Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've tried Suzuki $821.65 and all the other local parts places but no one can supply me a WT right cv. I tried Suzisport too.
Anyone got a new cv they want to sell? I need it A.S.A.P.

want33s wrote:I've tried Suzuki $821.65 and all the other local parts places but no one can supply me a WT right cv. I tried Suzisport too.
Anyone got a new cv they want to sell? I need it A.S.A.P.

i have a second hand one!

$821 for a cv!

Hope i never break one of them!

u tried Mud4b? suziworx in qld?

These people assure me they have cvs for my 97 Sierra, but I haven't had the chance to call in and check, and I have a couple of second hand ones to use up first.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/DRIVELINE-SUPER-STORE

you could buy a whole zook for $821 & have a heap of spares left over LOL

I found "driveline superstore' yesterday but they haven't answered my email yet.
PM sent to Mud4B.
thanks

Going rate from wreckers in vic is $150 for 2nd hand.

Steve.

have you tried a drivesharft specialist? I've bought many from a place in wollongong. there supplier is in Qld some where cost around the 120 mark for cv only suit 410 I priced a genuine cv for jimny once and I was quoted around the $800 mark but it was the axle as well.

have you tried a drivesharft specialist? I've bought many from a place in wollongong. there supplier is in Qld some where cost around the 120 mark for cv only suit 410 I priced a genuine cv for jimny once and I was quoted around the $800 mark but it was the axle as well.

410 CV's are weaker. I have 413 NT cv's in my 1.0 axle - they're a straight swap.

WT RHS would be the hardest to get.

If the inner axle is still OK, you can get any WT or NT cv and swap the axles over. Warning though... they can be VERY HARD to get out.

also running a LHS CV on the RHS will reduce its strength as it will be worn in to suit driving forwards and running it on the wrong side will weaken it, but if you are stuck it's an option.

yes a cv from 410 is weaker, there also smaller and and wont fit onto a 413 axle as they have one more spline I was using them in my jimny as a 410 cv is almost identical to a jimny's. but thats not my point, the guy looked in his cv book it had a listing for 413 cv joint so I would think they would be similar in price daniels engineering is the place,
there is another guy in punchbowl in sydney his name is peter he will supply or build almost anything you want he just doesn't speak alot of english but if you can get over that hurdle, he's very good

gman79au wrote:yes a cv from 410 is weaker, there also smaller and and wont fit onto a 413 axle as they have one more spline I was using them in my jimny as a 410 cv is almost identical to a jimny's.

I'm confused about the spline difference? Three 1.0's in the club here in vic are running 1.3 CV's in 1.0 diffs with no side gear change - do you mean the the inner axle into the CV is different between 1.0 and 1.3, while the diff and stub axle are the same? If so, that makes sense, I've never had a 1.0 CV apart.

I think I would prefer a genuine used CV to an aftermaket CV, but maybe that's just me, but $120 is pretty cheap either way.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:
If the inner axle is still OK, you can get any WT or NT cv and swap the axles over. Warning though... they can be VERY HARD to get out.

How do you get the axle out of the cv? Are they pressed in or circlipped somehow? I know where theres a pair of 1.3 cv's but they have 1 litre axles fitted. Is it worth buying them and swapping axles?

they just have a spring clip on the inside, a hefty knock with a piece of pipe used like a slide hammer should drop the axle out but sometimes it takes much more than that. I haven't had much luck myself but I know it is possible.

Steve.

there is a circlip on the inside of the cv on the axle, normally a tap with a soft hammer with the axle in a vise tap the cv away from the axle. if the cv has been fitted for awhile what will happen is the circlip will wear the lead off the cv joint the lead is there so it will close the circlip when it is tapped off. If this has happened its staying on, there are pulling jigs available which specialists may have one specialist said there jig pulled the end of the axle off befor the cv let go.
I thought 1litre and 1.3 litre front axles were different? and so would the cv's too the spline on the cv end of the axle is one spline smaller on a 1 litre... is what Ive discovered over the years.

OK, call off the hounds... I have organised a cv thru Red_Zook, thanks mate. I also bought a pair of NEW cv's from 'Driveline Superstore' on ebay. Just got back from the bearing shop... $125 for wheel and kingpin bearings and hub seals !!

want33s wrote:OK, call off the hounds... I have organised a cv thru Red_Zook, thanks mate. I also bought a pair of NEW cv's from 'Driveline Superstore' on ebay. Just got back from the bearing shop... $125 for wheel and kingpin bearings and hub seals !!

i have to go get it for you tonight!!!
hope no one has taxed it!!!

I'm confused about the spline difference? Three 1.0's in the club here in vic are running 1.3 CV's in 1.0 diffs with no side gear change - do you mean the the inner axle into the CV is different between 1.0 and 1.3, while the diff and stub axle are the same? If so, that makes sense, I've never had a 1.0 CV apart.


Steve.[/quote]

yes the inner axle and cv inner are smaller on a 410 and jimny and side gears are the same WT 413 axle is abotu 25mm shorter than jimny too found that out the hard way.

Gwagensteve wrote:

gman79au wrote:yes a cv from 410 is weaker, there also smaller and and wont fit onto a 413 axle as they have one more spline I was using them in my jimny as a 410 cv is almost identical to a jimny's.

I'm confused about the spline difference? Three 1.0's in the club here in vic are running 1.3 CV's in 1.0 diffs with no side gear change - .

The 1 litre and the NT are the same width housing. You fit the complete assembly ( axle and CV ) to the 1 litre and then you are running 1.3 CV's and axles.

Here is a pic of the splines and axle size from a LJ80 axle and CV and a 1.3 axle and CV The LJ80 axle is the same size as the 1 litre

Thanks for the clarification - Like I said I have never had the inner axle apart- I just swapped the whole lot over for 1.3 NT- new there was no spline difference end to end on the assembly.

Steve.

I have paid $50 each for coily and WT cv's at Gold Coast 4wd Spares southport.

I got the cv off the shaft... Woohoo.. Plenty of tape around journal and a few good hammer blows and off it came in my hands. Now all I have to do is fit the new cv to shaft and fit new bearings & shells and reassemble the lot.
Then sit back and decide if I put bearings in the other side or go driving....

If you've lashed out and bought new ones maybe look at getting them treated. www.yuri4x4.com he could look at the inner axles if you wanted to as well.

Good idea but it is $150 per cv to heat treat plus $15 cleaning fee.
New cv cost $67 each.
Is it worth heat treating? How much stronger do they come out?

want33s wrote:Good idea but it is $150 per cv to heat treat plus $15 cleaning fee.
New cv cost $67 each.
Is it worth heat treating? How much stronger do they come out?

$15 cleaning IF they're dirty/greasy.


He reinforces them and treats them. Heaps stronger

Not being a sh!t Jim, but how much stronger?

It's like the birfield ring thing - they must be stronger, but is it 10%? is it 40%? are they stronger only when turned or when straight ahead?

I don't think there is enough data to invest in treated stock components unless it is a comp application where any advantage is worth investigating. Another example of this is cryo treatment. There is so much black magic in the marketing of cryo it's not funny. Metallugically, the effect is very small and only suied to a very small range of alloys under a very small range of circumstances, however, race teams do it because any legal advantage, regardless of how small or expensive, must be exploited, but for you or me... how woudl you know or tell if it helped?

Sierras often seem to break the inner cage before the outer. the only "fix" for this is with a TT doubletough axle. I don't believe anything else is worth the money, but that's just my opinion. Like I said, I;m not trying to offend anyone, just trying to add some comment.

Steve.

Not being a sh!t Jim, but how much stronger?

Without doing any form of testing no one could answer that. To me, weather it be for comp use of weekend use, if i can make it stronger without sacrificing (weight, operation whatever) i'll do it.

The Yuri CV gets a birfield type ring attached, then gets treated. We've got the GQ versions in the buggy and didn't bust one last round. Prior to that we had been breaking 1 or 2 MQ CV's each round.

I had Profields in my hilux, they came out of a mates hilux that had been well used. Same thing, standard CV, ring welded, treated. They're still here, not cracked and in good working order.

Yes double toughs will always be the better way to go beyond getting CV's treated, i've just about got my 30 spline Longfield inner and outers to go under mine. As a step in between there's no reason not to go for a treated CV though.

Perhaps talk to Damien at Yuri about treating the cage and star?

I had also heard that linishing off the sharp edges (before treating) inside the CV will also add strength. Could be BS i'm told the edges can make things bind easier causing stress.


Steve, you might be able to shed some light on this one way or the other?

whats a TT doubletough cv? all bar 1 cv that i've broken has been the cage and I ive always wondered why!!

gman79au wrote:whats a TT doubletough cv? all bar 1 cv that i've broken has been the cage and I ive always wondered why!!

Just over halfway down the page... http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samaxles.htm