Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Postin these on behalf of Duncan off the board ..............


MMMMMMM 5 Link

Excelent pics, shows great detail but could we have a few sizes
IE:
tube diameters, thread size, bolt size, overall lengths, & what are the bushes made from.

Also is it possiable to get a few closeups of the actual connection to the diff area and chassis areas.

From what I have seen of other 5 link setups the top bar is generally much shorter than the bottom bar ... like 2 > 3 inches shorter... was there any reason that the two bars look simmalar in lenght?

I'm looking at doing a 5 link to the MQ later this year using rover coils/shocks etc. I'll be making my own links tho.

Kingy

V8Patrol wrote:Excelent pics, shows great detail but could we have a few sizes
IE:
tube diameters, thread size, bolt size, overall lengths, & what are the bushes made from.

Also is it possiable to get a few closeups of the actual connection to the diff area and chassis areas.

From what I have seen of other 5 link setups the top bar is generally much shorter than the bottom bar ... like 2 > 3 inches shorter... was there any reason that the two bars look simmalar in lenght?

I'm looking at doing a 5 link to the MQ later this year using rover coils/shocks etc. I'll be making my own links tho.

Kingy

Kingy I'll leave it up to Duncan to answer all your Q,s on tube diameter etc and wat the bushes are made of etc as its his setup ........maybe he can get some more pics for ya cause he's in W.A and im in N.S.W my new digi's zoom aint quite good enough to reach W.A

My understaning with the link lenghts that they would always be very close to the same lenght so that the pinion angle doesnt change dramatically during the suspension movement cycle .............Normally wen u read any advertisement displayin 5 links they always (i think) say that they have equal upper and lower links as Sam (overkill) duz in his advertisements.............


Im also in the process (ie prob 12 months away) of gainin enough courage to build my own 5 link but im very shortly going to start on the rear 4 link

Im goin to be using as has Wendle has seamless tube 42od by 6.35 w/t and standard upper control arm bushes ........


Cheers

If the lengths of the upper and lower control arms are unequal, you will get binding similar to that which occurs with radius arm. When 1 wheel drops the unequal arms try to rotate the axle in the opposite direction to the other rising wheel, causing the bind and restricting wheel travel to what the deflection in the bushings and axle housing allows.

One critisism of the setup in those pics is the lack of twisting flex permitted by the mounting brackets and bushes. Look at the axle flex pics - notice the connecting bolts at the axle end stay parallel with the axle while those at the chassis stay parallel with the chassis. The control arms have to twist because the bushes can't flex. This is binding and could also cause the lock nut to loosen and lead to fatigue failure of the welds.

bush65, i get what your getting at, the side of the mounts on the diff and chassis, are to narrow to allow movement, and flex in the bushes, so it is puttin added stress onto the mounts and arm, which could lead to failure.

im not here to critisise, but just tryin to clear up what was said,

so we have a mount like the following with the O being the arm - |O|

but what we want would be more like |-O-| allowing more movement

but upon saying this, if the lock nuts on the arms are backed off while off road you will not get the arms binding as the thread will allow the rotation required.

Shawn

PS sorry for the crap pics, but its all i have to go off at this pressent time.

The tube i used is 1 inch shed 80 ,the bushes are replacment rear lower control arm bushes purchased at a local suspension shop.We have since started to tap the tube out to fit a 1 inch BSF thread no need to drill .This hole was taped 5 inches deep .The threaded bar is 1 inch BSF and we use a nut to lock the whole set up up on road .With this set up you can rotate the diff for your castor angle and also move the diff forward or backwards to suit youeself.All the mounts were made out of 1/4 plate and were bolted on in most cases.On the front mount i used the original mounting hole from the radius arm to locate the bracket.The rear mount bolts in in the area were your original arms went into the chassis.When driving of road i undo the locking nut on the threade section of the arm this allows for rotation and no presure or binding to be placed on the bushes its a cheap mans johnny joint but works well I got the idea after reading how Duncan Scott set up his 40 series rear four link .This set up has been in my car for 2 years with no problems and has had a lot of abuse .I originaly of set the front mount on the arms to lower it out of the way of the tierod but now running MQ steering thanks to Wendles ideas this is no longer needed