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Kill Switch on EFI motor

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:45 am
by WICKED
Firstly, I know bugger all about motors and there wiring.

I have an EFI 250 Cross-flow 6 cyclinder Ford Falcon motor in an MQ patrol. I have a battary isolation switch not far from the battary (Passanger side)

I need to Wire the Isolation switch up as a Kill switch. i was fidelling with it on the weekend and found a wire coming out of a little canister that to another canister that thenn leads to the spark plugs. I started the motor then pull this wire out and the motor died strate away.

How do I wire this to the Kill switch so it works of the Igniton barrale? I don't want it to have constant power when the kill switch is on.

Pic below may or may not help...


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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:34 am
by WICKED
Hello??????????????????

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:08 pm
by chimpboy
Are you talking about the coil..?

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:24 pm
by WICKED
chimpboy wrote:Are you talking about the coil..?
As I said man i really don't know what its called, jsut where it sit's.

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:37 pm
by chimpboy
Anything like this?

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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:33 pm
by WICKED
chimpboy wrote:Anything like this?

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sure is and its the wire that runs from there to the spark leads i was gonna cut. but dont know anuthign about it or how it wroks

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:47 pm
by chimpboy
Okey dokey, that's not hard.

It's not a bad way to shut down the engine either.

There are two terminals, one -ve one +ve.

+ve gets power from the battery via the key barrel, it is powered up when the key is at IGN or START.

-ve gets a trigger signal from the distributor. Basically the dizzy connects/disconnetcs this wire from ground every time there's a spark required. That is then the signal that effectively tells the coil to send a spark down the coil lead to the spark plugs.

So basically you would cut the wire that goes to the +ve terminal to kill the motor.

Having said all that, I am not 100% sure what you want to do with your kill switch. If the kill switch actually disconnects all battery power then you don't need to do anything else. Or is the kill switch ONLY to shut the engine down?

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:16 pm
by WICKED
Its currently running as a battery isolation switch, so when its off there is no power any where. but for a comp i need it have the ability to be on running every thing the if it gets flicked off every thing dies (roll over, fire's, etc)

Abit clearer?

Do i need a realy or any thing like that?
If i wired it straight to the switch it will have power when ever the switch is on not when the key is, correct?

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 9:42 am
by chimpboy
Sorry, I forgot to reply to this.

If you have a switch that is fully isolating the battery, then I would have thought the engine would stop and basically everything would shut down when you pull that switch.

So you wouldn't need a second switch to kill the motor.

What does the kill switch on the guard do at the moment?

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:24 am
by sierrajim
chimpboy wrote:Sorry, I forgot to reply to this.

If you have a switch that is fully isolating the battery, then I would have thought the engine would stop and basically everything would shut down when you pull that switch.

So you wouldn't need a second switch to kill the motor.

What does the kill switch on the guard do at the moment?
Will still run on the alternator.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:25 am
by sierrajim
Revolution race gear have a switch that will do the job for you. One side does the battery, one side does the ignition system.

DO NOT WIRE your winch through the kill switch, it will kill the kill switch in no time, they're not designed for winching current.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:00 pm
by chimpboy
sierrajim wrote:
chimpboy wrote:Sorry, I forgot to reply to this.

If you have a switch that is fully isolating the battery, then I would have thought the engine would stop and basically everything would shut down when you pull that switch.

So you wouldn't need a second switch to kill the motor.

What does the kill switch on the guard do at the moment?
Will still run on the alternator.
Hah, you're right. Duh. Of course it depends where you run the alternator to relative to where you put the isolator I guess.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:15 pm
by WICKED
tried it toda.... there was massive problems and smoke so i think its time for the pro's! :oops:

Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:32 pm
by GQ Bear
How about running kill switch off engine m'gt(???) fusible link. Would be lower current wiring than coil wire and would disable engine. Not sure if it would cause probs though. Hopefully somebody else could confirm or flame this suggestion

Re: Kill Switch on EFI motor

Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:39 pm
by GQ Bear
WICKED wrote:

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Is your airbox out of the picture or is that stainless tube your airbox? If so how have you fitted filter, etc?

Re: Kill Switch on EFI motor

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:36 am
by WICKED
GQ Bear wrote:
WICKED wrote:

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Is your airbox out of the picture or is that stainless tube your airbox? If so how have you fitted filter, etc?
that has all be replaced now (see below)

The 3in stainless run's into the airflow metre from a falcon and there is bout 2in of stainless out of that that the pod filter mounts too.


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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:07 pm
by F'n_Rover
you could also wire it up to the fuel pump.
I had an efi xf once, always left the keys in it. no one ever stole it. bastards!

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:27 pm
by MART
The only problem with a fuel pump cutoff is the pressure in the line will let the engine run for a little while , mine goes for 15-20 sec with fuel pump off , Cheers Paul.

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:55 am
by chimpboy
MART wrote:The only problem with a fuel pump cutoff is the pressure in the line will let the engine run for a little while , mine goes for 15-20 sec with fuel pump off , Cheers Paul.
I agree, and it's leaning out as well.

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:18 am
by WICKED
MART wrote:The only problem with a fuel pump cutoff is the pressure in the line will let the engine run for a little while , mine goes for 15-20 sec with fuel pump off , Cheers Paul.
Tried this but again i couldn't get it to work once it was wired but if i pull the wires by hand it worked. i think the alternator keeps it goin of some crap. and yer it took ages to die!

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:38 pm
by sierrajim
Racer Imports (bottom of their page)
http://www.racerimports.com.au/index.php?page=elc
RACI 1013 Combination Battery and Alternator Kill Switch

RACI 1013 Combination Battery and Alternator Kill Switch is designed to completely shut down the battery and charging system in an emergency situation.
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:55 am
by 1MadEngineer
or you could put in a 15c diode!!!

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 12:11 pm
by WICKED
An Auto Elec came out and did it yesterday, COST ME my left leg. Glad i did thought cause even he had a fair few problems with it! lol had to re-wire the battary isolation switch that i did months ago. :rofl: i hate electrical shit!

Ended up wiring the fuel pump and coil pack and isolating the battary and all that whohar to the Mines Spec switch from Hella that I bought from TJM CoopersPlains.

Its all done now and all is good (i hope) so yay!

Thanks all for the help and advice!