHAT EVER YOU DO, YOU MUST NOT YELL,
"hey guys watch this"
before you do it, or it will go tits up with out doubt!!!!!
Peter.

Got into it early this mornig with a old chisel & hammer...definately the go came up easy.

Found some decent rust in the corner under the pedals but not too bad for a 21 year old ute owed by a fisherman.

Cleaned up with turps.





Thanks for the advice lads.