Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all i was just wondering if there's anyone in south east Queensland who knows how to peg diffs, as i would like to do mine but haven't a clue where to start looking for parts etc etc.

any help greatly appreciated.

cheers

Busta-P

no one?............any advice from anywhere would be fantastic.

cheers

Busta-P

yea i did mine F&R what do you want to know ?
I've some templets and my mate has a cnc mill !
pm me your email ! I'm in bris southside

How are you mate, i've had this thread for ages, finally some one replied, i was wanting to know what materials did you use as the bump stop inside the diff? who did the welding on the outside of the diff (if any)? and what was the total cost?

cheers

Busta-P

ps pm on it's way.

Did most my self ,brother's got a good workshop !
A mate is a machinist and I brought a piece of
Phosphor Bronze which he milled up for me !
there is a blurb on the ashcroft site also theres a guy
Reddo on this forum who posted a page on how he went about it !
I've sent you some pics of what i did . As for price ???

Rehashing this from the depths as I am looking for someone in the area to peg both my diffs.

Just like to add the following;

I have sourced a kit from GBR, and should have it by next week.
Correspondance from Bill
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We actually Thrust Bolt diff housings. That is what we call it hear. I can supply the kit. We usually don't sell them because you need an end mill to bore a hole in the housing and you need to weld the bung into the housing. If you have access to this type of service it is a nice system.
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Basically I need to find a shop that is cabable of installing this kit.

Do you have a phone number for GBR Thanks..

Kirby wrote:Do you have a phone number for GBR Thanks..

Number can be found on the site
http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/

Hornsby Differential & gearbox(Sydney) did mine he does all our stuff

Mal

how much did they charge at hornsby to do it?

Firstly I should acknowledge that the Ashcroft Engineering web site provides some very useful pictures on this topic. Dave is great on info and this is one reason why we bought his 4.11s Laughing

The biggest issue is working out where to drill the holes through the casing and making sure they are at right angles to the axis of the pinion.

For this we used a tee square adjusted to match the radius of the crown wheel, that is the distance from the centre of the crown wheel to the centre of the flat that the bearing pad will eventually run on - effectively this is the space from the gear mounting hub/flange (just above the bolt holes) to the outside of the gear wheel. There is slight chamfer on the outermost part of the gear, and this forms the limit of the bearing surface available, ie between the gear mounting flange/hub and the chamfer - and is approx 10mm wide.

Remove the CW and sit the tee square on the top of the cast/machined CW bearing block closest to the CW- that is so it is effectively at the centre of the CW and mark the approx depth/location of the holes on the inside of the diff housing. We then referenced this location, adjusted for radius (using the radius of the CW, and located two points (ie, the holes for tapping and fitting the locating pegs) that are approx 40mm centre to centre apart on the outside of the housing.

There is a need to weld on some flat steel shaped to fit between the cast ribs on the outside of the housing in this place so it covers the marked holes allowing two threads to fit nicely approx 40 mm apart with a nut on top. As said, this plate is fitted and welded between the ribs that are cast on the the outside of the housing and when finished should leave a surface paralell to the pinion axis and at right angles to the CW bearing axis - we used a bit of modified 5mm angle and u can use the machined mounting surface for working out the right angles.

This is fiddly work and a die grinder helps a lot here. Before welding (using low hydrogen rods) pre-heating the housing to dull red in the weld area is essential otherwise the welds will fail due to shrinkage.

Once welded, locate the peg holes on the now 'flat' fillet of steel, drill pilot holes using a drill press taking care to ensure the holes are at 90degree to the plate and the pinion axis. Tap later to suit whatever thread you're using - we used Grade 5 15mm pre-threaded rod starting with 100mm. You cut this down to length later so that once inserted and adjusted, there's just enough height/thread left to allow a nyloc nut to be fitted.

It is necessary to machine down the ends of the thread to fit snugly into stopped holes in the bearing pad (as the thread is too large by itself to fit the bearing pad) or drill and insert suitable dowell/round bar which in turn will fit matching holes in the bearing pad to locate it and allow the thread to be turned to adjust the bearing pad against the CW. Dowells should protrude about 5-8mmmm from the shoulder of the thread, and the pad holes should be stopped at a depth that is suitable for good location and which allows easy rotation - around 5-8mm depending on the thickness of the pad.

The bearing pad was made from 25mm bronze rod, cut in half and shaped to the approx radius of the CW, trial and error is required to get the thickness and shape right to ensure it fits in between the CW and the housing - and u may need to grind a little of the housing away inside, at the narrow end to get the best fit - the pad ends up looking a bit like a banana - perhaps 60mm long and 12-15 mm wide and 8-10 mm or so thick. We found one diff allowed a thicker pad cause the inner casting was slightly different with more clearance to the CW. However, backlash adjustment may also impinge on the space ultimately abvailable and as said, u can grind away a bit of the housing inside if needed - it's 20mm thick here anyway.

We marked the locating holes by installing the CW and adjusting to its approx backlash, placing the shaped bronze pad on the CW with some sticky grease and carefully rotating it to the correct location and then inserted painted rods ends down the pilot holes. Once located, drill the pad to suit the machined or dowelled end of the thread. Cut the thread to length and cut slots in the outside end of the thread for a large screwdriver to fit to turn, and finally tap the holes right thru the welded plate and the diff housing proper to match the threaded bar.

Assemble and once adjusted, thread on some ny-loc nuts to suit the bar and tighten down hard. Rotate and make sure it does not foul. Don't adjust too tight though.

The only issue has been effectively sealing the threads and using silicone on the threads when assembling front diff worked well, but the rear has leaked a bit since. Not sure how to stop this yet but it is not too bad - one or two drip per journey!

I don't want to take out the offending thread as the pad may fall away from the CW, never to be located again. Oh well, it can wait until it's out again and after all, it is a Rover so Toyota and Nissan owners can point the finger at it and snigger wisely Razz .

Cost, threaded bar 30 dollars for a metre length, nyloc nuts to suit 5 dollars, 25mm dia bronze rod 30 dollars for 30cm length. Rest of materials were scrap and had the tap to suit already.

Time 2-4 hours installed the 4.11s at the same time.




btw, this is my father's car, and he uses my account from time to time... All i did was drink beer and tell him what i thought would work and what wouldn't when he was doing the job..seriously, having someone to bounce ideas off is great, and he worked it all out and did almost all the work himself, i just lifted the centers in lol

Disco dave loves it, and he's been going guns. Even with 4.11's and out to 160+, there is no whine.......