Outer Limits 4x4 Board

how can i drill and tap diff housing to minimise the amount of swarf entering the diff. would a little bit of swarf be a drama? would it just end up getting caught by the magnet?

I am moving the breather to the top of the pumpkin, when i took the old breather out it was a tapped hole with the diff tube wall about 4mm thick. Should it be ok to put in on top of the diff housing and is the wall the same thickness.

As you can tell i'm trying to avoid having the diff centre out as it's a pain in the arse.

MILO

I'd be pulling the center out! Come on, it's not that harder job you pansy

Swarf probably wouldn't do much damage unless it got into a bearing, then you could be looking at a $500 diff rebuild

-Stu

bugger. I was hoping some one would pipe up and tell me a lazy way to do it

Oh well, i'm sure i could do with the practice of pulling out axles and re-doing the flange gaskets

ta dude

rockcrawler31 wrote:bugger. I was hoping some one would pipe up and tell me a lazy way to do it

Oh well, i'm sure i could do with the practice of pulling out axles and re-doing the flange gaskets

ta dude

Don't forget to bend all your flange studs then strip the threads out when your trying to straighten them up.

Why do you want to move it to the top of the pumpkin? I think you will have issues with oil getting pushed up and out of it from centrifugal force caused by the crownwheel if you fit it there.

Neatness - this way i can have the brake flexible line, locker air line, and breather coming from one spot, cable tied together.

Practicality - the pumpkin never seems to move much during articulation so i can have less cables/pipes flapping around particularly during compression to get snagged on stuff

And it's going to get in the way of my coil hats

I have also heard that toyota breathers in the stock position fail to work particularly when on a cross slope because the axle tube that they are on fill with oil and don't allow the air to flow. correct me if i'm wrong.

i was also going to put it above the carrier instead of above the crownwheel

dogbreath_48 wrote:

rockcrawler31 wrote:bugger. I was hoping some one would pipe up and tell me a lazy way to do it

Oh well, i'm sure i could do with the practice of pulling out axles and re-doing the flange gaskets

ta dude

Don't forget to bend all your flange studs then strip the threads out when your trying to straighten them up.

que hombre?

this sounds like experience.

i've gotten sick of continually trying to buy flange gaskets. I've had those damn axles out so many times i've resorted to using that blue silicone gasket stuff.

Yeah ultra blue best general gasket out

ive heard of grease coated drillbits to catch the swarf and then cleaned off and re-greased reguarly

Yeah same as taping a new thread just don't know how it'll go with the heat may work just drill slow

ferrit wrote:ive heard of grease coated drillbits to catch the swarf and then cleaned off and re-greased reguarly

also magnetizing the drill bits...
equate 1/2 an hr to pull the axle out, to how long it would take you to earn the $500 for a diff rebuild (without compromising on lifes other neccesities) if something went wrong?