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valve seals

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:29 pm
by matthewK
is it possible to do valve seals without removing the head????


cheers

matt

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:33 pm
by plowy
it is possible if you have a good supply of air
plumb air into the cylinder threw the spark plug or glow plug
also make sure the cylinder your doing is a tdc as well

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:52 pm
by cooter
as above u will also need a special valve retainer remover see repco or auto 1 bout 40 bucks

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:32 pm
by matthewK
it was said to me but wasnt sure about it , no probs got good suply of air,
and i'll get the machinest to thread some pipe for me at work to fit the plug hole,

i intend to cheat and do all of them

still bit of smoke coming out so will do valve seals ,

done p-rings and honed the cylinders , big end bearings

but need the nissan in hurry so didnt get to do valve seals

anyways cheers guys weekend job

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:35 pm
by Stoive
yes, while the piston is down, remove the sparkplug, and push some thin cord / light rope into the sparkplug hole, with enough in there to fill the combustion chamber, wind the crank until the piston pushes the coiled rope up against the valves.

i then made myself a simple lever tool, that attatches to the head, and i am able to lever the valve springs down, and remove the collets / retainers with a magnet.

i have done it this was a fair few times without any troubles, as i can get my turbo manifold red hot, and the heat soaks into the head and eventually kills my no. 3 valve stem (closest one to the turbo)

let me know if you want some pics of the tool for an idea

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:38 am
by v840
Stoive wrote:yes, while the piston is down, remove the sparkplug, and push some thin cord / light rope into the sparkplug hole, with enough in there to fill the combustion chamber, wind the crank until the piston pushes the coiled rope up against the valves.

i then made myself a simple lever tool, that attatches to the head, and i am able to lever the valve springs down, and remove the collets / retainers with a magnet.

i have done it this was a fair few times without any troubles, as i can get my turbo manifold red hot, and the heat soaks into the head and eventually kills my no. 3 valve stem (closest one to the turbo)

let me know if you want some pics of the tool for an idea

Ive done mine using the same technique. A bit ghetto fab but it seems to do the job.

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:51 pm
by matthewK
i think it be great if i could get some pics of it give me an idea on to do it
]
cheers

matty

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 6:07 pm
by Ruggers
just get a bsp fitting to fitting to fit in the plug hole i like to put a ball valve on the end then a hose barb or air line fitting and plug in to the air, the watch the opposit cylinder to the one you want to do for the valves rocking like doing valve clearances then the turn the air on to the cylinder some times with a good seal it will push the piston down, then using a valve spring compresser compress the spring remove the collets and remove the spring, then carefully pry the seal off dont scatch the valve it will jsut chew though the seal if you do, the put some new oil on the new seal and slide it on with a deep socket that fits nice over the seal the replace the spring and collets and do the other the valve's for that cylinder then give a light tap to to make sure the collets are seated, and move on to the next cylinder in then firing order,
i have used a long tube socket with the sides cut out of it the get a magnet, In to push the valves down if you cant get a valve spring compressor hard work this way and best done with two people. hope this helps chris